-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
Introduction and a WIP
- Thread starter Will Morrison
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2001
- Messages
- 12,348
Very good stuff. You're a good instructor.
I just jumped in and started reading. As soon as I read the word 'normalised' I knew I was watching something from across an ocean or two.... LOL!
Thanks, Will. A VERY appropriate and deserving greeting from you.
Coop
I just jumped in and started reading. As soon as I read the word 'normalised' I knew I was watching something from across an ocean or two.... LOL!
Thanks, Will. A VERY appropriate and deserving greeting from you.
Coop
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2009
- Messages
- 329
Thanks everyone
I should have a few more photos up soon.
Thanks Pete.
The camera is just a cheap Olympus point and shoot thing, model VG140. I know very little about cameras or photography, but I think I had it set to some kind of macro mode.
Thanks Greg.
I know what you mean. I used to dread working on this area.
The method I used could be easily improved on, possibly buy cutting a step into the micarta piece, just enough to clear the sandpaper.
Something like this:
This way the sandpaper isn't clogged up with micarta, and the angle will not be changed as the micarta is abraded away.
I should have a few more photos up soon.
Thanks Pete.
The camera is just a cheap Olympus point and shoot thing, model VG140. I know very little about cameras or photography, but I think I had it set to some kind of macro mode.
Thanks Greg.
I know what you mean. I used to dread working on this area.
The method I used could be easily improved on, possibly buy cutting a step into the micarta piece, just enough to clear the sandpaper.
Something like this:
This way the sandpaper isn't clogged up with micarta, and the angle will not be changed as the micarta is abraded away.
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2009
- Messages
- 329
Now that the tang is drilled, it can be tapered.
I start by scribing some lines. Like many other makers, I use the (flat and parallel) ricasso as the basis for much of the build. The usefulness of the ricasso as a reference plane was really driven home for me by Nick Wheeler in the WiP thread: Wheeler's Steel :thumbup:
It's a bit hard to see here, but I'm pressing the ricasso against the thicker portion of a small square while I scribe the lines.
I hollow grind to remove the bulk of the steel, much like one would do on a tapered full tang.
Here the hollow grinding is finished
Now I switch to the flat platen and start tapering. I think I used a 120 grit belt for this.
Taper roughed in.
Now I use the 9" disk grinder with some 120 grit paper to walk the taper up to the ricasso. I want to feather it in to just past where I will be cutting the shoulders in.
Tapering the tang makes fitting fittings fun.
I start by scribing some lines. Like many other makers, I use the (flat and parallel) ricasso as the basis for much of the build. The usefulness of the ricasso as a reference plane was really driven home for me by Nick Wheeler in the WiP thread: Wheeler's Steel :thumbup:
It's a bit hard to see here, but I'm pressing the ricasso against the thicker portion of a small square while I scribe the lines.
I hollow grind to remove the bulk of the steel, much like one would do on a tapered full tang.
Here the hollow grinding is finished
Now I switch to the flat platen and start tapering. I think I used a 120 grit belt for this.
Taper roughed in.
Now I use the 9" disk grinder with some 120 grit paper to walk the taper up to the ricasso. I want to feather it in to just past where I will be cutting the shoulders in.
Tapering the tang makes fitting fittings fun.
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2009
- Messages
- 329
Time to clean up the ricasso.
I glue some sandpaper to one of my flat marble slabs, using some spray adhesive. I like this stuff.
Then I move the ricasso against the abrasive in an X shaped path, always trying to keep the pressure as even as possible.
Here is the resultant scratch pattern.
Then I go back to the disk and lightly grind the taper back up to where it was. I go back and forth in this manner from the disk to the flat plate until I have the two different scratch patterns overlapping where I want them.
Not quite there yet
This is how I want the blade at this point, with the taper feathered up to just about where I'll be cutting the shoulders. The ricasso is probably finished to 220 grit in this photo
I glue some sandpaper to one of my flat marble slabs, using some spray adhesive. I like this stuff.
Then I move the ricasso against the abrasive in an X shaped path, always trying to keep the pressure as even as possible.
Here is the resultant scratch pattern.
Then I go back to the disk and lightly grind the taper back up to where it was. I go back and forth in this manner from the disk to the flat plate until I have the two different scratch patterns overlapping where I want them.
Not quite there yet
This is how I want the blade at this point, with the taper feathered up to just about where I'll be cutting the shoulders. The ricasso is probably finished to 220 grit in this photo
Hengelo_77
Basic Member
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2006
- Messages
- 6,288
nice wip, nice work
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2009
- Messages
- 329
Next up is finish grinding. I use a flexible 400 grit AO belt to begin with, and then follow it up with a worn A45 trizact belt. I remove the 120 grit scratches with the 400 grit belt, then refine and blend the scratch pattern with the trizact.
This is what the finish looks like before hand sanding.
I decided to trim some excess from the tang.
This is what the finish looks like before hand sanding.
I decided to trim some excess from the tang.
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2005
- Messages
- 869
Excellent work and skill level Will, look forward to seeing it finished. Have you ever been to any Aussie knife shows?
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2009
- Messages
- 329
Great WIP - you clearly put a lot of thought and planning into your process which is evident not only in your description but also in the results (so far). Really looking forward to the next installment!
Cheers, Wulf.
Lately Ive been trying to be more methodical about my approach, so Im pleased that its apparent.
I stumbled across your website years ago; I remember being very impressed by a tutorial detailing the construction of a small integral. Bloody funny, too.
Thank you, Peter.
I haven't been to any knife shows in Australia, or anywhere else. I hope to attend one in the near future, though. I'm really blown away by the work that I've seen posted on these forums by Aussie makers, it would be great to see it up close.
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2009
- Messages
- 329
Here is my hand sanding support. Just two short lengths of angle welded together and shaped to a blunt point. I'd like to add an adjustable liner to account for taper and so forth (as seen in Nick Wheeler's WIP), but so far I've been too lazy.
I just use little micarta wedges to stop the blade from flexing. These work adequately, but are certainly not the best way to do it.
Before I started sanding this blade I used a diamond stone to blend in the edge bevel a bit. I had tried to to do this just using a slack belt, but wasn't happy with the results, especially around where the edge drops.
Diamond is an odd abrasive to work with. It seems to feel very aggressive, even in the finer grits.
I just use little micarta wedges to stop the blade from flexing. These work adequately, but are certainly not the best way to do it.
Before I started sanding this blade I used a diamond stone to blend in the edge bevel a bit. I had tried to to do this just using a slack belt, but wasn't happy with the results, especially around where the edge drops.
Diamond is an odd abrasive to work with. It seems to feel very aggressive, even in the finer grits.
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2009
- Messages
- 329
Before I start hand finishing a blade, I clean up the area where I'll be working, if not my whole shop. I put tools away, vacuum up all the dust that I can, and wipe down the surfaces where I'll be putting my sandpaper and sanding sticks. This is mainly to prevent unwanted abrasive particles from getting on my work, but it also helps to put me in the right frame of mind to do a job that shouldn't be rushed.
I've been trying to incorporate stones more into my finishing process, so I used a 300 grit stone (slice of a King sharpening stone) to remove most of the grinder scratches. I'm not very impressed with how this particular stone felt, I don't think I'll use it again.
I soon switched to 320 grit wet/dry paper to finish removing the scratches left from the grinder. The sandpaper is cut into strips roughly the same width as the blade, with scissors that have been washed (I use the same scissors for many different grits).
I use this as a sanding stick. just a piece of micarta ground flat (also washed before use)
After sanding the rest of the bevels to 320 grit, I still had a scratch left in the plunge. I could have probably removed it with the 320 grit paper, but the sanding block just felt a bit too clumsy for the task.
I use a 600 grit edm/mould makers stone to get into the plunge. To provide the cutting action I use very small movements perpendicular to the scratch, sliding up the plunge like a ramp, until my hand cramps up. I really try to focus my effort right in the curve of the plunge, to avoid cutting a groove in the bevel just before the plunge.
I follow up the 600 grit stone with a 1200 grit stone. This is a slice of another King sharpening stone, but unlike the 300 grit, this one cuts very nicely.
When I'm satisfied that the plunge scratch is gone, I go over the area with the 320 grit paper again.
I've been trying to incorporate stones more into my finishing process, so I used a 300 grit stone (slice of a King sharpening stone) to remove most of the grinder scratches. I'm not very impressed with how this particular stone felt, I don't think I'll use it again.
I soon switched to 320 grit wet/dry paper to finish removing the scratches left from the grinder. The sandpaper is cut into strips roughly the same width as the blade, with scissors that have been washed (I use the same scissors for many different grits).
I use this as a sanding stick. just a piece of micarta ground flat (also washed before use)
After sanding the rest of the bevels to 320 grit, I still had a scratch left in the plunge. I could have probably removed it with the 320 grit paper, but the sanding block just felt a bit too clumsy for the task.
I use a 600 grit edm/mould makers stone to get into the plunge. To provide the cutting action I use very small movements perpendicular to the scratch, sliding up the plunge like a ramp, until my hand cramps up. I really try to focus my effort right in the curve of the plunge, to avoid cutting a groove in the bevel just before the plunge.
I follow up the 600 grit stone with a 1200 grit stone. This is a slice of another King sharpening stone, but unlike the 300 grit, this one cuts very nicely.
When I'm satisfied that the plunge scratch is gone, I go over the area with the 320 grit paper again.
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2009
- Messages
- 329
Does this look familiar to anyone? As far as I can tell, it is caused by the back edge of the sanding block when the front edge hits the plunge, and stops suddenly. In this photo its just a bunch of hook shaped scratches, but it can end up as a groove if sanding is continued in this manner. Guess how I know
Checking for that plunge scratch.
Scissors getting washed. I dont know whether this kind of thing seems excessive you all, but I find little things like this help me to set the tone for the work that will follow. If cant be bothered to wash the scissors, why should I be bothered to polish out that last scratch?
600 grit paper cut into strips.
Blade sanded to 600 grit.
Paper stuck to block with spray adhesive. This will be used to sand the ricasso. I use the glue because I want the paper to sit flat, to prevent rounding of features that look better left sharp.
Ricasso being sanded. The blade is covered in wax at this point, to prevent pitting.
Checking for that plunge scratch.
Scissors getting washed. I dont know whether this kind of thing seems excessive you all, but I find little things like this help me to set the tone for the work that will follow. If cant be bothered to wash the scissors, why should I be bothered to polish out that last scratch?
600 grit paper cut into strips.
Blade sanded to 600 grit.
Paper stuck to block with spray adhesive. This will be used to sand the ricasso. I use the glue because I want the paper to sit flat, to prevent rounding of features that look better left sharp.
Ricasso being sanded. The blade is covered in wax at this point, to prevent pitting.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2011
- Messages
- 5,042
Hey Will,
Great WIP. I was wondering something. What if instead of trying to take the grit away with a diamond file on the opposite edge of your sanding block from the cutting edge, you used a piece of masking tape along that edge? That would protect that side from scratching as well as providing a slight angle away from the blade. So, in theory you would get cutting action in the plunge and a feathering out the farther away from the plunge you get. In practice this might not work at all but I was just curious.
Great WIP. I was wondering something. What if instead of trying to take the grit away with a diamond file on the opposite edge of your sanding block from the cutting edge, you used a piece of masking tape along that edge? That would protect that side from scratching as well as providing a slight angle away from the blade. So, in theory you would get cutting action in the plunge and a feathering out the farther away from the plunge you get. In practice this might not work at all but I was just curious.
- Status