I think I’m done with my Sebenza

In my experience with CRK's the factory grinds aren't ideal for a work knife, don't give up OP, just get someone to re-profile it for you, anywhere from 16deg - 20deg inclusive, you find it a totally different knife,
 
I understand their philosophy behind convexing the edge, but honestly it doesn't do edge retention any favors. I sharpen my CRKs at 18 degrees per side. Once I scrub off that factory convex, it is indeed a new knife.
 
KrisNZ said:
In my experience with CRK's the factory grinds aren't ideal for a work knife, don't give up OP, just get someone to re-profile it for you, anywhere from 16deg - 20deg inclusive, you find it a totally different knife,
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I have sharpened it to that before I sent it off and still it just never got to where my other knives have
 
Not to beat a dead horse--and I truly hope you find the knife you like--but I just remembered something that might give you some perspective. I recently had a similar experience with not one, but two Benchmade knives in S90V. The first one was shaving sharp out of the box, but then I opened two Amazon boxes. I don't mean that I shredded the cardboard. I mean I just cut the tape. Then I cut up one of those flimsy plastic six pack holders that you find on a pack of Cokes. Not the heavy ones you get on craft beer. I'm talking about the little weak sort. After that my new knife in S90V would not cut anything. Turns out it was a burr. I could see it in the right light. I resharpened and deburred it. Now it performs like S90V should.
 
Yea it could be it. But lm sure someone else will bet more enjoyment out of it than me. My shaman, manix 2, dragonfly and mcbee will suffice
 
I didn’t read but the first post here. I’ll share my findings.
My first CRK was a carbon fiber large 21 from KA. I couldn’t get it sharp with my sharp maker which I had had for ten years at that point, so I had plenty of time on it. I eventually sold it because I couldn’t reprofile it or sharpen it. I miss that knife and wish I had kept it.
Fast forward to the last year and I bought two CRK. A large inkosi insingo and a spalted beech ladder Damascus. I threw them both on my wicked edge and put a V edge in it. 20 per side instead of the convex from the factory. Knives hold a great edge and perform awesome. Which is why I kick myself for selling my CF 21.
I say keep it and upgrade your sharpening equipment or have someone get it to where you can maintain it.
 
What's funny is my CRKs seem to sharpen better for me when I sharpen them broader than 20 degrees. I use a Triangle Sharpmaker and you're supposed to hold the blade vertical to the rod but I just never have much luck getting it sharp that way. Titling the blade slightly more perpendicular to the rod though gives me a much better edge.
 
SuzukiGS750EZ said:
I didn’t read but the first post here. I’ll share my findings.
My first CRK was a carbon fiber large 21 from KA. I couldn’t get it sharp with my sharp maker which I had had for ten years at that point, so I had plenty of time on it.
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I've made some regrettable moves myself. That factory edge was probably just a little more obtuse than 20 per side. The sharp maker has its uses but you've obviously upgraded.
 
Just to jump in here;
I recently sold my PJ 21 Insingo and edge holding was a major reason I did.
I also couldn't stand the thumb stud. I just couldn't get the blade
to deploy reliably every time.
I mean, isn't that one of the most important aspects of a good knife?
If I need to cut something NOW, I need the blade to deploy NOW!
I've owned perhaps 5 Sebenzas over the years; small, large, BG42, S35VN.
None of them held an edge that long.
Didn't matter if I sharpened them, or had them sharpened by Apostle P.
I'm not bashing the Sebenza or CRK at all. They're absolutely beautifully made and finished.
I'm sure a lot of you have had much better experiences with yours.
For me, my Spyderco Gayle Bradley 2 is a superior knife in almost all aspects.
It stays sharp forever; the M4 is amazing!
It's also much more comfortable in my hand and I love the way it looks.
YMMV
 
There are many knives that hold an edge better than a CRK, but the OP's story about losing the edge after a few small cuts seems to be rather an extreme case. Probably best explained by a defect.
 
Lenny said:
Just to jump in here;
I recently sold my PJ 21 Insingo and edge holding was a major reason I did.
I also couldn't stand the thumb stud. I just couldn't get the blade
to deploy reliably every time.
I mean, isn't that one of the most important aspects of a good knife?
If I need to cut something NOW, I need the blade to deploy NOW!
I've owned perhaps 5 Sebenzas over the years; small, large, BG42, S35VN.
None of them held an edge that long.
Didn't matter if I sharpened them, or had them sharpened by Apostle P.
I'm not bashing the Sebenza or CRK at all. They're absolutely beautifully made and finished.
I'm sure a lot of you have had much better experiences with yours.
For me, my Spyderco Gayle Bradley 2 is a superior knife in almost all aspects.
It stays sharp forever; the M4 is amazing!
It's also much more comfortable in my hand and I love the way it looks.
YMMV
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I also love the Bradley 2, it's my favoriteSpyderco. Sadly, I live where it's hot part of the year. I work outside and sweat too much. The Bradley just can't handle my wetness for more than an hour without going orange in places. I do love it in the cold months! I also break out the Maxamet when I stop the corroding my blades.

The s35 and damascus CRKs can easily take my sweat all day in the pocket. They can do all day river trips and I have even went in the ocean for up to an hour (rinsing on exit) and not had a speck of rust. A knife are version even spent the night in our pool (Oops, totally safe though...) and was good to go. Also, the grease doesn't wash out with just water, only the washing machine makes me relube.
 
sailfish said:
What's funny is my CRKs seem to sharpen better for me when I sharpen them broader than 20 degrees. I use a Triangle Sharpmaker and you're supposed to hold the blade vertical to the rod but I just never have much luck getting it sharp that way. Titling the blade slightly more perpendicular to the rod though gives me a much better edge.
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without doing it on purpose, keep the factory convex sharpening😁
 
I knew I wasn't alone! I recently purchased two (2021) S45VN - (L31 & S31) Sebenzas.

The knives had a keen factory edge that would dull after one strike through cardboard. I suspected there was a heat-treat or "burnt edge".

I sent both knives to the factory for a sharpening job, but I'm going to ask kindly for a re-blade. I'll keep you posted on how that goes! (OP, I DM'd you!)
 
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I no longer think it's reasonable to expect a quality cutting edge from the factory on a production knife. There is no substitute for an aftermarket edge. Factory edges are by necessity done quickly on a belt grinder. Burrs are common. Overheating is also a thing. This is not just anecdotal. There are numerous cut tests that bear this out. Don't take me wrong. I've had some half decent edges on a few knives, but sharpening at home always improves performance. My conclusion is that it's not fair to judge a knife or a steel based on out of the box performance.
 
Modernflame said:
I no longer think it's reasonable to expect a quality cutting edge from the factory on a production knife. There is no substitute for an aftermarket edge. Factory edges are by necessity done quickly on a belt grinder. Burrs are common. Overheating is also a thing. This is not just anecdotal. There are numerous cut tests that bear this out. Don't take me wrong. I've had some half decent edges on a few knives, but sharpening at home always improves performance. My conclusion is that it's not fair to judge a knife or a steel based on out of the box performance.
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if the edge has been burnt it will take more than one resharpening.
 
willy88 said:
if the edge has been burnt it will take more than one resharpening.
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True, but sending it back to the manufacturer will only exacerbate the problem. They will remove more steel than necessary and, remember, these are the folks who burned it in the first place. Burned edges are not extremely common, but I have GEC traditional that would not hold an edge until it had been sharpened four times.
 
I am an advocate of the freehand convex border on stone;)
Modernflame said:
True, but sending it back to the manufacturer will only exacerbate the problem. They will remove more steel than necessary and, remember, these are the folks who burned it in the first place. Burned edges are not extremely common, but I have GEC traditional that would not hold an edge until it had been sharpened four times.
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willy88 said:
I am an advocate of the freehand convex border on stone;)
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I hope we are not taking this thread too far afield, but I'd land on the other side of that argument. Quoting Dr. Vadim Kraichuck in his book called "Knife Deburring,"

Myth – convex grind is superior to hollow and flat. The reasoning is that the edge apex needs enough “meat” to last, and the edge will dull quicker where there is not enough metal behind it to give it strength. Truth - Wood splitting and bone chopping are the only tasks where the convex edge is advantageous. Other than for meat cleavers, splitting axes, machetes, larger camping knives and a few other tools used for wood splitting, the optimal edge is not convex. You don't split as well with a hollow grind because the hollow shape of the bevels "stop" the force of the stroke, and they also may lack the support required for an edge subjected to heavy impacts. For those kind of blades convexity is the choice, but for most other knife applications convex edge is less than ideal. Convex bevels predispose to knife slips in fine cutting. Yet “survivalists” would argue, that if left with only one knife, the convex edge is superior - if I were left to survive in the woods, I’d rather have a hatchet and a hollow-grind knife that is easier to maintain sharp in the field than convex.
 
Modernflame said:
I hope we are not taking this thread too far afield, but I'd land on the other side of that argument. Quoting Dr. Vadim Kraichuck in his book called "Knife Deburring,"

Myth – convex grind is superior to hollow and flat. The reasoning is that the edge apex needs enough “meat” to last, and the edge will dull quicker where there is not enough metal behind it to give it strength. Truth - Wood splitting and bone chopping are the only tasks where the convex edge is advantageous. Other than for meat cleavers, splitting axes, machetes, larger camping knives and a few other tools used for wood splitting, the optimal edge is not convex. You don't split as well with a hollow grind because the hollow shape of the bevels "stop" the force of the stroke, and they also may lack the support required for an edge subjected to heavy impacts. For those kind of blades convexity is the choice, but for most other knife applications convex edge is less than ideal. Convex bevels predispose to knife slips in fine cutting. Yet “survivalists” would argue, that if left with only one knife, the convex edge is superior - if I were left to survive in the woods, I’d rather have a hatchet and a hollow-grind knife that is easier to maintain sharp in the field than convex.
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it was not to go off topic. It's a way of telling you that I wouldn't send my knife to someone else sharpen. for the rest .... they are personal preferences, I don't mean better or worse.
 
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