Is this rust? If so, simple way to remove? Thanks

telll ya what dont let it be a safe queen ues it take care of it but ues it heck you can even ues it for cooking just ues the dam thing
 
You cut a lime, and didn't clean it. It ain't a safe queen anymore. :D

Spray it down with CLP, beat it through a couple of logs, then no more rust. You'll enjoy the knife a lot more if you actually use.
 
ha.
I'm "getting it" from all angels here :p

Time to close thread and bump when real rust problems occur?

I just bought a Lansky sharpener. Next thread will be me complaining on "how to use" the Lansky sharpener :p

Thanks for all the comments everybody!! :)
 
mo worrues. we all started out knowing nothing. some of us just learned various skills longer ago than some others.

noting wrong being a noobie, as long as you're willing and able to learn. :D

paying someone to sharpen your knives for you is silly. learn to sharpen, there's probably several "how to" threads out in the general knife discussion area. that does NOT mean you can't ask here, but i'm sure it's already been covered in detail out there.

different people use different methods to sharpen their knives, and they also use different oils. i use ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) on a lot of things as oil... but it's not really what i want to get on knives i'm using for food.

olive oil will work, baby oil is scented mineral oil. WD-40, CLP, Rem Oil, Mobil 1, etc... all will work. some are cheaper or more expensive, some are easier or harder to find, and some people just prefer one brand for some things because it's what they've always used.

i've been looking for plain "mineral oil" and not finding it at the hardware stores or wally world. i may have to try a paint store. i don't really want the baby oil scent.

some people even use Chapstick on the edge of the knife.

in a year or so, you should be able to take care of your knives without worrying about it.
 
mineral oil = butcher block oil. It's in the kitchen section by the cutting boards.
 
That is the ugliest ESEE 5 I have ever seen.

It needs to look something like this.











What you won't see on my ESEE 5 is rust...
 
I don't know why some others recommended oil and toothbrush....that might take rust/patina off after about a month of scrubbing. might as well use toothpaste.

a metal polish and a rag or a leather strop with compound would have got the job done in 5 minutes.
 
Now THATS a pretty 5!!!

2010935.jpg



Safe queen... cause the ESEE-5 is such a pretty art knife anyway, right?

(apply a generous amount of sarcasm for desired effect)
 
Howdy, I'm new and want to add my two cents. :)

One one, as advised above: abuse it! ;)

Two: force a patina! Which I'm not sure to do on the RAT ESEE knives with the coating. I have a (dare I say) RAT 7, thoroughly abused with the the coating coming off from batoning and chopping wood, digging poop holes, and striking a ferro rod. I want to patina it, but not sure with the remaining coating.

60821_126035237446709_100001207000141_149269_7056095_n.jpg
 
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To the OP...it's your given right to do what you want with your knife.
Most of us here won't understand your version of "abuse" to an ESEE
(making it a safe queen!)
But you do what you like with it.

Just remember, they are bred for glorious action and adventure - yours!

I always liked that poster of the ship tied to the harbor pier
and it's rotting.....the caption:
"A ship's safe ashore...but ashore's not what a ship's for."
 
Norton's honing oil is mineral oil and food safe. I use that stuff, or regular mineral oil from the pharmacy ( near the condum isle.) Actually , pic up a condum while your at it and keep it in your wallet. It's part of your survival kit , and not to carry water either. Lots of great stuff in the Pharmacy : oil , condums , breath mints , dental floss , etc. You don't know what the day will bring , but you know what to bring to the day. :D

I like rust. It means I got real steel : Esee steel :)
 
1066vik said:
mineral oil = butcher block oil. It's in the kitchen section by the cutting boards.
Click to expand...
Yes, and mineral oil IMHO > olive/canola oil because these oils will eventually "spoil" where a mineral oil won't spoil. Also IMHO mineral oil > gun oil because it's non toxic. Just MHO's though :)
 
Thaumaturgist said:
Yes, and mineral oil IMHO > olive/canola oil because these oils will eventually "spoil" where a mineral oil won't spoil. Also IMHO mineral oil > gun oil because it's non toxic. Just MHO's though :)
Click to expand...

Mineral oil can also be found in pretty much every pharmacy in the laxative section. Just a heads up for those who might not know.
 
Ekdrm2d1 said:
Gotcha. Good deal :thumbup:
I live in Houston, Texas.
Click to expand...

Ah! Well, there ya go, its just a little humid up there. ;) I have the same issue down here if I don't watch out and do my upkeep. The advice so far is excellent. :D

A buddy of mine that keeps his 1095 blade in a box in his carport....... well y'all get the picture. One nice red blade, not one spot left un-oxidized. It was kind of interesting looking none the less. :p

I almost bought it for a "whats the worst that can happen" scenario. Afterthought, yea, I really should have. :cool:
 
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