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In-Between Axe Recommendation?
- Thread starter Steve Sr.
- Start date
Yeah as others have said, flatness is really the key but I'm no wood chopper. I mean, you are going to make some kind of compromise probably but it sounds like you need to do more light work than chopping so the compromise is in the right direction. As long as you keep the cheeks convex and full height at the center, but take out material from the outer edges (I can't find the right words to describe the area I'm talking about but I think you know what I mean) I think you'll be happy with it. In any event, it would be a fun project. You might even get a pretty good handle from CT.
ETA: I guess here is where I am going with the 3lb thing and I think it was what manufacturers had in mind when they made them. The side profile remained the same because you want plenty of edge for those times when you do want to chop. Even big limbs turn into chopping when they start to require several swings. But the axe is thinner and lighter because its primary goal is limbing, light work, brush clearing. That makes it breeze through light stuff because it's slightly heavy for the work. It basically does most of the things a bow saw is good for (in green wood anyway), but easier and faster. No sawing, no hacking, just quick swings where the weight does the work. You can take a tree apart real quick, and leave the heavy stuff for the chain saw.
A 3lb Connie on a short handle. One of my favorite things.
truetemperFEKW_connie2 by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
Is that a 24" haft? What is a TT Connie? Is that a vintage head or is it still available?
TT connie = true temper connecticut pattern. no, definitely not still available. a connecticut pattern head is generally around 7" long with a 5" or more wide blade as opposed to a dayton or michigan pattern which are more like 7.5" long by 4.5" wide for an average weight (3.5lbs) head.
Indeed! However, it looks like it only comes in 28" haft version. I was sort of hoping to find 24" like the non-velvicut version. So what quality/finish would I be giving up for the non-velvicut version? Can the non-velvicut be "improved" by hand finishing to be more like the velvicut or are there other major differences between the 2 lines and $110 price difference?
fit and finish can always be fixed with a file and sand paper. the difference between the two axes that can't be changed is that the velvicut version uses a higher quality steel. I'm sure the steel in the regular boys axe is still plenty good though, and probably a good deal at only $50
However, have you swung a 24" handle before? that is pretty short. I have a 28" boys axe and I don't think I'd want to swing anything shorter than that - but that's all personal preference I guess.
However, have you swung a 24" handle before? that is pretty short. I have a 28" boys axe and I don't think I'd want to swing anything shorter than that - but that's all personal preference I guess.
I'm USFS certified for chainsaws and crosscuts also, and spend a lot of my retirement time clearing front country and wilderness trails. My usual carry axes are a 2.5# boy's axe or a 3# Plumb National (pictured below). Plumb is on a 28" house handle. I'll only carry a heavier axe when I want to get some chopping practice, as my sawyer axes are mostly used to pound wedges and underbuck.
Square_peg
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My usual carry axes are a 2.5# boy's axe or a 3# Plumb National (pictured below). Plumb is on a 28" house handle. I'll only carry a heavier axe when I want to get some chopping practice, as my sawyer axes are mostly used to pound wedges and underbuck.
Did you start that underbuck unsupported? I find it difficult to get enough room for the saw if I try to start an underbuck on a 28" haft. This is why I made a long handled light weight axe.
I think we did. As the undercut neared to bypass, I stuck the axe and finished with an underbuck, which let the downhill sawyer stand back and allowed me to finish with just the tip of the saw. You're right about leaving room. The saw was a 7' Simonds 503, which is pretty wide for a full stroke off a short-handled underbuck.
I have been looking at online offerings on the Bay for 2.5-3.0 pound heads and axes. The common ones seem to go from a 2.25 pound boys axe to 3.5+ pound regular axe heads with slim pickings in between. I have seen some plumb 3-2 heads which I think are 3 pounds. Are these worth pursuing and what would be a good shipped price for one in good condition?
I have also started looking for hafts/handles at House Handle and don't see much if anything in a 24" length and there boys axe handle is 28". Are there any other sources for handles that might offer more in 24" range?
Thanks,
Steve
I have also started looking for hafts/handles at House Handle and don't see much if anything in a 24" length and there boys axe handle is 28". Are there any other sources for handles that might offer more in 24" range?
Thanks,
Steve
3-2 means 3-1/2 pounds. A 3# axe is difficult to find, but there are some out there. I have a Wetterlings Black King that's 2.5# and a real nice little axe. Find one of those and you've got your axe.
Square_peg
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West Wood offers a 24" boys axe handle.
https://whiskeyrivertrading.com/products/24-boy-axe-west-woods-axe-handle
Standard axe weights jump from 2-1/4 to 3-1/2 these days. The Plumb 3^2 means 3-1/2 pounds.
https://whiskeyrivertrading.com/products/24-boy-axe-west-woods-axe-handle
Standard axe weights jump from 2-1/4 to 3-1/2 these days. The Plumb 3^2 means 3-1/2 pounds.
Square_peg
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If I were you I'd buy a basic Council boys axe and give it a try. It will be a good axe and you learn what you like and what you don't without shelling out much money or effort.
I looked at the Wettterlings web site and didn't see any current product that would work good for my application. Looks like they were all Hudson Bay patterns with a small poll.
Thanks for the link I'll take a look at it.
I have noticed this seems to be the "new" standard.
Thanks for the clarification. That means that the ones for sale on the Bay are either measured on an inaccurate scale or have had almost 1/2 pound of material (15%) ground away!
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I think that is where this is headed. I just have to get down to the local hardware store to hopefully put my eyes on one.
Square_peg
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Yes, that is likely the case. And with the modern (~1930 & on) method of overlaying the bit it means there's not much hardenable steel left on the bit. Of course some makers like Plumb use one steel throughout their axe but still only the bit was hardened. The only way to be sure what's left is to clean the top or bottom of the axe and give it a vinegar soak to reveal how much tempered steel remains. And I dislike vinegar soaks because they remove the beautiful patina from an old axe.