Just Bought a Huge Hunk O' Leather. What Am I Looking At?

redsquid2

redsquid2

Rockabilly Interim Pardon Viscount
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Aug 31, 2011
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This is the biggest hunk of unfinished tooling leather I have ever seen IRL. It just arrived from an ebay seller. He said it was a "single shoulder." I want to be sure and avoid any softer leather when making sheaths, and you guys say the softer leather is on the belly. Looking at my photo, I am not sure which part is up high on the cow, and which part is lower. I would guess that the "top-left" of my picture is where the head and neck are. Or maybe the lower left is where the head and neck are. Thus, you see that I do not know what I am looking at.

Is there any material here I should avoid when making sheaths? Thank you for your help.

Andy/squid

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Here is a picture of the edge. It looks like it is easily the advertised "8-9 oz." The "hair" side feels good to the touch too, like quality stuff. :)

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That outline I posted is probably being generous but really you can use most of it just dependent on what you are using it for. Not sure how much you paid for the hide but I would recommend just going with say springfield or RJF or WandC or something like that. Zack white leather can be ok also. Get a good double shoulder or single shoulder. The only thing I see with this is it looks like it is a little loose grained. It should still work out fine for starting out.
 
redsquid2 said:
Here is a picture of the edge. It looks like it is easily the advertised "8-9 oz." The "hair" side feels good to the touch too, like quality stuff. :)

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you can buy tools to shave it down try to make something beside knife sheaths like a belt or...
 
quint said:
That outline I posted is probably being generous but really you can use most of it just dependent on what you are using it for. Not sure how much you paid for the hide but I would recommend just going with say springfield or RJF or WandC or something like that. Zack white leather can be ok also. Get a good double shoulder or single shoulder. The only thing I see with this is it looks like it is a little loose grained. It should still work out fine for starting out.
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Paid $40 + 10 S&H. Seller's ebay I.D is theleatherguyofmn [the leather guy of minnesota]. Thanks for the recommends on the other suppliers.
 
Andy, just out of curiosity, how much did that run you?

Edit.
Posted at the same time. Lol
 
May be alright would have to see it to tell. Use it up and try shopping around trying different tanneries leather and see what ya like. Just in general stay away from the imported stuff, some can be good but usually not all that great.
 
That may be okay to use and quint has given you a really good idea of what is best in that piece. Take a look at the flesh side of the leather. The best stuff will be all uniform and very tight grain with very little fiber showing. As a note, I just bought double shoulders from RJF Leather which cost me $63 each shipped. That would give you twice the leather in top quality for only $13 more than you paid on EBay.
 
Rick, thanks for posting how much you paid. Sounds like I'm going to be calling RJF. How many usable square feet is that approximately?

Andy, if you're ever interested in splitting a double shoulder to cut costs, email me.
 
A double shoulder will average 10-12 square and almost all will be very usable for sheaths. If some parts are a little soft, they still can be used for welts, shims,etc. I've already used one of those doubles and the non-usable cut offs where around a square foot. Can't help some waste even if you are very careful in layout. I buy the #2 grade from RJF which currently runs $5.50/sq.ft. The #2 is the same quality in tanning as the #1's, but has some stretch marks and maybe a few range scars. These things don't effect my sheath work and most of the time you can't tell they are present. Actually, they seem to add a little "character" to the finished piece.
 
Here is my first sheath from it.
The stitching kind of went off the rails, but I think it will hold together. Total length, including the belt loop, is 8."

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Good start. Not bad at all for your first go around. Stitching ecspecially by hand takes a while to really get good at. Its more of a learned repetition type thing. Takes practice but once you got it down you can make it look really good. Its one of those things you gotta do exactly the same motions for each stitch to get everything to look the same and uniform. A nice sharp awl is a must.

If you get a chance not sure if you have one already but either the book or dvd by al stohlman, chuck barrows, or Paul long will greatly help you move forward far quicker. Still good first go around.
 
quint said:
Good start. Not bad at all for your first go around. Stitching ecspecially by hand takes a while to really get good at. Its more of a learned repetition type thing. Takes practice but once you got it down you can make it look really good. Its one of those things you gotta do exactly the same motions for each stitch to get everything to look the same and uniform. A nice sharp awl is a must.

If you get a chance not sure if you have one already but either the book or dvd by al stohlman, chuck barrows, or Paul long will greatly help you move forward far quicker. Still good first go around.
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This is just my first sheath from this particular leather. I have made several sheaths in the past, but this is my first one from this hide. It is embarrassing how the stitching went off the edge, but I just couldn't bring myself to scrap it.

I have been using my cordless drill with a 1/16" bit. I had an awl, but it came out of its handle. Maybe I could avoid that problem by spinning, and/or "wallowing" it as I pull it out?
 
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Drills can work but you gotta make sure your drilling is straight. Something that can be hard to do in leather. I usually use the awls when I do hand stitching. Once your good at it and have a good awl it is much quicker then drilling then stitching. Grab up one of those books and have a read.

I am sure that sheath will still last ya more then a few years. Heck I have a wallet I did when I first started leather working, looks well lets say not very good and has so many errors but I keep telling myself Ill replace it when it wears out. Well its been going on 5 years now and Ive still got that same wallet I made when I first started out.
 
Don't be so stingy on your borders. Another 1/8" to 1/4" is not going to cost you. You will be better able to mark and drill or punch your stitch holes and keep them in line with more border (includes the welt as well). You can trim or sand the excess later to your liking. A little firmer leather helps if you're using the drill method, that looser grain will move around on you under a drill bit.
 
Carl's comment is right on point. Figure your stitch line to be in 1/4" from the raw edge and your welt should measure at least 3/8" in width. That will give you plenty of room to punch holes and not have the leather roll. What he says about the loose fiber being harder to work is what we've mentioned before.
 
One trick I've been useing to keep my stitching straight on the back side is to chuck an awl in my drill press. I don't turn the drill press on, and just use it as an arbor press. Straight As an arrow front and back. I like the diamond shape of a awl blade better then round of a drill bit or nail. Make sure the diamond is at about a 45 degree angle to the stitch line. For a backer, I drill a small hole I a scrap 2x4 and clamp it in my drill press vice. With that and a groover, and a stitching wheel, it don't look to bad.
 
crex said:
Another 1/8" to 1/4" is not going to cost you. You will be better able to mark and drill or punch your stitch holes and keep them in line with more border (includes the welt as well). You can trim or sand the excess later to your liking.
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Thanks, crex. Seems like common sense, but I never thought to do it that way.
 
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