is there any blade coating that is good enough to not spoil the whole can of beans?

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filtrum

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Jun 25, 2014
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i was to open just one can of beans. so it russia, it is kitchen, and it is impossible to find can opener, and i don't wear any (at home) as that is what a cheap pants that are made in China are - there you have the right pocket for a knife, there you have the left pocket for a hi-cri flashlight, and there you have... nothing more, as the back pockets are designed by some "who-the-hell-use-it-at-all?!" idea idiot. besides, i wanted to see by myself my contego coping well. so i pierce the can and the much-ballyhooed "cerakote tm" goes inside... >_< i couldn't even imagine it is SO soft! So i changed BK 810 for s-washed SMF, opened the can, throwed away 2/3 of the beans, ordered good pants, and am willing to know if anyone knows any good coating exists, b'coz, as from what i heard, even this jeasly cerakote is better than dlc... :( is it prohibited to wash a cerakoted blade with hot water, btw?
 
1st question, why are you opening cans with a knife?
SAK can opener
 
I open a can every now and then with a knife for sure! I've never had a hint of damage but I also don't own any coated blades.
 
Not sure why, but I found "much-ballyhooed" used correctly among the rest of the post odd.

On topic, I always thought cerakote was essentially "cooked onto" the blade, sorta like Teflon on pans. DLC is another coating method used...perhaps give that a whirl.

Or, abandon coated blades altogether, clean and dry them thoroughly after opening beans/Chef Boyardee.
 
Boron Carbide and Titanium Nitride coatings are quite good when they're applied with a true DLC process.
 
I wouldn't rely on any blade coating surviving a bean-can-opening totally unscathed
 
" clean and dry them thoroughly "
it was VERY hard to clean the 810 from every black piece of cerakote
 
Satin or stonewashed finish with a thin coating of mineral oil.
 
Put a P-38 in your wallet. Cheap, flat, and very effective for opening cans, using as small screw driver or pry tool.
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filtrum said:
if anyone knows any good coating exists, b'coz, as from what i heard, even this jeasly cerakote is better than dlc...
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it all depends on the usage. Some coatings are thin and some are thick. The thick ones last longer but the thin ones cut better. it's a trade off.


is it prohibited to wash a cerakoted blade with hot water, btw?
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No. You can wash any coating with hot water. Just like with uncoated blades, dry them afterwards.


filtrum said:
" clean and dry them thoroughly "
it was VERY hard to clean the 810 from every black piece of cerakote
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Well, that's part of the trade off. The 810 gets on the coating, not the blade, which is what the coating is for - to protect the blade. A coating that is easy to clean does not protect as well.
 
Don t all coatings wear off eventually? Few things are higher wear on a knife than trying to cut metal with your metal blade. I don t like coated knives.
 
SAK or a small can opener like others have said, the right tool for the job is far better than improvising.
 
DLC is really hard to scratch, and it really doesn't come off the blade easily, so I'd suggest checking that out.
 
KingMC said:
DLC is really hard to scratch, and it really doesn't come off the blade easily, so I'd suggest checking that out.
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Only if it's done right and even it can still come off. I have had it come off my KaBar Dozier the first time I cut cardboard it removed some of the DLC coating, my guess is they didn't coat my blade properly.
 
I personally wouldnt use a coated blade for food prep. I even hate these newer printed kitchen knives. Coatings you have to remember no matter how hard they are arent always incredibly durable. Yes the coating itself is very hard but its ability to be damaged or removed requires very little force in many cases. Its the bond of that coating that is most important. And even if the bond is really good that hard coating is incredibly thin. In many cases even softer metals can scratch and remove coatings simply because they are too thin, brittle and often applied to a bead blast finish which is more porous and isnt very resistant to abrasion. Some people have the false impression that a thin hard coating is going to make the surface of the blade hard. The only thing that is hard is the actual coating. You put that thin hard coating on soft steel and it doesnt offer too much protection unless the bond is strong.
 
Coatings don't last long in kitchens. These make life a little easier though.
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My answer to your "problem" is buy un-coated blades. I have a Buck Cabelas Alaskan Guide Series 192 fixed blade that has sort of a baked in blue-black coating which I doubt will peal off. Dad was always big on opening cans of beans in the woods with his pocket knife.
 
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