Is it normal for a GEC knife to be IMPOSSIBLE to open by hand?

Will, I think the square tangs have a lot to do with the hard pulls. The Remington flush and square joint trappers were/are notoriously firm as well. But I've had GECs with round bolsters, although with half stops, that were 8+ pulls as well (Big Jack, American Jack)-- I think Bill just likes them that way on classic patterns.
 
EyeDog said:
Maybe I should start a new thread "Why I Destroyed My Knife." [emoji57]

It was a rash and probably unwarranted move. It was done with vice and pliers and broke the blade near the tang.

To be clear, this had to do more with a combination of the liner lock AND pull. The liner lock was also really hard to use. It was from the half stop and the added pressure to get the blade closed (not open) and not being able get my hand out of the way while pushing the liner lock that resulted in blood on the saddle.

BTW...this was some time ago when I was mostly buy/selling tactical folders with easy one handed liner and frame locks. That's what I thought I was getting in the 73 liner lock.

I would do things differently now.

So now you know the rest of the story. I'll move my rocker to the back of the porch and hang my head for s while. [emoji29]

Mike
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A stupid move that is in the past. I've been angry before too. It's over, pull that chair back up front and grab a stick and start whittling. Here comes the jug, take a dram...
 
Thanks guys...I feel a little better. I better make it a "long pull" on that dram when it gets to me. [emoji57]
 
black mamba said:
Will, I think the square tangs have a lot to do with the hard pulls. The Remington flush and square joint trappers were/are notoriously firm as well. But I've had GECs with round bolsters, although with half stops, that were 8+ pulls as well (Big Jack, American Jack)-- I think Bill just likes them that way on classic patterns.
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Jeff and Will, The square tangs are for half stops like my #47 Viper for size comparison, and makes no difference on the pull weight. The #15 Boys knife have them as well. It's all in the back spring and it's pivot pin location. You are right, the #73 design comes from the old Remington bullet pattern of 90 years ago.
 
I really do prefer hard pulls, the harder the better! I've got a #23 made in 2008 that's a beast and I simply love it!!😃
Honestly I think these new 73's were a little lighter sprung than I had hoped 😳😊😅
So in light of that, instead of yall your destroying knives or just letting them sit in a drawer somewhere because of too heavy of a pull, yall should send them to me for proper disposal😁😅😅👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😂😂

On a serious note tho, if yall are looking for someone to give/sell/trade your hard sprung knives too, please let me know! Maybe we could work something out😃

Ryan
 
Markesharp said:
You just happened to get a lighter pull on that particular one. The lanyard hole makes no difference in pull weight.
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Not to be contrary but I have to agree with silenthunterstudios on the #73s with the lanyard tube. It's possible that the 4 of 33 #73s with lanyard tube that I have/had were outliers but I haven't heard anyone say that they have one with lanyard tube that is hard to open. This is for the single blade ones. The tube probably shouldn't make a difference but it could be that that run had something different that affected pulls. Maybe a bit more of the spring was ground away than intended with this run? I don't know but I still haven't heard from anyone that the tube versions are hard to open. The 2 #23s with lanyard holes that I have are also easier to open than the other 4 I have.

That said, I do have other #73s and #23s without the tube that aren't difficult to open and some that took a lot of effort and a bit of modifying before I would carry them.
 
If I have a knife that has a stiff pull, I cover my thumb with my shirt then try to open it, it works for me. Then when it's open I flush out all of that compound.
 
I don't presently own any of their knives. Had a nice sod buster a few years ago that I gave to a friend.

My question - why on God's green earth do they make their knives like this? Sounds kinda dumb........and potentially dangerous.
 
utah - a stiff pull can be safer, because it makes it less likely the blade will close on you when using it hard. But that said - I do get annoyed with a true nail buster...

However. I own about 40 GEC knives, and of those only about 3 of them are true nail breakers. It does happen - but it's not as common in my experience.
 
EyeDog said:
...So now you know the rest of the story. I'll move my rocker to the back of the porch and hang my head for s while. [emoji29]
Mike
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Mike, I'll certainly fight for your right to purchase whatever knife you want (even if I might think it's butt-ugly :p) and your right to treat YOUR knife however you want to (even if I might not agree with your decision :p). No need to move your rocker (unless you're looking for a little shade) or hang your head! ;)

Markesharp said:
Jeff and Will, The square tangs are for half stops like my #47 Viper for size comparison, and makes no difference on the pull weight. The #15 Boys knife have them as well. It's all in the back spring and it's pivot pin location. You are right, the #73 design comes from the old Remington bullet pattern of 90 years ago.
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Mark, your earlier sketch was VERY convincing to me, and I think is a GREAT explanation for why the pull on a typical #15 should be lighter than that on a typical #73. But it obviously can't account for the individual pull variation among knives that are all the same model. What are some of the factors that might account for some 73s having much stiffer pulls than others?? I don't know enough about it to make conjectures, and would like to hear what others think so that I can learn something!

- GT
 
liamstrain said:
utah - a stiff pull can be safer, because it makes it less likely the blade will close on you when using it hard. But that said - I do get annoyed with a true nail buster...

However. I own about 40 GEC knives, and of those only about 3 of them are true nail breakers. It does happen - but it's not as common in my experience.
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Good input Liam. Thanks. I was beginning to think GEC was making mini-guillotines. I do wonder if anyone has lost a finger or two to one. The orange sod buster I had a few years ago was stiff but not bad and was a VERY well made knife. I also had a conductor with tortise shell scales that I sold and am still kicking myself for that. It was the perfect size for daily carry.
 
2Dead said:
Not to be contrary but I have to agree with silenthunterstudios on the #73s with the lanyard tube. It's possible that the 4 of 33 #73s with lanyard tube that I have/had were outliers but I haven't heard anyone say that they have one with lanyard tube that is hard to open. This is for the single blade ones. The tube probably shouldn't make a difference but it could be that that run had something different that affected pulls. Maybe a bit more of the spring was ground away than intended with this run? I don't know but I still haven't heard from anyone that the tube versions are hard to open. The 2 #23s with lanyard holes that I have are also easier to open than the other 4 I have.

That said, I do have other #73s and #23s without the tube that aren't difficult to open and some that took a lot of effort and a bit of modifying before I would carry them.
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Just wanted to say that 2Dead might be right. If the position of the lanyard tube (or modifications to the spring to fit the tube) cause the spring to pivot a tad more towards the front edge at the butt of the knife than the non-tubed 73's, the spring would drop a tad at the tang and automatically be weaker since it's not having to flex as far. It doesn't take much to make a difference.

Eric
 
Unfortunately, yes they can be impossible to open. That is why the only knife I would ever buy from them would be a fixed blade.
 
henryhide said:
Unfortunately, yes they can be impossible to open. That is why the only knife I would ever buy from them would be a fixed blade.
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I like their fixed blades, but you're missing out on some nice knives. That's your prerogative though.
 
henryhide said:
Unfortunately, yes they can be impossible to open. That is why the only knife I would ever buy from them would be a fixed blade.
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Seems quite extremist. Most of their knives are quite usable. Some are a pain. You'll have that with any factory.
 
5K Qs said:
Mark, your earlier sketch was VERY convincing to me, and I think is a GREAT explanation for why the pull on a typical #15 should be lighter than that on a typical #73. But it obviously can't account for the individual pull variation among knives that are all the same model. What are some of the factors that might account for some 73s having much stiffer pulls than others?? I don't know enough about it to make conjectures, and would like to hear what others think so that I can learn something!

- GT
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Gary - I apologize if I came off as "Mr. Know-It-All", that wasn't my intention and I don't know everything. Let me expound a little more on the backsprings. The heat treat makes a lot of difference in the stiffness of the spring. 46 -48 Rc hardness seams to be the ideal balance of toughness and flexibility on a back spring. With that said, the springs are sent out in batches for that particular run of whatever pattern knife or knives are being produced. Batches will very slightly due to steel chemistry and other variables on every run. This was noticed on the last run of TC Barlows which people were commenting that the pull was weaker than the previous 9 runs or thereabouts. I like learning too!

-Mark
 
With the recent (last 15 years) decision that any discernible movement (play) of a blade is a defect; the factories are left scrambling for a solution. I have never been told, but it is my opinion that many of the springs are intentionally very tight such that the factory can peen the joints very snug and the spring will overcome the added resistance. If you have a medium spring, it is a very fine line to get the action you want without any play. You can take the play out, but then have to push the blade open/closed in medium action springs. GEC seems very intent on good action and closed backsprings; if nothing else.
 
I personally have never had one issue from the numerous GEC knives I have purchased. Their Fit, finish and overall quality are top notch, no blade play, wobble, backspring gaps, etc. They make a great knife and I keep buying them.
 
Markesharp said:
I personally have never had one issue from the numerous GEC knives I have purchased. Their Fit, finish and overall quality are top notch, no blade play, wobble, backspring gaps, etc. They make a great knife and I keep buying them.
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That's been my experience.

I have a lot of GECs. I haven't got around to using all of them... Yet... but I've put quite a few through their paces and have not been disappointed. They are a pleasure to use.

Like this 54 Harness Jack. Pretty darn stiff when new. Smooth as silk now. I did nothing special to it... just used it, cleaned it when needed and put a drop of oil in the joints.

GEC54HJ02_zpsspxnkbwy.jpg
 
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