In search of a perfect convex fixed blade

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Guys, let the man chop his log with a full convexed $140 knife on a lanyard. He doesn’t want to know the best way, he wants what he wants. He is European and he has fans. Show some respect, sheesh
Bow to the king of trolls! Hahaha.

Yes, I'm European, yes I wanna try convex blade.
Now tell me please, you native American (i suppose you have long black hair and reddish skin), is this topic about the best way or about convex grind knife?😂
 
This doesn't make sense to me? A BK2 and a wildlife hatchet weight roughly the same have drastically different chopping potential. Objects don't chop themselves... they rely on humans to chop with them - and we use leverage as a way to increase our ability, so the same effort accomplishes more.

Edit to add: try chopping holding an axe at the head vs middle vs end of haft... weight is same every time, force is different.
Riley, what kind of "force" are you talking about? When we hit something it measures in kg's/pounds etc. Hit the scales holding at the head with your max effort will be one weight, holding at the very end, also with max power, will be more. Don't you really know that or is this some kind of a joke? 😉
 
Ok folks, may I have your attention please.

I created the topic not for trolling, telling me what is the right way to chop, not for criticizing my requirements and all that jazz.
It's really simple, it's about do you know the model matching my wishes or not. That's all, seriously 🙂
 
Bow to the king of trolls! Hahaha.

Yes, I'm European, yes I wanna try convex blade.
Now tell me please, you native American (i suppose you have long black hair and reddish skin), is this topic about the best way or about convex grind knife?😂
The Great Spirit says you are making a fool of yourself 🦅

Has it occurred to you that a full convexed blade on a long lanyard is a crappy, probably dangerous approximation of an axe?
 
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If you can abide a 4.5” blade, the Real Steel Bushcraft plus is what you’re looking for. Full convex, tough 14c28n stainless, comfy handle, good sheath and 40 usd under budget. I love mine to death. Actually I may just go ahead and get another just because it’s that damn good.
 
The Great Spirit says you are making a fool of yourself 🦅

Has it occurred to you that a full convexed blade on a long lanyard is a crappy, probably dangerous approximation of an axe?
But a few times lighter, also being multifunctional tool intsted of single purpose one isn't it, Flaccid Spirit?
 
I just finished this little slicer today. It fits a lot of what you are looking for. It's got a 5.25" blade, stainless Magnacut at 63 HRC. Super light for hiking.
Unfortunately it's way outside your budget and doesn't have a lanyard for chopping logs.
Although I'd say that a man who can chop logs with a pocket knife should be able to make his own knife easily.
PXL_20221221_205624572.jpgPXL_20221221_205600551.jpg
 
If you can abide a 4.5” blade, the Real Steel Bushcraft plus is what you’re looking for. Full convex, tough 14c28n stainless, comfy handle, good sheath and 40 usd under budget. I love mine to death. Actually I may just go ahead and get another just because it’s that damn good.
Top ten, pal. It seem to be just what I'm looking for. Watching its reviews now.
Much obliged, sir
 
I just finished this little slicer today. It fits a lot of what you are looking for. It's got a 5.25" blade, stainless Magnacut at 63 HRC. Super light for hiking.
Unfortunately it's way outside your budget and doesn't have a lanyard for chopping logs.
Although I'd say that a man who can chop logs with a pocket knife should be able to make his own knife easily.
View attachment 2023367View attachment 2023368
100% agree.
One who know how to shoot is able to make a machine gun. True.
 
I'm serious. If you make your own you can get exactly the design you want. Convex is by far the easiest grind too.
 
I'm serious. If you make your own you can get exactly the design you want. Convex is by far the easiest grind too.
Of course you are, no doubt 😉
Oh, that's why convex grind is the most rare kind of grind, because it's the easiest to produce. Now I know
 
I just finished this little slicer today. It fits a lot of what you are looking for. It's got a 5.25" blade, stainless Magnacut at 63 HRC. Super light for hiking.
Unfortunately it's way outside your budget and doesn't have a lanyard for chopping logs.
Although I'd say that a man who can chop logs with a pocket knife should be able to make his own knife easily.
View attachment 2023367View attachment 2023368
Haven't seen a better kitchen knife. I'm serious
 
I know that you in a bit of a back-and-forth about karate chopping logs, but in all seriousness a convex grind is the easiest if you have a decent grinder. It's fast and very hard to mess up.
 
I know that you in a bit of a back-and-forth about karate chopping logs, but in all seriousness a convex grind is the easiest if you have a decent grinder. It's fast and very hard to mess up.
You're funny guy, Ricky. God bless ya
 
Skogsnatt Skogsnatt It seems you are rather determined to ignore all the wisdom provided you here. If you want convex knife fine go and get it, really nobody cares here what you buy. It is your time and money. But what you do is actually repeating stuff you hear from DBK. Let me tell you something about them. They have used thousands of knives probably but not everything they say is true. They are very careless about the terminology they are using and ideas they are spreading.

I only agree to one thing you said. Battonning with a full flat is more difficult compared to convex. Also convex grind makes thinner easier feathers. But a saber or scandi grind knife will batton as good as a convex grind if not better. There are two major factor in battonning performance. First and foremost is the spine thickness THEN the grind type. Lets assume a 5 inch knife with 4mm spine thickness. I tend to think a scandi grind will batton better than convex especially if it is has more of an obtuse primary grind. Saber and convex would be similar with slight advantage to convex. And the last one would be the full flat. You also said convex is stronger than others. You mean the edge or the entire knife? You can make any grind of knife stronger on edge but you will sacrifice the cutting ability. How do you think those thick Fallkniven convex grind cuts? Let me tell you, horrible! If you mean the entire knife being stronger (i.e. it will not break when you hit with a batton) scandi grind is far more durable than any other including convex. Scandi has the most metal on the blade making it most resistant to breaking. Edge is a different story though. Scandi edges are fragile but the is also deepens on the geometry. I have scandi knives with 10 degrees per side, 12.5 degrees per side, 15 degrees per side craft axe and and more obtuse (probably around 17 dps) grind scandi knife and they all have different use. I would not batton with 10 dps and 12.5 dps knives all day through knotted logs and expect them to be chip free on the edge.

So as a summary, do not rush to believe everything you hear. The truth is usually more complicated than you think. Search more, hear more, use more and listen more when people more experienced than you try to tell you something. Then you will eventually find your own truth. If you want to buy a convex go and buy it, it is a great overall grind that can do many thing good. But do not expect miracles because you might get disappointed.
 
Skogsnatt Skogsnatt It seems you are rather determined to ignore all the wisdom provided you here. If you want convex knife fine go and get it, really nobody cares here what you buy. It is your time and money. But what you do is actually repeating stuff you hear from DBK. Let me tell you something about them. They have used thousands of knives probably but not everything they say is true. They are very careless about the terminology they are using and ideas they are spreading.

I only agree to one thing you said. Battonning with a full flat is more difficult compared to convex. Also convex grind makes thinner easier feathers. But a saber or scandi grind knife will batton as good as a convex grind if not better. There are two major factor in battonning performance. First and foremost is the spine thickness THEN the grind type. Lets assume a 5 inch knife with 4mm spine thickness. I tend to think a scandi grind will batton better than convex especially if it is has more of an obtuse primary grind. Saber and convex would be similar with slight advantage to convex. And the last one would be the full flat. You also said convex is stronger than others. You mean the edge or the entire knife? You can make any grind of knife stronger on edge but you will sacrifice the cutting ability. How do you think those thick Fallkniven convex grind cuts? Let me tell you, horrible! If you mean the entire knife being stronger (i.e. it will not break when you hit with a batton) scandi grind is far more durable than any other including convex. Scandi has the most metal on the blade making it most resistant to breaking. Edge is a different story though. Scandi edges are fragile but the is also deepens on the geometry. I have scandi knives with 10 degrees per side, 12.5 degrees per side, 15 degrees per side craft axe and and more obtuse (probably around 17 dps) grind scandi knife and they all have different use. I would not batton with 10 dps and 12.5 dps knives all day through knotted logs and expect them to be chip free on the edge.

So as a summary, do not rush to believe everything you hear. The truth is usually more complicated than you think. Search more, hear more, use more and listen more when people more experienced than you try to tell you something. Then you will eventually find your own truth. If you want to buy a convex go and buy it, it is a great overall grind that can do many thing good. But do not expect miracles because you might get disappointed.
If you see wisdom in those advice to go buy flat grind when the topic's title is about CONVEX, then you're not wise.

Ok, maybe the difference between the grinds is really thin while baton, but the toughness of convex is best, ceteris paribus.

Talking of vlogs I wasn't meant only DBK, of course. It's a sum of the opinions of several independent reviewers. God knows why you decided that not asking me.

Thank you anyway
 
Since you aren't able to find a commercial knife that fits your needs, it looks like your going to have to get one made. Of course that means finding someone that will meet your price point. The unbreakable might be a standard that's hard to meet.
 
Interesting. Looking at it. It's stylish.
Thanks!

As for the chopping, folks, you may be mad at me, but have anyone ever seen an axe, the tool designed to chop, with blade longer than machete? I mean that weight chops, not the length. If so, we don't need the long blade, we need power hit. As I already said, the lanyard gives you that power with a leverage, as you hold the knife way too further than the normal grip, with only an index and middle fingers on a handle and the rest on lanyard. Moreover, there is even more power from a swing between the end of handle and a your fingers on lanyard.
Physics!😄
Don't be mad, just try

^Doesn't understand physics...

Comparing an axe blade length to a machete blade length but ignoring leverage granted to the axe by the handle and the machete via the long blade... but then circling back around again to how a lanyard gives addition leverage for chopping. Comparing apples to watermelons...

So, some very basic physics for you.

Leverage: the exertion of force by means of a lever or an object used in the manner of a lever.

Lever: a rigid bar resting on a pivot, used to help move a heavy or firmly fixed load with one end when pressure is applied to the other.

Force: strength or energy as an attribute of physical action or movement

Power: the amount of energy transferred or converted per unit time.

Energy: the force that causes things to move. 2 main types of energy are kinetic and potential.

I would share some basic formulas but I suspect that would be too much.

Now, as to the actual question, you may consider looking at less common places like Kailash Blades Kailash Blades who does convex grinds regularly on their knives and kukhuris. Their lead time is long but you've stated you're patient so no problem there.

Himalayan imports probably has one of their bowie or karda knife things that would fit your criteria, but I've been more happy with Kailash's blades as the edges come better for how I use my kukhuris. Based on your uses, one of the mini kukhuris might be a really good option if you don't mind the blade. I find the 7" kukhuri to be a great size balancing weight, packability (physical size), cutting ability, and chopping ability. The 5" loses a fair bit of chopping due to reduced leverage and weight, but you can figure that out with a lanyard I suppose.

The 5160 and heat treat from Kailash will give you a very sturdy product, as will the other kukhuri makers like HI. The rat tail will help keep the weight down if you don't go with a full-tang version, and this weight-forward balance aids in chopping (better potential energy at the point of impact).

If that fails, I think you need to look for a flying Guillotine since you're already a pro with lanyards and ropes.
 
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