I Want A New Grinder

Don't get the grizzly, I am struggling so hard. I even modified it to variable speed, but the platen sucks and it moves around too easily, it's just not built well enough. I have had so many problems with it I wish I would have saved up for a kmg or wilmont. Which is what I am doing now.
 
colu41 said:
Super newb question but. How far should the flat of the platen be from the outter edge of the wheels? Right now my platen is set up about an 1/8" inside the outter edge of the wheels. Should it be flush? Platen protrude slightly outside the wheels?
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Are you asking about the square edge of the wheel, or the periphery of the wheel?
I guess to just go ahead and answer both: You wheels and platen should both be the same width (2") and be in line with each other on each side.

Now, from the "front" of the platen, I think the flat plate should protrude out from the wheels a little bit, to keep the belt tight against the platen. I think mine is about 1/8" pround of the face of the wheels.
1/16" MIGHT be enough. Obviously, the farther out your platen is from the wheels, the more your belt is going to wear against it. especially the top and bottom corners.
 
As Knife says - the platen should be slightly "proud" of the wheels, maybe 1/16" to 1/8" or so. When grinding flat side of blade to platen for flattening, and as the blade is moved up 'n down the platen, the part of blade/tang that extends over end of platen doesn't drag on the wheels.

I usually use a straight edge against wheels, move platen out to straight edge, then move platen a tad more with same distance from wheel to straight edge on both wheels. Nothing measured, just eyeball it.

On the wheel width, sometimes those skateboard wheels might be a tad wider (or narrower) than the platen which is usually exactly 2". Don't worry, it works just fine - just center the platen to the wheels.

Ken H>
 
Ken H> said:
As Knife says - the platen should be slightly "proud" of the wheels, maybe 1/16" to 1/8" or so. When grinding flat side of blade to platen for flattening, and as the blade is moved up 'n down the platen, the part of blade/tang that extends over end of platen doesn't drag on the wheels.

I usually use a straight edge against wheels, move platen out to straight edge, then move platen a tad more with same distance from wheel to straight edge on both wheels. Nothing measured, just eyeball it.

On the wheel width, sometimes those skateboard wheels might be a tad wider (or narrower) than the platen which is usually exactly 2". Don't worry, it works just fine - just center the platen to the wheels.

Ken H>
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Thanks guys. A little more adjusting is all I need. Hope to have this finished by the weekend. We shall see.
Now I need a 10" wheel! Lol
 
Hey Ken. I can't seem to send a private message as I'm not a paying member (quite yet). I may do this soon. Anyways, I was thinking about the VFD you linked me. Since its on the way with the motor also that you linked. Does it involve any special wiring? I just read a thread on someone having problems wiring their VFD.
I'm in no means an electrician. Its one of my only DIYs that I never want to even mess with. My brother can easily do it for me but, I was just curious as to what it will need.
 
I can't do PM's either, but email is best of all. It pops up on my phone allowing me to see it right away...... most of time anyway. 99% of time phone is in the special phone case they sew into shirts.... They put one pocket on left side, and the right side pocket works just right for phone case {g}

You should be able to send email from my screen name -

Nope, there is no special wiring at all - just hook up some wires {g}. When you get the motor 'n VFD together you can wire those on the bench to test everything. We can get on the photo together if needed, OR use a screen share program so we'll be looking at the same computer screen, so when I point to a wire, you can actually see that wire. I do that with my granddaughter sometimes with math problems.

Ken >
 
Ken H> said:
I can't do PM's either, but email is best of all. It pops up on my phone allowing me to see it right away...... most of time anyway. 99% of time phone is in the special phone case they sew into shirts.... They put one pocket on left side, and the right side pocket works just right for phone case {g}

You should be able to send email from my screen name -

Nope, there is no special wiring at all - just hook up some wires {g}. When you get the motor 'n VFD together you can wire those on the bench to test everything. We can get on the photo together if needed, OR use a screen share program so we'll be looking at the same computer screen, so when I point to a wire, you can actually see that wire. I do that with my granddaughter sometimes with math problems.

Ken >
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Wow that would be cool! I just got most of the frame welded up tonight. Spent most the time fixing the feed wire. Kept bunching up on the feed wheel. But just a bit left. Next is the tracking hinge, then waiting on drive wheel, motor, and vfd to come in!! I feel like a little kid right now lol.
 
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Soon!!! Its rough right now but I hope to complete the frame and tracking hinge tonight.
 
Oh man I made some progress tonight!!!! I want to post a pic but I sort of want to wait till its all ready to go...:o Tracking system is done. Just waiting on my motor and Vfd to come in! Grind a few welds down and paint.
 
Another question Ken. That motor has a 1.88" shaft. That will be fine for the 2" wide aluminum drive wheel? It's going to hang off slightly.
 
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bighat10 said:
Ah ok, that makes sense.
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I did a lot of searching and asked a lot of questions and theres no cheaper way of going variable speed. That switch may work for a little bit but, from everything I've read either that switch, or your motor will burn up quick.
 
colu41 said:
Another question Ken. That motor has a 1.88" shaft. That will be fine for the 2" wide aluminum drive wheel? It's going to hang off slightly.
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Not a problem at all with the pulley hanging over a bit. My motor shaft is only a tad over 1-1/4" long due to 56C mounting bracket space. If you've only got 1/2" of pulley hanging over, I don't think you'll ever have a problem. BUT - you do need to be sure the set screw for drive wheel is going to clamp very solid on the motor shaft.

Ken
 
Ken H> said:
Not a problem at all with the pulley hanging over a bit. My motor shaft is only a tad over 1-1/4" long due to 56C mounting bracket space. If you've only got 1/2" of pulley hanging over, I don't think you'll ever have a problem. BUT - you do need to be sure the set screw for drive wheel is going to clamp very solid on the motor shaft.

Ken
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Thats good to hear. Got my motor in today. Welded the frame to the base. Nearly completed! Btw, do you have a diagram for how the vfd is wired to the motor? No instructions came with the motor. Not sure about the VFD as it hasn't come yet.
 
All depending on the motor and the Tee leads in the pecker head. Take a look at the nameplate and it should have a good diagram how how to wire the motor for low voltage which is 240 (220)VAC. High voltage is most likely 480VAC. Look at the Tee leads (motor leads) and there should be 9 of the wires hanging there, with T1 thru T9.

If you will send me a email, I'll send the manual as an attachment so you can be looking it over.

Ken H>
 
9 days ago I bought some steel.....
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Measuring, drilling, filing....more measuring. More spacers!!!
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Some crappy welding....... (this is literally my the 3rd time in my life I've welded. Btw I'm 28 years old next week, time to grow up...:cool:
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Some even more crappy welding....
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Now this is today. Holy Crap! I tried something I never would have thought of and it worked! Thanks to everyone who helped me do this. Special thanks to Ken H. Extremely helpful. Thanks so much.
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Just waiting on my VFD to come in, wire it up and test her out. I'm sure I will have to tweak a few things but thats fine. I'm surprised I got this far! :)

(Gun in background is a toy):D Real ones are inside.
 
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