It followed me home (Part 2)

AGENT_H
Your red maul is a Shipwrights Pin Maul. It was used when ships were built with wood decks. The eye is small because they have very thin flexable handles. I have one with an original handle (hickory of course) but can not post pictures. Sorry
 
AGENT_H
Your red maul is a Shipwrights Pin Maul. It was used when ships were built with wood decks. The eye is small because they have very thin flexable handles. I have one with an original handle (hickory of course) but can not post pictures. Sorry

Great information! I think that's what I may have as well. A quick google search (link below from the book Ship Handling) says the spike was used for drifting pins in association with the hammer. Thanks!

https://books.google.com/books?id=r...#v=onepage&q=shipwrights pin maul use&f=false
 
Nice score on the cast iron pans, best way to clean those up is in a Lye bath then vinegar.

What is that thing just left of the anvil, has a couple of wingnuts on it?
 
Nice score on the cast iron pans, best way to clean those up is in a Lye bath then vinegar.

What is that thing just left of the anvil, has a couple of wingnuts on it?

I believe that it is a saw sharpening vise. It is for sale if any of you saw guys has an interest.

The crusty cast iron pans I put into a campfire and let them sit in the coals. I collect them in the morning, all the junk is ashes. They get a steel wool in the sink and then I season them.
 
I believe that it is a saw sharpening vise. It is for sale if any of you saw guys has an interest.

The crusty cast iron pans I put into a campfire and let them sit in the coals. I collect them in the morning, all the junk is ashes. They get a steel wool in the sink and then I season them.

Problem with pans in a fire is that they might warp.
 
You're way better then me if you can get even heat out of a campfire. I don't do that as it takes a well built seasoning away at the same time.


In the glowing coal bed it's close enough. I only do this if the pan has to be "started over"- rusty or very uneven layers of black. I would never do this to a good well seasoned pan.
 
AGENT_H
Your red maul is a Shipwrights Pin Maul. It was used when ships were built with wood decks. The eye is small because they have very thin flexable handles. I have one with an original handle (hickory of course) but can not post pictures. Sorry

Thank you OldAxeman. Very much appreciated picture or no picture! Another specialized tool that has been left behind in memory as mechanization and modern materials take over. So they have been identified as ship mauls, top mauls, pin mauls, and grab maul/skipper. There definitely is a nautical theme with them.

Simmons Hardware Co. Manual Training Blue Book, Catalogue No. 776 (1912), p.19 (p.41 of the pdf.)

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http://www.blackburntools.com/artic...es/keen-kutter/pdfs/simmons-1912-no-776-i.pdf

Woodings-Verona Tool Works Woodings-Verona Tool Works Catalogue 16, p.53 (p.54 of the pdf.)

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http://www.blackburntools.com/artic...rchives/pdfs/woodings-verona-catalogue-16.pdf

As far as handle length, I wonder if it was up to application. I can count 5 I’ve come across in person (only bought the one) and they all had 36” inch handles. This long after their use, it’s entirely possible that they were rehung to be used/sold without their intended purpose in mind. The old scanned catalogs that I was looking at just list the heads and their specs but not the handle length. Additionally, Warren 1937 catalog’s grab maul and skipper came with a 36” “Best Hickory Handle”.

This isn’t a true test of their usefulness but I did try to use it to simply drive a hole in the ground using a 2ft steel stake to start a hole for one of those “mole sounders” in my backyard and decided that I lacked the feel and accuracy for the thing on a 36” handle – felt a long ways away from my target. Ended up using a 3lb hammer. Seeing SCT100’s link to the ship building process using one, I can see it being useful on a much shorter handle. There is also a similar head listed there called a “Railroad Spike Maul” that is similar in shape but the tapers kind of look like an elongated sledge bevel.

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There is mention in the Simmons catalog of them coming painted red with beveled sides – this kind of fits the profile of the one I have here. Mine is marked with F.P.S. (agency or company mark?) that looks like it was done by hand as the “F” on one side was flipped upside-down then remarked over the top itself – I was picturing the guy marking one side then starting the other side just to stop and realize he wanted it to read the same direction as the first side. There is also a partial mark under the weight that maybe someone here would recognize (I’ll get a picture).

Speaking of eye shapes, in the Woodings-Verona and the Simmons catalogs they refer to the round-eye chopping mauls as their “Oregon O Pattern”/”Oregon Axe Eye”/"Oregon Pattern" – Just interesting is all. To be honest, I didn't realize there were so many specialized hammer styles. If you get a chance to look through the catalogs, you should – they are pretty neat actually, especially the Woodings-Verona where the illustrations are quite well-done.

Oh, JB that is a great haul there! – you really hammered that one. ;)
 
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Agent_H, you just brought back a memory from my railroad days for some reason. I was what they call a High Spiker at the end of the line when we laid new ties down. We'd pound the high spikes that weren't driven down all the way, hard work but man was I in shape.

What we use too do with our spiking hammers before using them was to put the head on the ground beside you, where your hand would come to rest on the handle we would cut them just slightly above that. For myself, being 6'2", length would be be around 32-34 inches and that would be my tool every day.
 
AGENT_H
Your red maul is a Shipwrights Pin Maul. It was used when ships were built with wood decks. The eye is small because they have very thin flexable handles...

I was wondering why the handle would be thin and flexible, and now I'm thinking that it's to absorb some of the shock to the person holding the pointed end in place, when somebody else strikes the head with a hammer.
 
Got this one off ebay from JB. That was some fast shipping! Thanks JB.
I'm looking forward to hanging this one. It's going to the front of the project line.
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I was wondering why the handle would be thin and flexible, and now I'm thinking that it's to absorb some of the shock to the person holding the pointed end in place, when somebody else strikes the head with a hammer.

I like that... What I wouldn't like is being the new guy.

Rockman that is a great looking Plumb.
 
If you can lay your hands on a old O. P. Link catalogue you will be blown away by the array of handles that they made for obscure tools. Great useful info, with illustrations, in this catalogue. In 1991 I had a conversation with Mr Link himself. If I remember, he told me he was 92 an still came to work every day to make sure their products maintained quality. His shop forman, Leon, had been with him for 50 yrs. Sad what happened to the company after he died. Sad what has happened to tools period.
When I moved from our ranch in Montana 3 yrs ago, I removed the handles from the tools I intened to keep. Then I loaded USPS flat rate priority boxes (about 50 of them) with just the heads, up to the 70 lb limit, and mailed them to myself. Also sent 3 anvils in the boxes. I mailed the bundles of handles parcel post. I saved a lot of money. The wife wanted to know what I was thinking when I could buy "new" tools and handles. The post office told me " this is not what we had in mind when we started with the flat rate priority boxes".
I think you all will understand.
 
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