- Joined
- Oct 17, 2000
- Messages
- 598
strider or busse
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
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If you had to go into combat...
- Thread starter Son Tao
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 9, 1999
- Messages
- 3,316
Since any knife taken into a combat zone is gonna see 95-99% utility action as opposed to the "save yer arse" kind of action, I'd be taking my Busse Basic 7. Excellent whacking, chopping and if need be, prying knife. Will also fill the role of separating the enemy's flesh.
Other choices would be something big and nasty from Jerry Hossom in 3V, Next Generation D-2 KABAR, CS SRK, CS Trailmaster, Dozier Bowie, Fallkniven A1 or maybe a Randall Model 1.
Lots of good stuff to choose from out there, some pricier than others, but all capable of filling the need for a combat zone cutter.
To those of you getting in line to join the armed forces, I salute You and God Bless all of you!!
Other choices would be something big and nasty from Jerry Hossom in 3V, Next Generation D-2 KABAR, CS SRK, CS Trailmaster, Dozier Bowie, Fallkniven A1 or maybe a Randall Model 1.
Lots of good stuff to choose from out there, some pricier than others, but all capable of filling the need for a combat zone cutter.
To those of you getting in line to join the armed forces, I salute You and God Bless all of you!!
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2000
- Messages
- 51
Has anybody bought from OneStopKnifeShop.com? I'm leaning towards a Busse Combat Basic #7 if they have one in stock and can get it to me within a week.
A big Hossom knife is definitely in my future. Unfortunately, I can't handle a 3 month wait at this time. Mr. Hossom is a true gentleman and straight shooter. It was a pleasure talking to him on the phone. He tried above and beyond to help me out under abnormal circumstances. Thanks Jerry.
Lastly, I also got in contact with Matt Lamey who might be able to help me out. Knock on wood!
A big Hossom knife is definitely in my future. Unfortunately, I can't handle a 3 month wait at this time. Mr. Hossom is a true gentleman and straight shooter. It was a pleasure talking to him on the phone. He tried above and beyond to help me out under abnormal circumstances. Thanks Jerry.
Lastly, I also got in contact with Matt Lamey who might be able to help me out. Knock on wood!
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 3,148
Son,
Nice to see you here.
Matt can fix you up just right, however of great importance to a dirt-dart or ground-pounder is a good sheath.
Kydex, or heavy duty nylon with a kydex stiffener is the most durable, leather is a distant second from most makers.
Busse, Becker, Strider, Mad Dog, all have some good nylon or kydex sheathware. So does some of the K-Bar high end models.
Eagle Industries makes a fine nylon sheath with kydex liner that will fit a K-BAR sized knife.
For leather, Randall knives (Sullivan's leather) and Kenny Rowe
make excellent sheaths.
The last thing you want is a blade poking you in the leg because of a bad sheath. If money was no object, I would probably go with a combat fighter from Walter Brend in D-2 or 3V. D-2 is more corrosion resistant (prob. not a factor in the Middle East), 3V is tougher and will hold an edge better.
RJ Martin also builds a fine heavy combat blade.
On a budget knives from Mad Dog, Busse, Trace Rinaldi, Matt Lamey, and even some production stuff like the Busse Basic 7, CS SRK, Recon tanto, Recon Scout, Camillus CQB will make fine companion blades.
If you like paracord wrapped sharp prybars, Strider knives are very tough.
You need a tool more than a weapon. Sheath security is more important than a quick draw. Low-maintenence (Quality Stainless Steel, semi-stainless (D-2, 3V) or coated carbon steel) is also something to keep in mind.
Personally, as you have already contacted him, I would have Matt Lamey make a knife similar to shape ofthe 7.5" Fisk Military with a light swedge on -one side-of the blade with a G-10 or micarta handle.You want about .020" thick edge of D-2 or 3V. Satin finished with a bead blasted handle/guard and a thong hole. I would then have Julie Marx checker the handle about 18 LPI (rounded diamonds). I would then have a good kydex setup made by Bob Bailey or On-Scene Tactical, Blade-Tech or Edgeworks. In the kydex sheath I would have a pouch for a good multitool and a flat medium diamond hone epoxied to the backside of the sheath.
Good Luck.
Nice to see you here.
Matt can fix you up just right, however of great importance to a dirt-dart or ground-pounder is a good sheath.
Kydex, or heavy duty nylon with a kydex stiffener is the most durable, leather is a distant second from most makers.
Busse, Becker, Strider, Mad Dog, all have some good nylon or kydex sheathware. So does some of the K-Bar high end models.
Eagle Industries makes a fine nylon sheath with kydex liner that will fit a K-BAR sized knife.
For leather, Randall knives (Sullivan's leather) and Kenny Rowe
make excellent sheaths.
The last thing you want is a blade poking you in the leg because of a bad sheath. If money was no object, I would probably go with a combat fighter from Walter Brend in D-2 or 3V. D-2 is more corrosion resistant (prob. not a factor in the Middle East), 3V is tougher and will hold an edge better.
RJ Martin also builds a fine heavy combat blade.
On a budget knives from Mad Dog, Busse, Trace Rinaldi, Matt Lamey, and even some production stuff like the Busse Basic 7, CS SRK, Recon tanto, Recon Scout, Camillus CQB will make fine companion blades.
If you like paracord wrapped sharp prybars, Strider knives are very tough.
You need a tool more than a weapon. Sheath security is more important than a quick draw. Low-maintenence (Quality Stainless Steel, semi-stainless (D-2, 3V) or coated carbon steel) is also something to keep in mind.
Personally, as you have already contacted him, I would have Matt Lamey make a knife similar to shape ofthe 7.5" Fisk Military with a light swedge on -one side-of the blade with a G-10 or micarta handle.You want about .020" thick edge of D-2 or 3V. Satin finished with a bead blasted handle/guard and a thong hole. I would then have Julie Marx checker the handle about 18 LPI (rounded diamonds). I would then have a good kydex setup made by Bob Bailey or On-Scene Tactical, Blade-Tech or Edgeworks. In the kydex sheath I would have a pouch for a good multitool and a flat medium diamond hone epoxied to the backside of the sheath.
Good Luck.
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2000
- Messages
- 51
Thanks Anthony! The sheath was on the back burner until you brought it up. I am leaning towards a quality Kydex sheath. Less maintanence compared to leather
My problem is time. I need the knife before Oct. 5th. Worse case scenerio, if I can't get a maker to finish a knife and ship it to me before that date, I can go with one of the Busse Basic models.
Thanks y'all for the valuable input!
My problem is time. I need the knife before Oct. 5th. Worse case scenerio, if I can't get a maker to finish a knife and ship it to me before that date, I can go with one of the Busse Basic models.
Thanks y'all for the valuable input!
I think that a SwissTool would probably be the most useful amd would be my first choice, to which I would add a Busse #7 as my primary blade and a CRK Sebenza for a precise cutting tool. I would have to make room for my Spyderco 204 to keep them all sharp.
If I thought that there was a good possiblity that I'd have to enter in to H2H with a knife I would choose the Maddog Panther, probably the finest pure fighter made.
Stay sharp,
Chad
If I thought that there was a good possiblity that I'd have to enter in to H2H with a knife I would choose the Maddog Panther, probably the finest pure fighter made.
Stay sharp,
Chad
but it were me, I would certainly want to make sure I had the ability to sharpen my knife as the need arose...
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2001
- Messages
- 2,726
I haven't seen anyone mention Bob Dozier yet...
Here is my first choice for a fighting/utility knife:
5-1/2" D-2 blade with the best grip I've ever held. Too small to be a serious chopper, but it can handle anything else and it's small and light enough that you'll never leave it behind. And it came with an outstanding sheath:
--Bob Q
Here is my first choice for a fighting/utility knife:
5-1/2" D-2 blade with the best grip I've ever held. Too small to be a serious chopper, but it can handle anything else and it's small and light enough that you'll never leave it behind. And it came with an outstanding sheath:
--Bob Q
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2001
- Messages
- 1,218
Partially serrated KA-BAR Next Generation Combat Knife.
7 1/2 Inches of warfare goodness...
-Y.C.
7 1/2 Inches of warfare goodness...
-Y.C.
I'm not sure what the rest of my brothers from the CWT, (Combat Weather Team), are taking, but here is what I'll be carrying when I hit the ground.
1. Neck knife-- Crawford neck knife (not sure the model name)
2. Front right LBE-- (load bearing, equipment)(upside-down carry) Griffith "Marshall".
3. Back-side LBE-- (upside-down carry) Gerber BMF (saw-teeth)
4. Left patch pocket-- Spyderco "Harpy"
5. Right boot carry-- Gerber "Mark I"
6. Rucksack carry-- Jefferson Spivey "Sabertooth"
I wish I had something more to carry, may stick one of my production "autos" in my back pocket, or figure up a way to LBE (belt) carry one.
p.s. will be carrying "Old Glory" in the rucksack as well, I have carried her since Panama and will continue to carry her until I retire.
Gary
1. Neck knife-- Crawford neck knife (not sure the model name)
2. Front right LBE-- (load bearing, equipment)(upside-down carry) Griffith "Marshall".
3. Back-side LBE-- (upside-down carry) Gerber BMF (saw-teeth)
4. Left patch pocket-- Spyderco "Harpy"
5. Right boot carry-- Gerber "Mark I"
6. Rucksack carry-- Jefferson Spivey "Sabertooth"
I wish I had something more to carry, may stick one of my production "autos" in my back pocket, or figure up a way to LBE (belt) carry one.
p.s. will be carrying "Old Glory" in the rucksack as well, I have carried her since Panama and will continue to carry her until I retire.
Gary
I would keep it prety basic since I would have a rifle and a sidearm.
For a fixed blade it would probably go with a Cold Steel SRK.
For a folder I would go with something like an Emerson Mach One.
Last but not least I would have some sort of Multi Tool such as a
Leatherman. Plus something I can sharpen the knives with. I think
these would keep me good to go.
For a fixed blade it would probably go with a Cold Steel SRK.
For a folder I would go with something like an Emerson Mach One.
Last but not least I would have some sort of Multi Tool such as a
Leatherman. Plus something I can sharpen the knives with. I think
these would keep me good to go.