It followed me home (Part 2)

I'm rasping the handle for that 2.5# Atha and and having a tough time figuring out if the mark and weight faces up or down- the eye seems pretty close to the same size on either end.


Up to remind the user or down?

I know the world has bigger issues :)

I'm meeting a fellow about a leg/pole vise tomorrow as well. Anything specific to avoid? Leg weld repairs or such? I know Square_peg has one bigger? than the one I'm eyeing. I've been hunting for one at a great price. Vises are awesome in and of themselves. Shipping them brings up the overall costs way up I am sure.

What size vise? How much? Watch for repairs, but honestly if it is to be a user, it works well and the price is right then it's not too important. You just don't want to pay "the going price because it is an antique blah blah" if is has welds as that kills collector value. A 4 inch vise in good working order can be had for $75-100 around here but regions may vary. They go up in size and weight and price from there. I saw an 8" post vise once. Two strong men would have a tough time moving it, and I was told that it was intended to withstand full repeated strikes from full size sledgehammers. It was for BIG work. These can go close to $1000 but are like hen's teeth.

As for the hammer- this isn't universal, but generally the logos are down in my experience.
 
Thank you for the tips: hammer and vise alike. I've only seen a couple of pictures of it -40" tall/ 4.5 jaws- right in the $ range you mentioned. It will be a user if it goes through.

Logo down, hmm. Have an 8# Skookum WPA sledge that is logo up- might be why it doesn't want to stay on securely. I didn't hang it but whoever did, it looks like they tried pretty hard.

This followed me home today on my way back from getting gas. Wilton wood vise- 15$.
The pics are dark but it seems solid.

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This double bit was painted with a couple of coats of black paint and red at some point. Just picked out some "wedging", wire brushed it, and removed some small nicks on the thicker end.



Looks like it may have belonged to a guy named Sam by the markings on the handle.



This thing doesn't like any of my files very much. "ting ting" is what it has to say when I tap it.

I was looking at yesteryeartools and see markings for hand forged, hand forged Vulcan, Kelly Charleston, Flint Edge, but not in this arrangement/combination.



Think it was made during some transition with the company or maybe there was more of an image on the eye that is just worn off?

I've got one, but it's got some thick black crud corroded into the stamping. Super nice steel, though. Ran into the same issue- nobody really seems to know much about this particular stamping...
 
Check the screw. The threads should have square corners - or at least nearly square, and no pitting. The 'box', the part that receives the screw should be undamaged. The spring should function lively - though it's not a big deal for a blacksmith to replace a spring - prybars make decent replacements. The donut is the bearing between the crank and the body of the vise. It should be smooth not pitted. A pitted donut will seize up the vise. A pitted donut can be replaced with an automotive throw-out bearing. The throw-out bearings work nice and smooth.
 
Check the screw. The threads should have square corners - or at least nearly square, and no pitting. The 'box', the part that receives the screw should be undamaged. The spring should function lively - though it's not a big deal for a blacksmith to replace a spring - prybars make decent replacements. The donut is the bearing between the crank and the body of the vise. It should be smooth not pitted. A pitted donut will seize up the vise. A pitted donut can be replaced with an automotive throw-out bearing. The throw-out bearings work nice and smooth.

Thank you for the check list. That is helpful as I'm not keen to pick a lemon then deal with getting rid of it. Wish I had more room for "stuff".
 
This followed me home a few months ago during my search for axes, and I plan to try and use it to peen back any mushrooming on my next rough axe find, so it kinda counts, right? I've needed a big hammer a few times and I finally have one. I have absolutely no idea what this thing is for, but it is definitely one good hammer. The head is a bit loose, so I'll have to pull the metal wedges and re-hang it (and sand the rough areas under the head...I'm wondering how it got like that). Should be a fun project. I am not sure who the maker is, but I think it says USA in the stamp, though I can't be sure.


Iron City

Awesome, thanks so much JB!
 
Hi! New here though have been lurking for a long time.

So these two decided that today was a good day to follow me home. Not sure what I have, only that the hatchet is made in Sweden and is 11/4 lb. The saw is a 6 footer with lance tooth and that is all I know. Hopefully I can restore it.





The saw,



 
This almost followed me home, and may still for use in the garden. Anyone recognize the stamp at all?

Edit: I should say it's a slip-fit hoe head, with an old, weather-beaten handle. And by the way the eye looked (i.e. split like and old axe eye), I'd say it's likely forged.



And speaking of forges, check this monster out. There was a massive hand-turned blower in the shop as well they wanted $250 or so for. The pictured is a cool piece, but I think it's rusted solid. And I think it's missing something, but I'm no forge expert.

 
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SCT100- Warwood? "War" up the left, "W" center, "ood" down the other side?

If it is, it must be an older logo- I have several Warwood tools but no diamond shape.
 
The saw is a 6 footer with lance tooth and that is all I know. Hopefully I can restore it.

Looks to have seen a good bit of use. The front to the saw has shorter teeth than the back. That's from repeated filings. It looks typical of farm & home saws from the day - which is to say that it is still a very good saw. Still usable with a sharpening. Those front gullets should be deepened.
 
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