if you could only have one sharpening stone what would it be?

baldegale said:
ive had this pm2 for about 2-3 years and never taken it apart or sharpened it and aside from the two chips its still relatively sharp for that long (unbelievable) but now that i have the money im getting all the tools (torx set, nano oil, maybe some frog lube, blue loctite and getting into sharpening) just dont/didnt even know where to begin with the sharpening aspects
Click to expand...
Avoid nano oil. It's just really expensive mineral oil. Your just wasting money. Especially when your trying to save. Don't fall for the snake oil marketing and the nick Shabazz marketing.
 
Mo2 said:
Avoid nano oil. It's just really expensive mineral oil. Your just wasting money. Especially when your trying to save. Don't fall for the snake oil marketing and the nick Shabazz marketing.
Click to expand...
im actually getting the daiwa reel oil, its basically the same thing and only $6. i just said nano oil bc i didn’t remember the name at the time!
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
For S30V in particular, a diamond hone in the 325-600 range (like DMT Coarse/Fine) makes it no-brainer easy.

I like using other stones for other, less wear-resistant steels. But if one is really limiting the choice to just one hone for everything, including S30V and other wear-resistant steels, a diamond hone makes it worry-free across the board.
Click to expand...
continuous or interrupted stones? right now im kinda thinking going with the arctic fox.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mo2
while im here does anyone have a good food grade oil to protect the blade? a lot of people have said mineral oil on past threads but at the same time a lot of people say it gets gummy
 
baldegale said:
continuous or interrupted stones? right now im kinda thinking going with the arctic fox.
Click to expand...

Either will work well. I use both interchangeably. It's basically a personal preference; some aren't comfortable with sharpening tips of blades on the interrupted surface. But that's basically a technique issue, as a tip-trailing stroke will eliminate the risk of the tip 'digging into' the holes on the interrupted surface hones.
 
baldegale said:
while im here does anyone have a good food grade oil to protect the blade? a lot of people have said mineral oil on past threads but at the same time a lot of people say it gets gummy
Click to expand...

Something's wrong, if the oil is getting 'gummy'. Either there's some other ingredient mucking up the mix, or dirt/grime is getting into it. Also, if one is using way too much oil, that'll collect a lot more dirt, etc., which will then make a mess of things. This will be true of any oils used, and not just mineral oil. A drop or two of mineral oil on the blade, then wiped clean of any excess, will be plenty enough to protect it. Keeping the blade clean & dry after each use will accomplish 99% of the goal, in preventing corrosion. Especially with stainless steels like the ones mentioned (S30V, CPM-154).
 
Last edited:
For my woodworking blades I usually use Paul sellers trick of the rag in a can,
I use with 3 in 1 oil, but it should work equally well with a food safe oil,
It’s a great way of putting only the necessary coating without excess
 
Continuous surface is easier to learn without having to be careful with tips digging into holes, once proficient, adding the care as mentioned by David can be done on interrupted surface.

Baby oil, used on them, must be safe :)
I use it as it’s hard finding mineral oil around here.
 
Last edited:
No doubt for me, I've experimented a lot over the years on a wide variety of steels.

Eze Lap Coarse diamond, continuous. It covers more useful areas than anything else I've experienced. Everything else starts entering the specialty category.
 
if it had to be only one ... one option would be the Articfox combo as mentioned ...

I may lean towards a DMT Diafold or larger benchstone come in coarse and fine ... ... the larger benchstone probably to have a bigger stone to cover all sizes.

a Norton combo could also cover most steels and types of knives.
 
Last edited:
I didn't answer this right away and gave it some thought. I would say a good one stone stand alone is the Norton JUM-3. A crystolon coarse / fine stone. This is my workhorse and go to stone with any steel. Plus, I've found it offers good economy. I would add that the Ace Hardware stone a coarse / fine crystolon is also a fine choice. The coarse is very coarse and the fine side not very fine, more like a medium but it is very economical compared to anything and comes in 2X8" size. This would cover you for sharpening your knives and mother in laws kitchen knives. DM
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top