Its not an axe...what do i do with it (Pic heavy)

rjdankert said:
That's a homemade supplementary handle (see my post above). They can be used on the back for one man or moved to the front for two man.

Plate is looking good. :)

Do you want your saw to look like this one when your done?


Wish I could say this is my saw. I don't remember where the picture came from. Compliments to the owner. It's a Henry Disston & Sons Perforated No. 514 Spring Steel. A perforated lance tooth design. 3.5 Ft.
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That saw looks like a good goal to shoot for. I missed what you were saying in your post above...had to go back up and re-read it. I will get on ebay and see what I can find as soon as i get back from trying to get these other saws. Thank you.

if the deal goes through i'll post a pic on here
 
Well he wouldn't let the saws go do low enough so I had to forgo the scythe, but I know where a couple of those are hiding around town so in not too worried about it. Otherwise it was a successful run.

 
rjdankert said:
A friend had this in his shop.

I got tired of seeing it and took it home with me one day.

Found a picture of the shape I wanted on the web.

Scaled it and made a pattern.

Used the saw plate and transfer punch to locate the holes for the saw nuts.

I marked the outline of where the saw plate would sit in the handle.

I don't remember what kind of saw (power or hand) I used to cut the kerf in the handle.


Here is the end result.


I didn't put a finish on it as I didn't want to embarrass myself. My friend has refinished furniture for 30+ years. :D
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Amazing handle, BLO on it would be good enough i would think! you ought to be proud of your job, mate!~
 
The saw blade is done...it looks a little weird because I slapped a coat of BLO on it as soon as I dried it off to prevent rust while I sort out the handle. Can't find a stamp or etch anywhere in it

 
Well now, jackpot on the others - they have the hardware on them! rjdankert, nicely played right there. So yeah, the making the handle part would make a nice project - although I know I could foresee myself screwing up the kerf. The missing hardware is still kind of a troublesome issue, though I see lots of them for offer on the bay.

rjdankert, how are the square cuts done in the holes?
 
I got an order in for the hardware last night, so it's a waiting game for it to arrive now....also looking around for a good picture of a handle I like to go with this saw so I can replicate the process rjdankert linked. Although I may just borrow the one you linked. Yours came out really nice.
 
Yeah, the handle design he used is really classic. I wonder if maybe the simpler style was used on these bucking saws though, to accommodate awkward positions? The classic hand saw style worked great in a workshop where things are nice and comfortable.
 
cityofthesouth said:
. . . So yeah, the making the handle part would make a nice project - although I know I could foresee myself screwing up the kerf. . .
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It was a fun project. I am 100% positive that you would not screw up the kerf!

cityofthesouth said:
. . . The missing hardware is still kind of a troublesome issue, though I see lots of them for offer on the bay.

rjdankert, how are the square cuts done in the holes?
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I've gotten nuts off ebay for my handsaws with no problems. If you are replacing, look for the size you need.

The screws have a shoulder like a carriage bolt.
 
Alan2442 said:
I got an order in for the hardware last night, so it's a waiting game for it to arrive now....also looking around for a good picture of a handle I like to go with this saw so I can replicate the process rjdankert linked. Although I may just borrow the one you linked. Yours came out really nice.
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Sorry, not sure which handle you are referring too. This would be the shape you would want for the bucking saws:
IMG_1136_zpsdo6ptumx.jpg


My suggestion would be to start with what's left of the handles you have for a template and sketch in the missing bottom part.

This site http://www.blackburntools.com/articl...1937-no-14.pdf
has a lot of old tool catalogs. You can dig through them and find illustrations.
 
Thanks Rjdankert...I'm going to grab some wood for the job today...now if I could just figure out where my coping saw went after I cut off that last batch of handles. I remember hearing it fall but I was in the zone working on one of the axes and thought "I'll get it later" and now I have no clue wether it fell :confused:
 
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Thanks...I'll update it again as I get a chance to work on the saw. Although it's really everyone else's input that is making it such a great thread.
 
Great looking saw and am really impressed with what you ended up with after the vinegar bath. That, properly sharpened and with new handles, will be a real workhorse. Shovels. The only ones I will look at twice are forged solid shank shovels. True Temper/Ames still makes them, but its really hard to find someone local that actually sells them. I found a solid shank TT irrigation shovel at my local Ace hardware that had been in stock for quite some time judging by the number of price stickers on it - got it for $22.50 which was a steal. I find that the used shovels that have been around for a long time are much better than new as they are "work shaped" if that makes sense. Old forged solid shank shovels that have been used alot develop their own distal taper as the blade is basically ground down through abrasion and they cut soil/sod so much easier than new ones - they never have to be sharpened and dirt/clay has a hard time sticking to the blade because the steel has a polished finish. If you go out on an old traditional residential foundation crew that digs the footings by hand, the old guys on the crew will have their own personal shovel - I have witnessed more than once, a newbie getting his butt chewed for borrowing the foremans shovel.
 
stevewest said:
Shovels. The only ones I will look at twice are forged solid shank shovels. True Temper/Ames still makes them, but its really hard to find someone local that actually sells them.
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I look for shovels that are closed on the back so they don't get packed with dirt. I still find them at yard or estate sales from time to time.
 
Square_peg said:
I look for shovels that are closed on the back so they don't get packed with dirt. I still find them at yard or estate sales from time to time.
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I dragged these out from behind my shed; to illustrate the difference between a forged shovel and a pressed steel version. From blade wear on them you can readily tell which ones are preferred by hourly workers by virtue of being lighter in weight and having a shallower scoop. The forged one happens to be a TruTemper that I would have bought new in the mid to late 80s. Forged blades are considerably more sturdy (metal is thicker and likely better steel) and are well worth seeking out if you want a shovel blade that lasts a lifetime.

shovels%20001%20Medium_zpsdta6rup0.jpg


shovels%20002%20Medium_zpsiwtnju9g.jpg
 
300Six said:
I should have taken better care of these but hourly-paid 'skins' that don't/won't clean fresh concrete off shovels (and hoes and rakes and...) was a constant battle for 25 years.
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I did some digging, and it appears that Home Depot sells a concrete disolver that won't harm the metal for shovels and such...It's called Mean Klean. They didnt have any in the store, and told me it was a 6 week wate to get it in. I don't know if that is everywhere or just Alaska. I will probably order some here in the future and see how it works.
 
Alan2442 said:
I did some digging, and it appears that Home Depot sells a concrete disolver that won't harm the metal for shovels and such...It's called Mean Klean. They didnt have any in the store, and told me it was a 6 week wate to get it in. I don't know if that is everywhere or just Alaska. I will probably order some here in the future and see how it works.
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Muriatic acid (ordinary store bought stuff for cleaning bricks and mortar joints-30 years ago) worked great for softening dried cement and I don't recall this liquid being hell on steel (but the off-gas stink (especially if limestone was involved) was downright rude) but nowadays if something actually works but isn't Green-derived it likely has been restricted or banned outright and you then have to tolerate lime and cactus juice (etc) concoctions that do very little but empty your wallet.
 
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