I was just told a skeletonized tang has more strength. Is that true?

letsurf said:
OK you take your Mora 511 and I'll take my Mora Garberg and we'll see who has more peace of mind then :rolleyes:
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Mora is good stuff. Does everything you need to do out there and has always done so. I don't care much about the current production but I bet all the models are reliable. I'm still stuck with my Classic Originals N°1 and N°2. They never failed to give me total peace of mind and will probably do so for the decades to come.
 
letsurf said:
I know nothing about their business practices and didn't know they were removed from the forum. I just like their designs and apparently they have some pretty good steel too.



Thanks for the laugh :D
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The steel is good as far as I know, but they are one of many in the game that have good steel. Apologies for assuming you knew of their forum here being closed :oops: your join date led me to believe you were more familiar with the history.


Here's a thread on the topic of survive!

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/survive-knives-forum-should-be-closed.1601185/
 
If you want similar steel to survive knives, look at carothers knives. They are well made, well designed and use the delta 3v heat treat protocol. Can't recommend them enough. I have a HDFK, heavy duty field knife, and it is one of the best blades I've ever had.
 
unwisefool said:
If you want similar steel to survive knives, look at carothers knives. They are well made, well designed and use the delta 3v heat treat protocol. Can't recommend them enough. I have a HDFK, heavy duty field knife, and it is one of the best blades I've ever had.
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I think you or someone else mentioned them before and I hadn't heard about them so thanks for the info.
 
shinyedges said:
Here's a thread on the topic of survive!

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/survive-knives-forum-should-be-closed.1601185/
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Just got done reading the entire thread, thanks for the enlightenment =) I had no idea it was that bad. I just recently started shopping for another mid sized knife after being out of the game for years. What's funny is I actually wrote them to see if their comment on filling back orders from 2015 was a misprint on their website. I guess not. As a business owner myself it really saddens me to see such potential flushed down the toilet. Sounds like Guy needs to focus on making knives and let someone else run the business side of things.
 
I know I’m reviving a dead thread here, but I just need to quiet my own paranoia. I purchased an HZT 004 from Williams blade design and I believe they also have a skeletonized tang. Daniel Winkler makes the knives for them from 80crv2 steel. Would I be right in assuming that removing steel from a knife’s tang doesn’t improve strength, but it isn’t enough to matter? I don’t plan on doing anything crazy with this knife, it will probably get strapped to my war belt and that will be it, but I like knowing my tools can take terrible abuse if need be, even though said abuse would probably break my heart if I had to do it.
 
shawn 7.5 said:
I know I’m reviving a dead thread here, but I just need to quiet my own paranoia. I purchased an HZT 004 from Williams blade design and I believe they also have a skeletonized tang. Daniel Winkler makes the knives for them from 80crv2 steel. Would I be right in assuming that removing steel from a knife’s tang doesn’t improve strength, but it isn’t enough to matter? I don’t plan on doing anything crazy with this knife, it will probably get strapped to my war belt and that will be it, but I like knowing my tools can take terrible abuse if need be, even though said abuse would probably break my heart if I had to do it.
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The way I see it, the only way to know for sure if a knife can withstand some form of abuse is to actually abuse the knife in that way and find out.

People could tell you "Don't worry about it. That knife can take anything you throw at it", but how would you know for sure?

Even two exact model knives from the same maker can have differences. One could have a flaw in the steel, or a bad heat treat, etc.

Personally, if I thought, for example, that my life might depend on using a knife as a prybar someday, and I bought it with that purpose in mind, I wouldn't want to wait for that day to find out. I'd do some prying with it. And if it broke, then I'd know it wasn't the right knife for the task. And I'd be glad I didn't find out the hard way when I really needed it.

There's no way to know for sure what a knife can take until you put it to the test.
 
shawn 7.5 said:
I know I’m reviving a dead thread here, but I just need to quiet my own paranoia. I purchased an HZT 004 from Williams blade design and I believe they also have a skeletonized tang. Daniel Winkler makes the knives for them from 80crv2 steel. Would I be right in assuming that removing steel from a knife’s tang doesn’t improve strength, but it isn’t enough to matter? I don’t plan on doing anything crazy with this knife, it will probably get strapped to my war belt and that will be it, but I like knowing my tools can take terrible abuse if need be, even though said abuse would probably break my heart if I had to do it.
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If I wanted my knife to handle anything, that would not be the knife I would buy
 
shawn 7.5 said:
Would I be right in assuming that removing steel from a knife’s tang doesn’t improve strength, but it isn’t enough to matter?
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It depends on the shapes of the void areas, and worst case it would depend on the steel itself for instance its notch sensitivity.
 
bdmicarta said:
It depends on the shapes of the void areas, and worst case it would depend on the steel itself for instance its notch sensitivity.
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I’m afraid I don’t know the shape of the void areas in this particular knife. The handle scales are pinned on. Would you mind explaining to me what notch sensitivity is? Here is a link to the knife.

williamsbladedesign.com

HZT 004 | Hira Zukuri Tanto 6.5"

Our full sized fixed blade is finally back. Designed for the rigors of modern combat while remaining true to classical design concepts, this blade excels at both slashing and penetration. The combination of 80CrV2 high-carbon steel, and Daniel Winkler's expert craftsmanship, make for a true...
williamsbladedesign.com
 
I remember a long time ago I asked on the Spyderco forum about the partial tang of the Moran. They said pretty much the same thing. The odd shape of the tang with the molded handle made for a "stronger" tang. 🤷‍♂️
 
shawn 7.5 said:
I know I’m reviving a dead thread here, but I just need to quiet my own paranoia. I purchased an HZT 004 from Williams blade design and I believe they also have a skeletonized tang. Daniel Winkler makes the knives for them from 80crv2 steel. Would I be right in assuming that removing steel from a knife’s tang doesn’t improve strength, but it isn’t enough to matter? I don’t plan on doing anything crazy with this knife, it will probably get strapped to my war belt and that will be it, but I like knowing my tools can take terrible abuse if need be, even though said abuse would probably break my heart if I had to do it.
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If the Tang skeleton is "see through", meaning material is removed via straight holes, strength is weakened, assuming the tang is thin relative to its area.

If you can not see through the skeleton, depending on the shapes (a honeycomb should be great) and the depth of the removal, strength might be increased (as for instance in a Busse TGULB or the typical lightened / hollowed out folder Ti scale).

Speaking for the Tang by itself. It the Tang see through skeleton is sandwiched between steel, for instance, it's a different story.
 
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unwisefool said:
If I wanted my knife to handle anything, that would not be the knife I would buy
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Agreed. That’s a people opener, and that’s about it.

I wouldn’t abuse that thing at all if I could help it, but if he had to I’m pretty sure it would take a lot - short of just clamping it in a vise and yanking on it. Mr. Winkler makes a fine, stout knife.
 
AntDog said:
Agreed. That’s a people opener, and that’s about it.

I wouldn’t abuse that thing at all if I could help it, but if you had to I’m pretty sure it would take it - short of just clamping it in a vise and yanking on it. Mr. Winkler makes a fine, stout knife.
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Obviously I’m not putting it in a vise. 😂 If I’m being specific I guess batoning, but I have my falkniven for that. As I said, I don’t like beating on my knives, I just like the reassurance of knowing they could take it if needed, though it most likely won’t need it.
 
shawn 7.5 said:
Obviously I’m not putting it in a vise. 😂 If I’m being specific I guess batoning, but I have my falkniven for that. As I said, I don’t like beating on my knives, I just like the reassurance of knowing they could take it if needed, though it most likely won’t need it.
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I would not baton that. You’re likely to break that pointy tip off. That’s more of a purpose driven knife than a “do it all” solution.

Stick to that Fallkniven for the batoning and woods work.

I use something like this for that and have no worries:

 
AntDog said:
I would not baton that. You’re likely to break that pointy tip off. That’s more of a purpose driven knife than a “do it all” solution.

Stick to that Fallkniven for the batoning and woods work.
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You’re right on that count. But based on your answer, the weakness would be the tip rather than the tang, correct?
 
shawn 7.5 said:
You’re right on that count. But based on your answer, the weakness would be the tip rather than the tang, correct?
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Pretty much. I wouldn’t worry about a full tang sandwiched between micarta slabs snapping, even if skeletonized.
 
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