It followed me home (Part 2)

The stamp is gone already as far as any value is concerned. Clean it up and make it a great user.

Thanks Square, I'm lucky that I could save it from the smelter mostly found down here are Michigan's and I'm guessing that it's ether a Jersey or Connecticut and my first, let alone a Mann Gold Bond and still seems to have a lot of life still in it 3# 5oz.
 
Agent thanks for the tutorial with pics, me thinks it would be best to try a hatchet handle first and just make a strait haft for the Gold Bond first. Mostly everything I have is for my personal use and collection.

But again thanks for the Cliff Notes.

Rick
 
Today's haul

P7300061.jpg I know I've seen this stamp before Back US something something can't read

P7300064.jpg M 2 1/4

P7300065.jpg Woodings-Verona

P7300066.jpg Great looking haft.
 
Today's haul

View attachment 651639 I know I've seen this stamp before Back US something something can't read

...

That's the W V T combination for Woodings-Verona Tool Works.

W-V-T-logo.gif
 
Yesterday I was working with a group of volunteers to clear land for a new disc golf course. One of the trees we took out was a small black locust. Naturally I brought a few staves home.

Staves%201.jpg


Staves%202.jpg


The stave on the right in the first photo is pretty straight and might make a decent haft. The center stave will likely be cut in half for hatchet handles. The one on the left might be broad axe haft material. We'll see what they look like in a year. I sprayed the ends with a thick coat of black enamel (what I had on hand) to help prevent checking during the drying process.
fingerscrossed.gif
 
I've never dried locust staves, so I have no experience with it. But if I remove the bark from hickory staves it dries so fast it will develop deep cracks along with the checking.
 
I've never dried locust staves, so I have no experience with it. But if I remove the bark from hickory staves it dries so fast it will develop deep cracks along with the checking.

I don't have experience with locust either. I've had good luck drying elm this way but elm is so split resistant to begin with.
 
Anyone have any ides on this, 2# 11.5oz FILO DE DIAMANTE

View attachment 651852 View attachment 651853 View attachment 651854

Thanks
Rick

There were some DIAMOND EDGE axes from Shapleigh with the FILO DE DIAMANTE stamp.

books


"For cutting woods in tropical countries a very fine specially tempered axe is necessary. It is this kind of Axe that the Shapleigh Hardware Co., St Lois, Mo., have brought out under the name of the "Diamond Edge" Iron-Wood. The blade is made of crucible steel and welded to a soft steel body. The eyes are punched from solid steel bar stock and will not stretch or break. The eyes are tapered from the outer to the inner opening to hold the handle firmly and prevent slipping."

from Hardware Dealers' Magazine, August, 1913, page 394
 
Thanks again Steve,my hats off to you!

Picked it up for 50cent, but I doesn't look that old, like 1913.
 
I did a little trade for these. Bottom right is Chinese but it was thrown in for free. The polished double bit is cool, it's a Plumb with Kydex sheath. The top double bit is a Rixford.

 
I got these today, the Snow & Nealley Pulaski is one of the nicer axes that I have come across in a while.




 
I got these today, the Snow & Nealley Pulaski is one of the nicer axes that I have come across in a while.

Don't see those around. Very cool.

I'm surprised the eye is so close to the adze end - or maybe its just the hang - wide shoulder.
 
P1010079.jpg

P1010084.jpg

The weird hammer (need help with this)
Old style hammer, no stamp, can anyone come up with an approximate date
Plumb octagon w/screw wedge all original

P1010081.jpg

Vaughn with eye ridges 3 1/2#
Falls City Charleston W. VA w/phantom bevels 4#5.2oz
Plumb Carpenters hatchet
 
I don't have experience with locust either. I've had good luck drying elm this way but elm is so split resistant to begin with.
I don't think there's much you can do except seal the ends.
Though Robert Hardy in his Longbow: a Social and Military History says something about keeping your bow-staves under water in a pond for a year or more.
 
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