it impossible to find a descent knife.

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I think If I went multi tool, I would dive into a leatherman charge tti,
S30v blade on that, lighter titanium handles, yet a chunkyer tool for a bit more reassurence. Only 4 inch body too

I have a few multis already for specific outdoor activitys.
 
this thread is a little weirder than what I'd normally post in, but if there's a specific and sincere desire for advice I will give mine, for what it's worth.

I do believe, based upon my own experience, that there are few knives on the market which provide better value than a Benchmade Griptilian.

It's as robust as a folder needs to be, has an extremely dependable lock, is super light, comfortable to use, offers multiple clip mounting options, is corrosion resistant, is made from excellent quality steel heat treated appropriately, has great edge geometry, multiple options and is made in North America. It's also about 100 bucks.

I particularly like the corrosion PROOF model. It lives in my mountain biking backpack and sees the worst conditions. I use it frequently as well and it takes and holds a good edge.
 
I dont have cerebral palsy.

Glad to hear it. :confused: I don't have a wooden leg. :confused:

By the way, getting a knife that uses some alphabet soup steel (maybe that's what you meant by no less than D2? No less letters?) isn't going to "optimise [your] knowledge of use of folders in general in the field." That's like saying buying a Jaguar is going to make you a better parallel parker.
 
Glad to hear it. :confused: I don't have a wooden leg. :confused:

By the way, getting a knife that uses some alphabet soup steel (maybe that's what you meant by no less than D2? No less letters?) isn't going to "optimise [your] knowledge of use of folders in general in the field." That's like saying buying a Jaguar is going to make you a better parallel parker.

Well d2 is a tool steel, I dont want less than that, ill go up to some san mai, elmax, 3g or any other state of the art powder metallurgy blade material, cobalt laminate. Etc

For a folder I wouldnt think about 440 or common stainless steels, as a folder I would want as tough as possible in all its structure.
Edge retention would counteract time cleaning the damn things insides after processing and prepping foods. Its 1 less chore, could save me several hours a week added together, thats a further 8 miles a week distance travelled, thats maybe 20 days less travell overall, just because of using superior steel.
 
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Well d2 is a tool steel, I dont want less than that, ill go up to some san mai, elmax, 3g or any other state of the art powder metallurgy blade material, cobalt laminate. Etc

For a folder I wouldnt think about 440 or common stainless steels, as a folder I would want as tough as possible in all its structure.
Edge retention would counteract time cleaning the damn things insides after processing and prepping foods. Its 1 less chore, could save me several hours a week added together, thats a further 8 miles a week distance travelled, thats maybe 20 days less travell overall, just because of using superior steel.

Edge retention and toughness are two entirely different steel properties. 5160 is very tough. Is it "less" than D2? That's still not making sense to me.

And if you are so worried about cleaning the folder's insides....I would suggest a fixed blade.

And I thought you wanted a series of folders. Are you gonna take them all with you? That's a lot of weight.

Also...have you sharpened a knife before? I have...it doesn't take several hours. :confused:
 
Edge retention and toughness are two entirely different steel properties. 5160 is very tough. Is it "less" than D2? That's still not making sense to me.

And if you are so worried about cleaning the folder's insides....I would suggest a fixed blade.

And I thought you wanted a series of folders. Are you gonna take them all with you? That's a lot of weight.

Also...have you sharpened a knife before? I have...it doesn't take several hours. :confused:

Even if its laminated steels?

I have fixed blades.

It says on the first post the reason for getting several.

Im sure theres steels that are used for processing that need to be sharpened after every few cuts to prevent drag, that time over a week could add up pretty good, or be time/energy saved if they had powder steel.
I need to minimize energy excersions too.
 
Even if its laminated steels?

I have fixed blades.

It says on the first post the reason for getting several.

Im sure theres steels that are used for processing that need to be sharpened after every few cuts to prevent drag, that time over a week could add up pretty good, or be time/energy saved if they had powder steel.
I need to minimize energy excersions too.

You need to take a step back, read a lot more and come back with properly thought out and presented questions that people can actually answer. Your understanding of steels and knife use is next to nothing judging by your posts so far. You have to help us help you if you really are not just trolling the forum with this illiterate nonsense.
 
While nobody seems to have yet mentioned it by name, our Black Ninja Tactical Military Razor Sharp Stealth Folding Knife Fighting Survive Knife is an essential piece of weaponry perfect for those times when you happen to be dealing with an army of attacking ninjas, or simply a pesky, multi-syllable word. Obviously the inspiration for many of the knives already suggested, not only is it a "cool design" that happens to be a "popular and new style on the market," but this quality crafted, stainless steel knife boasts both a "clip in the back" and an "anti-slip, and comfortable handle."
Get yours today!
 
A folding knife that has to handle basic camp tasks... Hmm

Buck 110. It's been around for ages and will do just fine.
 
While nobody seems to have yet mentioned it by name, our Black Ninja Tactical Military Razor Sharp Stealth Folding Knife Fighting Survive Knife is an essential piece of weaponry perfect for those times when you happen to be dealing with an army of attacking ninjas, or simply a pesky, multi-syllable word. Obviously the inspiration for many of the knives already suggested, not only is it a "cool design" that happens to be a "popular and new style on the market," but this quality crafted, stainless steel knife boasts both a "clip in the back" and an "anti-slip, and comfortable handle."
Get yours today!

But does it come in "Sergical(sic) Stainless"?
 
Even if its laminated steels?

I have fixed blades.

It says on the first post the reason for getting several.

Im sure theres steels that are used for processing that need to be sharpened after every few cuts to prevent drag, that time over a week could add up pretty good, or be time/energy saved if they had powder steel.
I need to minimize energy excersions too.

I'd like to think I'm pretty good at reading. But I have no idea what you are asking or even looking for after reading all of the posts in this thread.

Why are you so concerned with sharpening knives if you are going to be carrying several??? Just use another one when the one you are using gets dull.

If you want serrations/part serrations then sharpening isn't really going to be all that viable. Sharpening a serrated knife takes A LOT LONGER than sharpening a plain edge. Pick up a fully serrated H1 Spyderco.

Laminating a steel won't really make much of a difference on the actual edge if you are using the same steel. 420j2 laminated VG-10 is still going to be equally as hard to sharpen as straight VG-10 unless you sharpen so much that you start making your blades as "skinny" as a paring knife.

And if you want to minimize the amount of energy you use, it would make more sense to carry a soft steel that you can touch up frequently, instead of carrying multiple knives.

I'll apologize if I mis-read you, but the majority of your posts - even outside of this thread - are pretty bewildering.
 
I'd like to think I'm pretty good at reading. But I have no idea what you are asking or even looking for after reading all of the posts in this thread.

Why are you so concerned with sharpening knives if you are going to be carrying several??? Just use another one when the one you are using gets dull.

If you want serrations/part serrations then sharpening isn't really going to be all that viable. Sharpening a serrated knife takes A LOT LONGER than sharpening a plain edge. Pick up a fully serrated H1 Spyderco.

Laminating a steel won't really make much of a difference on the actual edge if you are using the same steel. 420j2 laminated VG-10 is still going to be equally as hard to sharpen as straight VG-10 unless you sharpen so much that you start making your blades as "skinny" as a paring knife.

And if you want to minimize the amount of energy you use, it would make more sense to carry a soft steel that you can touch up frequently, instead of carrying multiple knives.

I'll apologize if I mis-read you, but the majority of your posts - even outside of this thread - are pretty bewildering.

Appolagie accepted.
 
You need to take a step back, read a lot more and come back with properly thought out and presented questions that people can actually answer. Your understanding of steels and knife use is next to nothing judging by your posts so far. You have to help us help you if you really are not just trolling the forum with this illiterate nonsense.

What Haze said. Coping, your horrific spelling and grammar is hiding the real problem...which is that you really don't know much about knives. "No less than d2 steel I would think." makes no sense whatsoever, even though its spelling and grammar are fine.

There's nothing wrong with not knowing much about knives. Everyone was there at some point. This is a great place to learn. Great place.

Best advice about knives I can give you?

Read more and post less.
 
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