Is this rust? If so, simple way to remove? Thanks

Carolina River Rat said:
When you do the edge, go from spine to edge or you'll slice the bristles off the brush. Also go back and read the bits that I added to my first post.
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Yes, don't go edge to spine or back and forth along the edge. Take your time and go slowly or keep the band aids handy.
 
Ekdrm2d1 said:
yo.

I think my ESEE addiction needs to be put on hold until I can take care of my knives. I bought this ESEE-5, 1.5 months ago. It's a safe queen, I mainly just hold it in my hands. Do you know if this is rust forming? Or it is rust, already formed and ruined my blade? I'm a knife noobie (Started reading in July) so I'm not sure.

Of course, this is not rust rust, as seen on 50 year old cars at a junk yard. Maybe it's just rust forming?

I've been told I could use basically anything abrasive to fix it (If it's minor rust.)
I've also been told that I could use an eraser to fix it.

Can anybody please chime in? Thank you :D

(It's the brown stuff at the bottom end of the blade.)
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Edit: My next ESEE purchases will be a Junglas and Lite Machete. Was almost to the "add to cart" phase today :eek:
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You're in luck. The rust is in a place that makes for a very easy fix. JUST USE YOUR KNIFE.
 
use some polish like flitz or never dull. or since it's the edge you could give it a strop.

tbh like others said, the knife is just pissed - it's like a dog wetting the carpet if you don't take it outside :p
 
Going to the store, again.

I will coat the whole 5 (besides the micarta) with mineral oil/Rimington gun oil? (Or just the blade where it's rusting.)

Thanks
 
Thanks you guys.

I have a quick question. Somebody in this thread mentioned Remington's gun oil. I bought some spray. It includes Teflon lubricant. I assume this is safe for my blades?

Walmart did not have plain old Mineral Oil. They had pain thinner, Mineral spirits and other stuff.

I could not find a "hard" brush either, they only had mediums.

I want to start doing this ASAP, can somebody please chime in and let me know if using Rem Oil with Teflon Lube is safe?
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Thanks!
 
Whats wrong Dr M...you dont trust the advice i gave you on Slash40? I cant blame you, i dont typically trust peoples advice online without researching it either lol

Like i said over there, and many have said in here, just use anything you can find thats slightly abrasive to get it off. An eraser might work, but now that i know its on the cutting edge then i suggest using the back of a belt to get it off because the eraser will just get cut to pieces. After you get it off then put some gun oil or even 3-in-1 oil on it in a very light coat.
 
Hey there Sean.

I'm having a hard time getting the brown rust off. I've been scrubbing and scrubbing :confused:
Maybe it just takes time?
 
Teflon will work as long as you dont get it hot. Teflon breaks down into many different chemicals when its heated, one of them being hydroflouric acid which will cause your blade to rust in a matter of hours. It also releases toxic chemicals when it gets above 400deg that can give you Plume Flu(aka Teflon Poisoning) which sucks very badly. As long as you dont let it get extremely hot(like using it in a fire lol) then you should be fine.
 
sceraxn said:
Teflon will work as long as you dont get it hot. Teflon breaks down into many different chemicals when its heated, one of them being hydroflouric acid which will cause your blade to rust in a matter of hours. It also releases toxic chemicals when it gets above 400deg that can give you Plume Flu(aka Teflon Poisoning) which sucks very badly. As long as you dont let it get extremely hot(like using it in a fire lol) then you should be fine.
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Darn. :rolleyes:
Return said crap and go to a painting only store to get real mineral oil?

I won't be using it in a fire, but maybe when "SHTF" I'll be using it in a fire :p
 
Ekdrm2d1 said:
Hey there Sean.

I'm having a hard time getting the brown rust off. I've been scrubbing and scrubbing :confused:
Maybe it just takes time?
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Im not convinced that a toothbrush will do the job. I say try stropping it on the back of a belt would be your best bet, and youll also be sharpening the blade at the same time :thumbup:
 
Ekdrm2d1 said:
Darn. :rolleyes:
Return said crap and go to a painting only store to get real mineral oil?

I won't be using it in a fire, but maybe when "SHTF" I'll be using it in a fire :p
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Honestly man, with the small percentage of teflon in the oil and the small amount of oil that youll be using, i seriously doubt youll ever have any problems out of it. Theres such a small amount of teflon in remoil that youd have to literally cake it on for it to be a problem, which you dont want to do with a knife. Just put some on one end of the rag and wipe it on the blade, then use the clean end of the rag to wipe it off. You shouldnt see any oil on the blade when youre done, just a nice sheen.
 
My ESEE-6 that I got just last week arrived with some similar browinsh discoloring along the edge. Probably had been sitting on a shelf for a while. Not a biggie. Fixed it up over this past weekend.

But as others said, sharpening will remove this rust.

Just ran a fine grade ceramic rod along the edge until the rust disappeared. Wiped it down with some oil and it's good to go.

Now that you have a good knife, you should really invest in some sort of decent sharpening equipment.
 
I got a question.

Will 'removing this rust' bring the knife back to it's original state?
I think I'm doing this wrong. It's not really working. I can still see the 'brown' and see the outline where the brown rust was.

:confused:
 
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