Is the Cold Steel Recon Scout a risky buy?

I would say that the HT on some is good enough to keep the design flaw from showing itself or they were never taken to that extreme.

I'm leaning toward the same idea but I'd still like to know if that flaw would or should present as a weakness when chopping. I'm basing this on the chopping I've done and seen in various reviews that didn't result in failure. If anyone has links or knowledge of failures due to chopping please post them.

My long windedness aside (apologies) I guess it comes down to one question for me, if you excluded batoning from the equation would the RS still be considered untrustworthy?
I haven't felt a need to baton in most of my usual activities but I do realize the value of it in some scenarios. The ESEE 5 would probably be my personal pick if I thought the situation would potentially present itself as I haven't heard of any failures so far. That being said I'm not quite ready to totally rule out the RS as a viably usable knife for general chores.
 
Proper heat treat would certainly reduce the chance of failure. Problem with the large batch HT ovens there are zones of ideal HT and zones that are not. Problem is they don't know where that zone is so a batch of say 100 knives in one large batch oven maybe 15 are perfect, 70 are ok and 15 are terrible. Those 15 give the rest a bad name. That is Ontarios problem. But just radiusing the transition would keep failures down.
 
I'm leaning toward the same idea but I'd still like to know if that flaw would or should present as a weakness when chopping. I'm basing this on the chopping I've done and seen in various reviews that didn't result in failure. If anyone has links or knowledge of failures due to chopping please post them.

My long windedness aside (apologies) I guess it comes down to one question for me, if you excluded batoning from the equation would the RS still be considered untrustworthy?
I haven't felt a need to baton in most of my usual activities but I do realize the value of it in some scenarios. The ESEE 5 would probably be my personal pick if I thought the situation would potentially present itself as I haven't heard of any failures so far. That being said I'm not quite ready to totally rule out the RS as a viably usable knife for general chores.
I think one of the things leading to failure is the volume, over time that tang will weaken and I feel like even with s radius tang that there's no real one way to fix the design without making the thing a true full tang.
 
Proper heat treat would certainly reduce the chance of failure. Problem with the large batch HT ovens there are zones of ideal HT and zones that are not. Problem is they don't know where that zone is so a batch of say 100 knives in one large batch oven maybe 15 are perfect, 70 are ok and 15 are terrible. Those 15 give the rest a bad name. That is Ontarios problem. But just radiusing the transition would keep failures down.
Hmmm... This is interesting to me, I have purchased several Ontario blades and all of them have proven to be quality. Maybe I'm just lucky?
 
Well, Scrapyard knives are all long radius transitions and I have never heard of a failure there, so it can be done. But nothing can be done about the heat treat. All high volume manufacturers and heat treaters HT knives like below and there are few spots in that oven where the HT is perfect.

03aa1.jpg
 
OP - here's the (my) simple answer to your question: I have been beating the HELL out of mine through wood (numerous camping trips) for 4 years. The knife has had NO issues with the edge or spine. I have had it stuck in tons of logs and have had to wail on it with all of my strength many, many times. I would guess these broken ones we've all heard about are just rare defects... I say it's a great knife and you should get it.
It still seems like a great gamble, maybe you got one of "the good lot"

Though cold steel had recently changed steels for the RS, maybe this is an improvement?
 
Cobalt - I guess I just got a good one then because - like I said: I have been beating the hell out of it (as hard as I can in some cases) for FOUR YEARS.
 
Cobalt - I guess I just got a good one then because - like I said: I have been beating the hell out of it (as hard as I can in some cases) for FOUR YEARS.

I believe you. And there are probably more good ones than bad ones(definitely not probably). And if they indeed fix that transition, then they have done a good thing. I like the design of the RS and TM always have. Heck I have had several myself over the years.
 
Well, Scrapyard knives are all long radius transitions and I have never heard of a failure there, so it can be done. But nothing can be done about the heat treat. All high volume manufacturers and heat treaters HT knives like below and there are few spots in that oven where the HT is perfect.

03aa1.jpg

Now if Cold Steel could get that radius down... Also maybe the heat treat. I am still curious if the new steel is some sort of passive "under the radar" fix to the RS breaking issues.
 
Now if Cold Steel could get that radius down... Also maybe the heat treat. I am still curious if the new steel is some sort of passive "under the radar" fix to the RS breaking issues.

Could be. I mean they use 1055 with incredible success. If they did that with these, it would be tough, with less edge holding of course. But since they did away with the San Mai, my guess is that 3V is next.
 
My old SK-5 Recon Scout never failed. Only crossguard cocked up a little after throwing. But it was easy to fix.

dOUyfBT.jpg


But it's a beast. If you want one buy it. For now imho heavy and big knife isn't practical. Better to buy some folding saw - Bahco Laplander and smaller fixed blade innawoods.
 
Could be. I mean they use 1055 with incredible success. If they did that with these, it would be tough, with less edge holding of course. But since they did away with the San Mai, my guess is that 3V is next.
Well I still think that when 3V is released it will probably be over priced. What amazes me is the SRK has never had any breaking issues (in fact quite the opposite) so I really think the core of this issue is the design flaw. Just like the KA-BAR I think the sudden transition, even if *slightly* radiused will be weaker than something like the SRK where the tang has a pretty big radius. Look at Mora knives even, stick tangs that are VERY durable because of no sharp corners. It just seems to me casting the tang into the rubber/plastic without an added guard is a stronger option because you don't need an interlocking set of pieces that need 90* edges to fit together.

I think for now I'll get my friend an Ontario knife although you have me paranoid about heat treat now. Probably still less of a risk than the RS.
 
My old SK-5 Recon Scout never failed. Only crossguard cocked up a little after throwing. But it was easy to fix.

dOUyfBT.jpg


But it's a beast. If you want one buy it. For now imho heavy and big knife isn't practical. Better to buy some folding saw - Bahco Laplander and smaller fixed blade innawoods.
Trust me, both me and him are looking time advocates of saws. Just also big knives haha
 
Proper heat treat would certainly reduce the chance of failure. Problem with the large batch HT ovens there are zones of ideal HT and zones that are not. Problem is they don't know where that zone is so a batch of say 100 knives in one large batch oven maybe 15 are perfect, 70 are ok and 15 are terrible. Those 15 give the rest a bad name. That is Ontarios problem. But just radiusing the transition would keep failures down.

Wow! That is some interesting info. Makes perfect sense though. Thanks for that!
That explains some hit and miss Ontario reviews I've seen. A certain number of failures seems inevitable with that situation.

I have been beating the hell out of it (as hard as I can in some cases) for FOUR YEARS.
I owned a TM that I used like that (minus the batoning) and had no issues. If I remember correctly I let a buddy talk me out of it. That was in the late 80's and I'll bet it is probably still kicking!

Has the tang radius issue always been there with the TM and RS? I know they have had several manufacturers. Camillus made all the Carbon V models if I'm not mistaken. The heat treatment was probably more consistent and better overall at that time. Come to think of it I believe some of the failures were with Carbon V models also so I guess the build and basic design is the same.

What amazes me is the SRK has never had any breaking issues (in fact quite the opposite) so I really think the core of this issue is the design flaw.

I definitely agree with you on that. I have seen and read about some crazy stuff done with the SRK!
The only failures I'm aware of were related to the handle material and that was to be expected under those types of conditions. I actually wouldn't really count those as failures due to the handle being made of rubber.

Cobalt's info about the heat treatment definitely explains why some pieces do so well and others don't. If you got one of the bad ones and you add to that the tang issue, that is a recipe for disaster.
 
Well now I'm just looking for suggestions of similar (or slightly smaller) blades in the sub 150 price range.
 
I'd go with a CS SRK. The blade to tang is radiused. They make them is the super tough AUS8 as well as full VG1, and San Mai III
 
My understanding of that particular issue is that batoning is more stressful than chopping. A few Becker BK2s have been broken when batoning and they have full width tangs. Some knives just seem more able to handle this stress than others. Batoning technique also seems to be a valid issue. There are plenty reviews of the BK2 where the knife didn't fail when used for batoning or otherwise. Several years back someone posted a lengthy article about the proper batoning technique. He was using the most basic Mora with red wooden handles. One technique broke one and another didn't. I'll try to find the post or article.

I have several knives that are more than capable but I'm still curious about the Recon Scout's radius issue in regard to chopping. If chopping is less stressful. As with the BK2 there are many test reports of the RS that show the knife batoning and chopping with no issues. I've got to wonder if the RS's that didn't fail have been weakened from this activity and will eventually break or if the radius issue was overcome by "proper" technique. I had a CS Trailmaster that I beat the hell out of as far as cutting and chopping and had no problems. I have a RS that has done some chopping without issue also. In neither case was the knife used to baton. Both were purchased many years ago. Long before there was talk of any correction on the tang radius. I'm thinking that the RS may be fine as a chopper but questionable as far as batoning, allowing for "proper" technique if that is a valid question.

I'm still not sure what to make of the broken BK2s. Tang cutouts, user error, wrong batoning technique,QC issues,heat treatment? I suppose some of those elements could be at fault on the RS as well. I am a fan of both company's products so I'd like to get a true understanding of these issues.

There is a thread on a BK-2 breaking from chopping. The poster had the pictures and seemed credible... I find this completely incredible but there you go...

The issue probably has to do with vibration pattern: The BK-2 being incredibly massive mostly in the handle... There is probably not much vibrations going away from the tang into the short blade (the blade being actually shorter and less massive than the tang), so the tang is basically most of what vibrates, given its relative length and mass...

A smaller tang will vibrate less and be less easy to break, which is why you rarely see broken full width hollow handle tangs...

That being said, the BK-2 tang would not break so easily if it wasn't skeletonized.

The Recon Scout has sharp square inner corners, and don't buy any of the crap about those corners being now rounded off...: They would have come out with two pages glossy adds about it if they had done so... Cold Steel being all modest and subdued about a major change done to a twenty plus year old model? Really?

The convex geometry of the San Mai stuff is poor. My SMIII Trailmaster performed like crap chopping because the convex was so fat... I would say avoid the current San Mai III convex for that reason alone... (But not the San Mai SRK which is a good sharp hollow grind)

The handle on all these types of Cold Steels knives are way too thin to allow a good transfer of force while chopping: The Trailmaster and RS would perform way better with proper thicker handles and thinner edges...

Gaston
 
Just get a nice custom maker in a bigger size and 3V steel. I have a 6" Big Chris that I used as the only tool to get and prepare firewood for our week long family camping trip, and not only did it not break, it didn't get a mark on it, I didn't even have to sharpen it for that week.
 
Just get a nice custom maker in a bigger size and 3V steel. I have a 6" Big Chris that I used as the only tool to get and prepare firewood for our week long family camping trip, and not only did it not break, it didn't get a mark on it, I didn't even have to sharpen it for that week.

Well, that seems like a lovely option I can't afford.
 
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