Good deal. It will help you with the proportions on bigger blades to see how things go on the micro scale,too.
Don't make any exceptions or compromises with a mini. If you would do it on a full size blade, do the same on the mini...just smaller and to scale.Take some measurements and make a scale comparison chart for the project ( or at least write them down). As in full sized blades, drawings and a plan of action will make the project go better.
If the full size blade would be 7" with a 5" tang, then your blade should be 7/8" blade with 5/8" tang.....or a 8:1 scale. At that scale, if the full sized blade is 3/16" thick...yours should be 3/128" , or 0.025" thick. The thickness is where most minis fail miserably. I have seen them made with blades that would full scale at over 1" thick.
Handle size is also a big place where scale falls apart. Do some careful measurements and work the handle down to scale. The harder and denser the material, the easier it is to work in small sizes. A scrap of ivory can be sanded thin enough to see through, and ebony works well...but oak and walnut are too large grained.
HINT - drill the tang hole in the handle material first, and then shape the handle. It can be very hard to drill a small hole accurately in the center of a 0.125" X 0.100" handle. Drill out a couple handle blanks, as they tend to have a high failure rate. If one isn't going right, just start another. Sneak up on the final details, as it is easy to take .005 off, but you can't put .001 back on. Another tip is to soak wooden handles in thin super glue when it is about 90% shaped. This stabilizes the wood and prevents a lot of splitting when the final shaping and assembly is done. It also makes getting a nice smooth finished surface easier. An Optivisor helps with minis a lot.
If you don't have a pin vise to hold the blade while working on it, use a 6" piece of 1/4" dowel with a hole in the end. Glue the tang in the hole and when the blade is done, warm it until you can pull it out.
A pin vise is great because it can also hold the blade while you are working on the handle end.Any hobby shop will have them for less than $5. An old X-acto handle will also work in some cases.