It followed me home (Part 2)

I've been keeping my eyes open for a froe and block knife. No luck this weekend at the antique shop/flea market, but I did find a few things to bring home. They were five bucks each, and I was only going to buy two until the guy selling them said how about three for $12.


Left to right, Walters black diamond, True Temper Lion, and Hults Bruk 0.6-1 1/4 from the epoxy filled head era.



Anybody know much about the Lion? A cursory googling doesn't reveal much.
 
Original handle on the Walters. The lanyard hole would have been added by an owner.

Yeah, I figured that was the case based on some of the pictures you and halfaxe have posted. :D In the right light you can just make out 'Hull' stamped on the handle. There are a couple of cracks but they are parallel with the blade so I think I can keep using it... well, once I put a wedge in it. Oddly enough it didn't have one and looks like the original just fell out somewhere along the line.
 
So odds are it's a Canadian axe unless True Temper kept the brand alive after closing the Welland facility and moving the operation to the states. Is that something they would even do or were the brands factory specific?
 
So odds are it's a Canadian axe unless True Temper kept the brand alive after closing the Welland facility and moving the operation to the states. Is that something they would even do or were the brands factory specific?

I'm betting that it was made in Canada, although the other scenarios probably can't be ruled out.
 
So odds are it's a Canadian axe unless True Temper kept the brand alive after closing the Welland facility and moving the operation to the states. Is that something they would even do or were the brands factory specific?

From yesteryear tools \/

"In 1965 the company officially became True Temper Canada, Ltd. and the works at St. Catharines were closed down."

"The Welland Vale name and some of the markings associated with the company were used on axes and hatchets made by the True Temper Company after they acquired the Welland Vale Mfg. Company."

Any way we could take a look at the profile of the axe? I own a number of Kelly and TrueTemper Dayton axes, they are fairly distinctive in my mind. Also given the time period if it was produced by TT I would bet that the eye would have ridges in it which would be a dead giveaway.
 
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I'm betting that it was made in Canada, although the other scenarios probably can't be ruled out.

I might be losing my bet, based on this bunch of True Temper stampings shown on the American Fork & Hoe Co. page at YesteryearsTools:

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True Temper LION appears at the far right. The caption mentions that "The Black Prince brand was made and marketed in Canada after the A. F & H. Co. acquired the Welland Vale Co", but there is no mention of the True Temper LION brand being made in Canada. Note that the True Temper BLACK PRINCE stamp (at bottom) is also stamped WELLAND VALE, but this doesn't appear with the LION stamp..
 
From yesteryear tools \/

"In 1965 the company officially became True Temper Canada, Ltd. and the works at St. Catharines were closed down."

"The Welland Vale name and some of the markings associated with the company were used on axes and hatchets made by the True Temper Company after they acquired the Welland Vale Mfg. Company."

Any way we could take a look at the profile of the axe? I own a number of Kelly and TrueTemper Dayton axes, they are fairly distinctive in my mind. Also given the time period if it was produced by TT I would bet that the eye would have ridges in it which would be a dead giveaway.

No eye ridges on this one.
 
No eye ridges on this one.

First impression is that your axe does not strike me as a TT or Kelly made axe. I have a Full sized DB, 2 pulp wood axes, and 5 hatchets made by TT or Kelly at this point. None of them seem to match the profile of your Lion. Is yours a full sized or a pulp wood axe? I can always post a pic of my paper label TT I have out on my work bench if you care to compare.

Nice looking axe BTW, that and the Walters were fantastic scores!
 

Ouch! Looking at this 'horribly offset' wedge kerf suggests this faux pas is a not a phenomenon typical of modern aftermarket handles. That particular tool wasn't assembled yesterday and was probably 'old' already 1/2 century ago. What does it really take to ensure a worker is instllled with the wherewithal to make a straight and centered cut?
 
Ouch! Looking at this 'horribly offset' wedge kerf suggests this faux pas is a not a phenomenon typical of modern aftermarket handles. That particular tool wasn't assembled yesterday and was probably 'old' already 1/2 century ago. What does it really take to ensure a worker is instllled with the wherewithal to make a straight and centered cut?

I don't believe that would be an original handle. Also look at the first pics, see the way it is fit.
 
First impression is that your axe does not strike me as a TT or Kelly made axe. I have a Full sized DB, 2 pulp wood axes, and 5 hatchets made by TT or Kelly at this point. None of them seem to match the profile of your Lion. Is yours a full sized or a pulp wood axe? I can always post a pic of my paper label TT I have out on my work bench if you care to compare.

Nice looking axe BTW, that and the Walters were fantastic scores!

Without having actually measured it, it strikes me as being a pulp wood axe... but I've still got a lot to learn about axes. It is definitely a small light-weight axe.
 
Without having actually measured it, it strikes me as being a pulp wood axe... but I've still got a lot to learn about axes. It is definitely a small light-weight axe.

If it's around 6" from bit to pole than its probably a pulp wood axe or as we call them a boys axe. That or if you have a chance to weigh the head it should be about 2.25 lbs if it's a pulp wood axe as well. Doesn't appear like it will be hard to pull it off that handle ;-)
 
If it's around 6" from bit to pole than its probably a pulp wood axe or as we call them a boys axe. That or if you have a chance to weigh the head it should be about 2.25 lbs if it's a pulp wood axe as well. Doesn't appear like it will be hard to pull it off that handle ;-)

It's 6 .25" long and weighs somewhere around 2.5lbs. I saw around because I had to use the bathroom scale and it's listed as a +/- 0.5lbs accuracy.
 
Finely got the paint stripped off the Gold Bond, the stripper cost more than the axe. I think that this is enough cleaning because any more like vinegar will ruin what is left of the stamp and I'm thinking that I'll make a miners style haft about 30'' long octagon. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rick

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Finely got the paint stripped off the Gold Bond, the stripper cost more than the axe. I think that this is enough cleaning because any more like vinegar will ruin what is left of the stamp and I'm thinking that I'll make a miners style haft about 30'' long octagon. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rick

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I can only talk about how I do it but here are some things I have to remind myself of. *I use a really sharp spokeshave to start them but others will use something else.

Octagons are cool but they aren’t the first thing that I look at. They are the fun part but doing them first makes removing material later harder for me.
1. Fit the head and even everything out horizontally and vertically – this leaves you able to run your spokeshave the same amount of times more or less. At this point fat is fine but being even makes it easier.

2. Make the shoulder equal on both sides and mark off the swell and where you want the flats to be.

3. Start at the shoulder behind the poll and flatten to the swell, flip over and do the same to the belly.

4. Do either side, then take down the edges for the 5-8th flats to as even as you can.

5. From there I usually pin it diagonally in my vise and use a fine rasp for the “edge flats” then flip and repeat, always working opposite sides to keep it more or less even (more hopefully).

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6. Remove electrical tape and pencil in where you want your swell to start and end. Spokeshaves don’t like sharp angles so draw a line around the flat that looks the farthest out and bring the rest to that one using a fine rasp. That is what I realized doing this double bit's rear end.:
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7. Using a white rubber hammer is helpful at the end so you don’t get black on the end for the final fit.

8. Be a little careful sanding as it is easy to lose an edge after you got them just right.

9. Raise the gran twice at least because you now have unnatural “sharp” angles that if lifted from say, spending the night outside or rain when using it, it can actually create the start of a runout to separate. This I only know from forgetting an early one after leaving it to dry… It became much “thinner” after that...




Blah blah blah - I learn something every time I try it and don’t know even a small portion of what some of the guys here know by feel.

That is going to be a terrific axe you are working on.

Please share how it goes!
 
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