just a couple questions. please advise

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d.weglarz13

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Jun 4, 2008
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hey guys. I was wondering something about putting a handle on a hidden tang knife. are there different ways of putting a micarta handle on a hidden tang knife that has a very thick blade(maybe 1/2", custom kukri) besides drilling out a solid piece of material? i can't see getting the fit right if i drill it out with mostly simple tools, and i am not a good welder, so i can't weld on a threaded tang for a pommel. I was thinking cutting two slabs of micarta or wood, with a spacer of some sort as thick as the tang for in between the two slabs. I don't know how strong this would be for a knife like a kukri that will be used for bushcraft, or if there are other better ways for doing something like this. As you may have guessed, i am reasonably new to knife making, especially hidden tang knives, and am confident in my skills with hand tools, but need something strong. should i use pins? or something like corby rivets? Thanks so much for the patience, please no cruel comments, just trying to get started with what i have.
 
sorry, forgot to mention that i don't have a router, so if I did have to drill or carve out a space in material for the tang, then i would have to carve it by hand, and am not sure how much room for error i have. Thanks again for reading this fellas.
 
If you will make the blade in future I agree with psycho, do it full tang if you want it strong. But if your have a hidden tang blade and you are making a micarta handle the best fit you can do with minimal tools and experience is mortised tang. Also if you put some corby rivets it will be strong enough I assume. Think about japanese swords. They have also mortised-ish type of tangs and they are durable (so they say - I don't have one)...
 
Your idea is a good choice for someone with little experience or equipment.

Take a piece of material the thickness of the tang (or a little thicker), and mark the tang on it. Cut out the tang area with a coping/jig/band saw. Trim as needed to get a fair fit (doesn't need to be all that snug). This will get sandwiched between the two outer scales. The assembly should be glued together on the tang with a good 1 hour epoxy and either rivet pins or Corby bolts. Shape with files and sandpaper (wrap the blade and bolster in tape to protect it and you), unless you have access to a belt grinder.

Good luck, and keep up posted with photos.
Stacy
 
hey guys thanks. that is kind of what i was looking for, actually it is what i was figuring on doing if there weren't any better ideas. the reason for the knife NOT being full tang, is that the knife is a Cold Steel Kukri(i know, too expensive, but i got it for cheap) that has the rubberized handle, i think it is kraton. i felt that i could make a decent knife much better quality and appearance by removing the handle, and putting on something nicer like some micarta or stabilized wood. the tang is more or less a hidden tang, and i want something that will be amazingly strong, so i can actually use it for some serious outdoor work and fun. are there any other ways of doing this, other than what is described above(the only way that i have found on line, that doesn't require welding) that I can look in to? also, it might sound silly, but what exactly do pins do? and should i use them? thanks again for the advice everyone, i greatly appreciate you guys taking the time to help me. oh, and i will post pics when i hopefully work this out. can't wait to start!
 
Sounds like you're having fun and thinking things through before you do them. The pins will provide shear strength to keep everything in place. I'm looking forward to seeing your work. And I think it's great to rehandle a Cold Steel blade! Never was partial to rubber handles.
 
Pins can be used in two ways, one to hold the handle together if the glue fails and second to transfer the forces from the blade to the cross section of the handle. Sound like you need both. Corby bolts are a little tough to install since you need to get the alignment perfect. You have not said if the tang already has holes and if so what size. If the tang is heat treated its nearly impossible to drill the holes.

Micarta would be my first choice, you can get blocks and cut a slot for the tang and fill with liquid steel or slabs and cut out for the shape of the tang and then glue together. I would consider pins or loveless bolts in either case.
 
I would make a channel in both scales for the tang. I mostly use a dremel with a spiral cutting bit, and the depth guide thing for this. Use pins/rivits if you can
 
oh cool. firstly, there is only one hole that was used for a thong hole in the bottom of the tang. i was wondering if anybody knows if i can use this for a large pin, maybe mosaic if not too hard to cut and file? again, all hand filing and sanding, no power tools really. the hole is about 5/16", so i am not sure if i have to get a pin this size, or if it should be 1/4" and it is a little bigger for epoxy or solder or something. will this be okay to put a pin in for strength factor? the tang is also 5/16" thick, so i was assuming i probably can't drill another hole or two with a small electric hand drill, right? as soon as i start i will post pics, but I still am not sure if i can get my handle to shine at the end without using a high speed buffer. can i do something like that with like 2000 grit and steel wool? or it still won't come out as shiny as like, lets say, the fred Perrin spyderco street beat knife handle, except larger? really trying to go for that polished look, but i do understand that i might need to purchase an electric polisher or buffer(or both together) if i can't do it by hand. thanks so much, i know its alot. oh, and linen micarta should be fine, right? or should i go with a hard wood.
just want to see what you guys think.
 
Looks like the pins are a no-go unless you can drill the tang with is probably not likely. Micarta does not polish very wells but you can sand to 1000 and get a pretty good look. Linen micarta has a fine finish, canvas micarta is really rough. You can get a decent shine on black linen micarta. If you have a hand drill micarta will polish pretty easy using a sears attachement.

I just looked at a pic of the Kukri, go with the micarta you dont want the handle coming apart during chopping. If I were you, I would find some way to drill through a micarta block to make my handle. The joint between to pieces of micarta may be too weak for heavy chopping. Its time consuming but I think will turn out much better. All you need is a drill bit longer than the handle and the about the same thickness.
 
oh, and does the channeling in both halves for the tang make it stronger? i wanted to make a VERY strong handle without using an electric tool like the dremel, but i will if this makes any beneficial difference. thanks again. sorry for so many questions.
 
sorry, just read the last post. doesn't the hole for the tang have to be exactly PERFECT fitting, or can i just get it close. I wouldn't mind doing it this way if it is stronger, i just want it to hold forever with heavy chopping. thanks for the tip on the sears polishing attachment, i am guessing i should by some kind of compound for the linen micarta? oh well, the size of the hole is my issue right now. thanks
oh, and what about putting in something like a mosaic pin into the thong hole handle for aesthetic purposes? it wouldn't help strengthen it, though?
 
and is there another way to get the hole in the block of micarta a perfect fit if it has to be? again, i dont have a router, but if i can get it perfect with a drill bit, i will. thanks.
by the way, ALL of your advise is very important to me, really nice of all of you.
 
I am saying using one block 1" x 1 1/2" x 5", drill and carve out a hole the size of the tang. If you are going to channel into the scales (ususally 3/8" x 1 1/2 x5 each) I would channel just one to keep the glue seam away from the force of the tang. If you have the handle off the Kukri, chop something (carefully) and you will feel how the chopping force is tranfered into the handle. Most occuring at you index finger.

Micarta is not hard to work, you can cut the channel with a sharp chisel. I would lay the tang on the micarta piece, outline with a hobby knife or sharp knife. Use the chisel to cut out to the line. Put the tang in the indent made, marke again with the knife and carve out. This way you get a really tight fit. Work in the center of the scale and get your handle together before you shape. Once you have it deep enough drill through the existing hole for you lanyand, put the pieces together and drill the other side of the lanyard hole.
 
I dont think the very end will provide much strenth, if you are putting in a mosic pin just drill through one side with the same diameter as the pin, then match the sides and drill the other.

I would use a block, it will be the strongest. If you get lucky the thickness is close to 1/4" and most drills are close to 5". How long is the handle??
 
is drilling out the block with a drill bit going to be a tight enough fit? I don't see why it would be too hard this way, but the tang is tapered a little on both sides. i am assuming i should use the bit at different angles to get the right size hole? btw, the tang is about 4 and a half inches, so i was figuring on close to a 5" handle. does this sound right? thx
 
You have to be carefull to get the good fit. The fit top to bottom needs to be the tightest. You can fill with epoxy or I use liquid steel. you can drill at a angle the top and bottom hole to match the taper. Lay the tang on the block and clearly mark where you need to drill and take your time.
 
I think so, epoxy is probable strong enough if done right. I use a lamp to insure that the glue does not get cold, stay about 80F.
 
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