I want to double edge the tip of my Leek...(cause I'm bored)

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Oct 14, 2006
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Can I do it with any household items or a kitchen sharpener?

My brother has something similar to this somewhere (his is yellow, and a different brand):

http://www.accusharp.com/


Can I run it through there and put an edge on it, or will I need a real sharpener system (I'm thinking of getting a whetstone... would that work?)?
 
Devices like that are less then desireable. Get a whetstone or even better an actual knife sharpening system. There are many to choose from that are easy to use. Use the search function and you will find plenty of good ideas.
 
you could get a double sided Norton stone from the hardware store for $6-8. A set of Spyderco Profiles for less than $35, and you can remove a good bit of metal with the coarse side of the stone, and make a pretty fine edge with the white Profile.

Of course, there's also those DMT double sided hones I linked you to before, about $36, but I recall you were gonna order from some place that didn't sell them.
 
hardheart said:
you could get a double sided Norton stone from the hardware store for $6-8. A set of Spyderco Profiles for less than $35, and you can remove a good bit of metal with the coarse side of the stone, and make a pretty fine edge with the white Profile.

Of course, there's also those DMT double sided hones I linked you to before, about $36, but I recall you were gonna order from some place that didn't sell them.
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Yeah, I was gonna order from knifeworks, but they never got back to me on an engraving email, and now I have enough money to buy a balisong instead >_< so I'm going to NewGraham to order, do they have it (and can it be used for this)?
 
knivesplus is the only online knife store I know of selling the double sided ones. You'd want an X-coarse or XX-coarse one for a lot of metal removal anyway. DMTs are good products, you just need the right grit for the job.

For around $45, a sharpmaker is good also, if you need help holding a consistent angle. But it uses the same ceramics as the Profiles, which is too fine to reshape a damaged edge or cut a new one, really more for maintaining good edges-and just at the 2 preset angles.

Unless you can triple your sharpener budget and get an Edge Pro, systems are going to limit the angles you can sharpen at.
 
hardheart said:
knivesplus is the only online knife store I know of selling the double sided ones. You'd want an X-coarse or XX-coarse one for a lot of metal removal anyway. DMTs are good products, you just need the right grit for the job.

For around $45, a sharpmaker is good also, if you need help holding a consistent angle. But it uses the same ceramics as the Profiles, which is too fine to reshape a damaged edge or cut a new one, really more for maintaining good edges-and just at the 2 preset angles.

Unless you can triple your sharpener budget and get an Edge Pro, systems are going to limit the angles you can sharpen at.
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http://newgraham.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=dmt

Would any of those work for regular sharpening and putting an edge on the unsharpened side of my Leek (It's already pretty thin, so I don't think it would take much more to make it sharp)?


P.S. If anyone is wondering I want to make it double edged on the tip because the tip kind of rounds easily, so it doesn't pierce stuff well (and I'm really bored).
 
Do you have a file? the 440A of the Leek would probably be cut with a file pretty easy, for what you want to do. Those interrupted surface hones work, but you can sometimes snag the tip of your knife in one of the holes, it's why I prefer the dia-sharps.

check out the Aligner if you want a system, there's cheaper places than this link, and New Graham will order just about anything you want to boot, but I like knifecenter's product pages and pics.
http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=DMTADELUXE
 
...maybe :) Honestly, I haven't used the aligner kit, but it has gotten good posts on Bladeforums, and I do like their other products (serrated sharpener, fine sharpening steel, fine & XX coarse dia-sharp, coarse/fine dia-fold) It has 7 angles, so you get more choice than the Lansky, and you can use the clamp with a benchstone, so it's a little like the Razor Edge clamp (check it out http://beast.voltztech.com/~razored...id=63&osCsid=cf697ca56b6ad24910acc845f954a3de ). Only thing is that it's plastic, so you'd need to be careful with it.
 
I'm really liking my DMT benchstones (got the 25 micron mesh and 9 micro mesh interrupted surface stones). I kind fo with I would have went with some that had the little continuous diamond surface as I find I'm prone to going back to the washita or carborundum still when a tip needs like of attention. But they really work great, and even the Fine (25 micron, 600 grit) cuts very fast with almost no pressure. But they do have a completely different feel than a natural stone; though I wouldn't say it justifies the use of an aligner kit if you know what your doing.
 
You can always get a real "meateater" to make an edge. I have used this and a belt sander at work to reprofile some broken blade tips for guys at work.

severtech2.jpg
 
How much does something like that cost... I'm on some-what of a budget ($40 at the most pluzz... unless something good is $50)!
 
Well, that double-sided thing you showed me before, will it do what I want it to (is that ones sharpening type freehand)?

Will I still have to file it down so I can put an edge on it?
 
yeah, it's freehanding anytime you don't have something that holds either the sharpener or blade at the edge angle for you. There's 3 combos-extra coarse/coarse, coarse/fine, and fine/extra fine http://www.knivesplus.com/DMT-Knife-Sharpener-Dia-Sharp.HTML . The quickest cutter would be the extra coarse (best of the 3 to sharpen your tip), but then you wouldn't use that a lot and the coarse side would be the finest you have. The coarse/fine is a good combo, able to repair a little damage and thin a bevel with a little time, and the fine side will get you a decently smooth edge for regular use. The fine/extra fine will give you the smoothest finish, but it would be very slow in grinding out chips or thinning out thick edges.

You could get by with a file for the rough cutting on a 440A Leek, but it wouldn't do you much good on S30V or other steels with higher wear resistance. It depends on what you have now, and how much more sharpening stuff you plan to buy.

here's an abrasive grit chart, if you didn't see it in the other link
http://users.ameritech.net/knives/grits.htm

The specific types aren't too important right now, but it does show the general range of abrasives, and you can see the specific numbers for the diamonds on there. I have essentially 10 steps in micron size with my sharpening gear, from about 260 down to 1/2 a micron, and I have tried several different things.

Diamond is gonna be your fastest option, and it's also very easy to clean and use, needing only a little water.
 
hardheart said:
yeah, it's freehanding anytime you don't have something that holds either the sharpener or blade at the edge angle for you. There's 3 combos-extra coarse/coarse, coarse/fine, and fine/extra fine http://www.knivesplus.com/DMT-Knife-Sharpener-Dia-Sharp.HTML . The quickest cutter would be the extra coarse (best of the 3 to sharpen your tip), but then you wouldn't use that a lot and the coarse side would be the finest you have. The coarse/fine is a good combo, able to repair a little damage and thin a bevel with a little time, and the fine side will get you a decently smooth edge for regular use. The fine/extra fine will give you the smoothest finish, but it would be very slow in grinding out chips or thinning out thick edges.

You could get by with a file for the rough cutting on a 440A Leek, but it wouldn't do you much good on S30V or other steels with higher wear resistance. It depends on what you have now, and how much more sharpening stuff you plan to buy.

here's an abrasive grit chart, if you didn't see it in the other link
http://users.ameritech.net/knives/grits.htm

The specific types aren't too important right now, but it does show the general range of abrasives, and you can see the specific numbers for the diamonds on there. I have essentially 10 steps in micron size with my sharpening gear, from about 260 down to 1/2 a micron, and I have tried several different things.

Diamond is gonna be your fastest option, and it's also very easy to clean and use, needing only a little water.
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So then I should go with the Extra Coarse/Coarse, and that will take care of everything I need?
 
it's the fastest, and the coarse finish is usable. I would recommend getting something finer to go along with it when you get some extra money, but for your double edge project this should work.
 
hardheart said:
it's the fastest, and the coarse finish is usable. I would recommend getting something finer to go along with it when you get some extra money, but for your double edge project this should work.
Click to expand...

Well I notice they have single-sided ones, would it be more cost effective to get a single Extra Coarse and a Fine/Extra Fine?
 
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