Input on first couple of knives

T

Tkrocky

Joined
Sep 6, 2013
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Just wanted to see if you guys had any suggestions or opinions for me on these first couple of knives I made. This is my second and third finished knives. The first one looked kind of like a steak knife, and then I just totally ruined like three of them. Anyways, they are d2 steel at 61 rc (by peters) one has an acid /patina finish with zebra wood and g10 handle, and the other one is satin finished to 400 grit with stabilized walnut burl and carbon fiber handles. You guys make the coolest stuff so I just wanted your opinions on what I could improve on/keep the same, as I am debating buying a knife makers membership. Thanks guys! Oh, and let me know if I posted this wrong or something

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Thanks a lot! The first one is actually my most recent, it just posted that way for some reason
 
Really good job. I also like the first one. The handle materials really compliment each other. However, the bump behind the finger notch looks too big. Like it could creat a hot spot with a lot of use. The handle also looks too boxy. Try and round the handle a bit more. My first knives also had these boxy handles.

On the second one, the spine is too straight and the belly is too big. Because the spine and edge are parallel until near the tip of the knife, it makes it look like a bar of steel.

Looks like you have a good skill set. Keep on rocking them out!
 
I'm very new to but I like the first on good profile. I'm not crazy about the two tone handle but looks executed well....and I shoot a hoyt too nice bow:D
 
I think it took you quite some time and attention to detail to fit up those handles. They are unique and I especially like the first one. If you are considering a Knifemaker membership so you can sell your knives, I think you will need get more detailed in your blade finishing. There are quite a few visible scratches and inconsistent scratch pattern in the finish. If you are going to put the kind of time in to make those interesting handles then you are going to want to get paid for it and you won't if the rest of the knife is not up to par.

Bob
 
The knives look good for you second and third! It may just be me, but you makers mark is hard to read. I really can't tell what it says.

-Adam
 
Good work so far...keep at it. The critiques below are design comments for future knives, these appear well made.

On #1:
The overall shape is nice, but maybe you have too many curves and angles mixed together. If the curve from butt to clip back was even, I think it would have a lot more "WOW" factor. The dip into and out of the ricasso spine area distracts the eye.

The handle looks nice, but thing sections and points will snap off easily in use. CF is tough, so it isn't quite as much a risk, but avoid long thin pieces of handle material like you have on the lower guard projection.

The front mosaic river wasn't quite clocked straight. Make sure all mosaic rivets are aligned the same, or the one not aligned will stick out like a sore thumb.

#2
The blade is strangely shaped. It is too fat and "blunt" looking ( sort of looks like a garden tool).

While a harpoon clip looks good on some knives, it isn't right for every knife. On that blade it looks like a hindrance, not an asset.

I would loose the thumb dip on the spine to make it more "flowing". The two-tone handle doesn't seem to work here. ( it is really well done, just not "fitting in" with the rest of the knife.). Maybe all black G-10 would have looked more like a user.




Probably just me, but the logo looks like it is on upside down. I would place the handle at the top of the logo, not the bottom. Certainly more aesthetics than a real issue.
 
Also think these are great for such early knives, especially the level of joinery that went into the handles.

Agree whole heartedly with bladsmth's comments, all very good advice.
 
love the handle material on the first knife, great looking knife, I feel like the mosaic pins should have been rotated clockwise to line up better with the top of the handle, to increase the flow of the arc

second knife, great handle, but the blade is a little too chunky, kinda like my first wife ;0)
 
Both knives are pretty good, the first one in the pics looks better to me, I agree with Ranger Bob's comments, I think your first knife (second one pictured) would look better if you had a different finish on the flats and the swedge of the harpoon, sort of like the first one--the swedge on the harpoon looks like it has a different finish--I hate mosaic pins for a lot of reasons, but you MUST line them up IMO if you're gonna use 'em. Your sheath work looks very good--you're stitching appears impeccable--nice blades to just get going with!
 
Guys, you are amazing as usual. I totally agree with what you said. Some of the stuff I saw and was planning to change and some of the stuff I never would have thought of in a million years! Lining up the mosaic pins? Great idea. I agree with the finish suggestions wholeheartedly, I was just having a hard time getting that last little bit out. I also agree that that second knife looks like a garden tool. Haha. I think my next one will turn out a lot better with your suggestions! Thanks a ton for the help!
 
Not much to add other than whats said as far as critiques. For lining up the mosaics leave a bit sticking out and use a hacksaw blade to cut a slot in them. You can easier reference the "north/south" for lining them up and you can also use a screwdriver to rotate them to line them up. But overall very good work.
 
Here are some tricks for lining up mosaic rivets:
1) Cut each rivet 1/4" longer than the handle thickness.
2) Saw a shallow "slot" on each end....lined up with the North-South axis of the rivet. Remember that diamonds are better looking than squares when deciding alignment options.
3) Rough up the sides of the rivets with 120 grit paper. Test fit every rivet to assure a moderate slip fit. They shouldn't fall through, but should not be too tight either.
4) Apply epoxy to the rivet as well as inside each hole USEING 1 HOUR OR LONGER SETTTING EPOXY. 24 Hour setting resin is by far the best.
5) Once all rivets are in place, wipe off the ends with a paper towel and use a small screwdriver in the slots you cut to turn each one perfect. Check both sides, as sometimes there is a slight twist to the rivets pattern.
6) Wipe any drips off the blade and set the knife down to cure for a while.
7) Check the rivet alignment again when the resin mixing cup is just getting tacky. Make any last minute changes now. Wipe off any drips or squeeze out on the blade with a paper towel and acetone or denatured alcohol. Let it cure overnight.

Going back to #4 - think hard before you ever use 2 minute epoxy on a knife handle. Besides being not as strong, it may be setting up in as little as 60 seconds....do you really want to be trying to get everything perfect in such a rush. Using 1 hour...or even better - 24 hour.... resin allows better curing for strength, easier application with no rush....and most importantly - Time to inspect and adjust things that you might have missed in the mad dash to get it together before the resin set up on you. With 24 hour setting resin, if there s a major problem, you usually have time to take it apart, fix the problem, and re-assemble while the epoxy is still in the working time.
The slower setting time also allows dying the resin to match the wood easily. I have a jar of white, black, tan, and red dye powder. By blending those four into the resin cup ( I use plastic 1oz. condiment cups) I can mix up a batch of colored resin to match most any wood.
 
Where could I get this dye powder? And what epoxy do you use? West systems seems popular
 
I got my epoxy coloring pigments from Knife and Gun Finishing. I picked up the same colors that Stacy uses. Red, White, Tan, and Black. Just remember, if you do get some, a tiny amount goes a long way. I use West Systems G Flex epoxy.
 
shane_o_ca said:
Really good job. I also like the first one. The handle materials really compliment each other. However, the bump behind the finger notch looks too big. Like it could creat a hot spot with a lot of use. The handle also looks too boxy. Try and round the handle a bit more. My first knives also had these boxy handles.

On the second one, the spine is too straight and the belly is too big. Because the spine and edge are parallel until near the tip of the knife, it makes it look like a bar of steel.

Looks like you have a good skill set. Keep on rocking them out!
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I don't like to critique other people's knives. Ergonomics and looks is obviously a very personal thing. My 1/2 century-long favourite still is a Canadian-made Grohmann DHRussell #1 which is entirely unconventional looking and yet handier than a pocket in a shirt when you're cleaning geese, turkeys, digging around inside a moose or caribou or peeling the hide off a bear.
 
300Six said:
I don't like to critique other people's knives. Ergonomics and looks is obviously a very personal thing.
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The OP did ask for feedback on what could be improved. It's how we all grow as knife makers.

Just wanted to see if you guys had any suggestions or opinions for me on these first couple of knives I made.
Click to expand...

You guys make the coolest stuff so I just wanted your opinions on what I could improve on/keep the same,
Click to expand...
 
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