JB Weld for scales?

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Hookus

Hookus

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Has anyone tried using JB Weld for gluing handle scales? I have had some problems with epoxy.
 
It would work very well for scales, but people usually don't use it for that because it is not clear.
 
What types of problems have you been having with epoxy and what type of epoxy have you been using?

Craig
 
Loc-tite 2 ton epoxy. It seems that it does not bond the handle inserts well. Perhaps it was sanding/shaping the inserts that loosened them? I had one pop off, and all of the epoxy was still on the insert, there was not any on the handle. I made sure that the handles were free of dirt and any greae/oil, and I am positive that the epoxy was mixed correctly. The only reason I mentioned JB weld, is because I remember that stuff bonding like, well, a weld, to metal.
 
Make sure you rough up the tange where the epoxy will be. It needs to have something to grip against.

But yeah, also be careful of heat and vibration after you've let epoxy set, either or both will work together to make the epoxy let loose
 
With epoxy make sure both surfaces are a bit roughed up and CLEAN. When cleaning tangs, I always wash them, use windex, rinse 'em again, and then put them on a heat register to dry. Ditto for micarta scales. Then I try not to touch the parts that will have epoxy on them at all. Clamp/pin/peen, and leave it be for at least 24 hours! VOILA!
 
I use acra-glass. It works good and if you ever try to remove a set of scales, they will be destroyed. Rule of thumb for epoxies, the slower the set when mixed properly, the stronger the bond.
 
Has anyone tried using JB Weld for gluing handle scales? I have had some problems with epoxy. [/B]
Click to expand...

Okay,,,I have tried both 2 ton and JB..

Here is what I have found true...

2 ton will fail if things are not done correctly

JB will fail too,

I have found that JB holds like a darn, but that its not the right color...and at first I didnt think the color was important, but I have come to see that the "WRONG" color makes the handle look crappy


JB will not bond to things like plastic..so JB cant be used for everything

2 ton is cheap to buy, and very easy to use. You cant goof up the 50/50 mix because both amounts come out at the same time.

Jb is very easly goofed up due to the way you have to make a judgement call as to how much of each to squeeze out...

thats abouyt all I know about epoxy so far....

(Oh by the way I use both JB and 2 ton and except for my goof-ups where Im at falt, both have worked very good for me)
 
I use mostly JB Weld and mix black powder from Koval to color it black. It does however expand (like Robert says) a little and can even crack a hidden tang stag handle when it cures so just leave some air inside to absorb the expansion. It bonds to metal better than anything Ive tryed except maybe acraglas.
 
I almost always had "issues" to deal with when using epoxy

I had fewer issues with JB Weld

I have had zero issues with Acraglas

Some of the issues solved by moving to Acraglas:
- no bubbles
- no "moving"
- more work time
- less tacky - easier to mix/work with

The only drawback - more expensive, not "off the shelf"



To answer your question: sounds like JB Weld will do the job you need. I'd give it a shot. It's readily available, easy to mix. Just keep it thin - don't goop it up all over your blade like epoxy.
 
Don't attach your handles with any glue !! All "fixing" should be done with pins, rivets, screws etc.

Sorry, couldn't resist saying that ;)

Seriously, I think its risky to rely on any adhesive to attach anything - all are sensitive to SOMETHING. Epoxy will soften with heat, for example. I've not had any problems with Devcon 2-tonnne (30minute), other generic 2-tonne formulations or the Araldite super-strength epoxy (30minute). But thats because my handles are rivetted as well, so maybe if the adhesive failed, I just haven't noticed any adverse effect.

For your project, is it possible to include some blind pins, partly going into both the inlay as well as the underlying material ? The epoxy would probably stick a lot better. Jason.
 
okay, okay okay,,,,I have heard you guys like Ed Fowler talk about how great acraglas is,,,,well,,,okay...Im convinced.

and Im interested...

But I do a handle now with JB or 2 ton and it only sets me back about $3 or $4 at most...so how much will this acraglas set me back per handle?
 
Personally, I use Acraglas Gel (others may use the regular stuff - opinions differ). You can get either one at Brownells' online store:

www.brownells.com

gel: 081-015-004
$12.81
(looks like they are out of stock) :(

kit: 081-014-004
$20.20


Looks like there are better places to get the stuff...:confused:



I put "Brownells Acraglas Gel" in a search engine and got this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteproduct/502829
$16.99 for the gel kit

http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteproduct/373783
$14.99 for the regular kit



You get 2 oz. of resin + 2 oz. of hardener.

Epoxy comes in 1 oz. (total)

So...$13 for 4 oz, vs. $3-4 for 1 oz. ;)


Go to http://www.acraglas.com & http://www.acraglasgel.com for more information.
 
I should mention that I still use JB Weld for gluing up fiber spacers...nothing else I've used has been better. Example: when I glue up a handle, it's pretty rough...(see the thread "glue-up trick for newbies :) )...so I end up doing a bit of grinding after glue-up. JB Weld hasn' failed me yet, but epoxy has every time...
 
okay....now I dont use JB much now because of the color problem, and you said that you add Black color to it correct?

I have seen the Epoxy Colorants stuff in the Texas Knifemakers supply website, if I understand correctly, you mix (a few drops?) into the already mixed epoxy?

and...

So are you saying that $13 for 4 oz, compared to $4 for 2oz..(and I get about one handle for each JB I buy),,,so that means I could likely get 2 handles out of the Acraglas Gel?
 
knifekits.com make glow in the dark empoxy additive too. I have not tried it, but I know someone etched a design in a balisong handle, then filled it with that stuff, essentially making a glow in the dark design. Glow in the dark may not be the thing for most of you, but I think it would have some pretty cool applications.
 
I use Jb, leave room for expansion of course but I'm pretty agnostic on it vs. Epoxy. I also make sure to use pins as well as the jb for added strength so I've never tried to rely on it exclusively. Use a darker wood or stain for color concerns.
I have had real good luck with epoxy though and you can make that any color you want. But none of my knives I've made with jb have failed while I have had some epoxy fail pretty badly when it gets hot out but that may be user error. Jb defo seems more idiot proof if I haven't managed to mess it up lol
 
Hookus said:
knifekits.com make glow in the dark empoxy additive too. I have not tried it, but I know someone etched a design in a balisong handle, then filled it with that stuff, essentially making a glow in the dark design. Glow in the dark may not be the thing for most of you, but I think it would have some pretty cool applications.
Click to expand...
I'm trying to party with this guy! Glow trails on balisongs..don't threaten me with a good time..🤣
 
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