just a couple questions. please advise

what about stopping the blade from flying out of the handle under heavy use? this is what i was thinking about the pins for, but what should i do , now that i can't drill through the blade tang? (haven't tried yet, figured wasn't worth going out to buy the drill bit.) is there an easy way to put indentations in the spine and underside of tang for the epoxy to hold? what if i use the thong hole at the bottom for a pin like this, or maybe not strong enough at the bottom of the tang? thanks guys for your patience.
 
Your question about securing the blade so it won't fly out of your hand is a good one. Heavy chopping for extended periods of time can fatigue your grip. Add sweat or rain to this and you have even more risk of losing your grip. The lanyard hole is important for these reasons, for its were a wrist wrapping thong can be installed. For instance, I believe the blade cutting competitions require this. If you do this, and I suggest you do if this is going to be a real working tool, then you're back to needing to drill through your tang to pin you handle material to it. Some folks drill tang holes to add joint strength too. The holes get filled with your adhesive so there are epoxy pins, if you will. They also barb the tang so there's additional hold and undercuts for the adhesive.

Have you done any hardness testing on the tang yet with files, scratch awls or center punches. Do you really not have a drill? Can you access craigslist.com for you area? You would likely find one there, or at a yard sale, thrift store, pawn or second hand shop fairly cheap.

Also, did you say the blade and/or tang material is 1/2" thick? If so, that's got to be one HEFTY chunk of steel. Or do you mean the width of the tang is 1/2"?
 
well i am not sure if i said it, but about one of the only power tools i have is a drill, but in no means a great one. i have not done any hardness test yet, as i figured a finished blade like this is already hardened pretty good, but i am sure i could be wrong. if there is a way to drill through it, then thats what i want to do, but i think someone said something about annealing first, and i had a hard time finding too much out about this. the tang is tapered on both sides from about 3/4" wide to about 1/2" wide at the bottom, and is 5/16" thick. I don't really understand the thong hole thing, seems to me like if it were to ever be needed, it would swing and cut me rather than fly across the woods, but thats me. if i can drill it, then i will put some pins right through for strength? thanks for the patience.
 
Fit you handle first, and do a test hole to see if you can drill the tang. If you can, drill with the handle in place. This will save you trying to align the holes afterward. Make sure you give your pin type/size some thought and drill appropriatly.

Some of the competition cutters have moved the thong hole to the front because of your concern. Could be and good update if you can drill, use a rivit rather than a front pin.

good luck

good luck
 
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