Just plain knives

Ain't nothing but a bunch of old metal cutting files turned into knives, but thank y'all for the kind words.:D
Uh, AZsoldier, a finger guard on a no-kidding working knife? I'd just as soon put milk and sugar on my grits.:barf: :barf: :barf: I use the he&& out of my knives, and in spite of them not being fitted out with "training wheels", I very, very, seldom cut myself. Get yourself an old school Scandinavian puukko. After going through a few band aids, you'll learn what not to do. ;)

Sarge
 
Simple is quiet class.

Can you use old wood files to make knives too, or do they have to be the metal working ones?


munk
 
I have seen 40 nicholson files as a lot on ebay for very cheap.

They are good steel I beleive.

For my promotion to Sgt Gift from my wife I am going to try to squeeze $500 bucks from her to start setting up a small shop. Mostly used tools, and scrap material.

I want a Forge, probably home built, and a drill press and a disk sander and a bench grinder. I have about 50 railroad spikes beggin to be turned into working knives, Hawks.

I can dream can't I?
 
Sylvrfalcn said:
Ain't nothing but a bunch of old metal cutting files turned into knives, but thank y'all for the kind words.:D
Uh, AZsoldier, a finger guard on a no-kidding working knife? I'd just as soon put milk and sugar on my grits.:barf: :barf: :barf: I use the he&& out of my knives, and in spite of them not being fitted out with "training wheels", I very, very, seldom cut myself. Get yourself an old school Scandinavian puukko. After going through a few band aids, you'll learn what not to do. ;)

Sarge

I want all my knives to be combat capable. I don't want to be stabbing some one and have my hand ride up the grip and onto the blade. ;)
 
The two bottom ones are especially lovely, to my eyes anyway. Who needs bells and whistles?

Sarge, we rarely see a profile on your knives like a chef's knife - with the blade extending below the handle. On a kitchen knife, that saves your knuckles from scraping on the cutting board ... That just a personal preference of yours? Or maybe it speaks to wanting to make the most efficient use of the steel in your files?
 
TomFetter said:
The two bottom ones are especially lovely, to my eyes anyway. Who needs bells and whistles?

Sarge, we rarely see a profile on your knives like a chef's knife - with the blade extending below the handle. On a kitchen knife, that saves your knuckles from scraping on the cutting board ... That just a personal preference of yours? Or maybe it speaks to wanting to make the most efficient use of the steel in your files?

Tom- the top two knives are made from 10" mill bastards, using the full length and width of the file. Bottom two are the same deal, only using 8" mill bastards as the working stock. Working with stock in that size/width, I lack the material to do a French pattern properly. May order some broader stock (1 1/2" wide) in 1095 from Texas Knifemaker's Supply, and tinker around with that.

Munk- Most files of any quality, regardless of type, are good high carbon tool steel. I stick to metal cutting files because, due to the small size of their cutting teeth, less metal is removed in prepping the blank to make a knife. Besides, metal cutting files are far more common, and people tend to not use them or maintain them properly. So, they get dull, they get rusty, and they get discarded. Friend of mine brought me back a small sack full of 'em from a flea market one time. Said he only spent five bucks on the lot of 'em. He'd remembered what I said about how you can't go wrong with old files made in the USA, like Nicholson, Johnson, etc.. Some of y'all out there own knives I made from those very same files. ;)

Sarge
 
Again, great looking knives. I keep imaginng the extra pinned handle on the pointy jimped blade though.

Lately, I've been making a lot of chainmail, and I've taken your example of not selling it. It's hard to understand sometimes but it keeps it fun. Every so often, someone gets free custom maille. How bad is that?
 
Morgane said:
Again, great looking knives. I keep imaginng the extra pinned handle on the pointy jimped blade though.

Lately, I've been making a lot of chainmail, and I've taken your example of not selling it. It's hard to understand sometimes but it keeps it fun. Every so often, someone gets free custom maille. How bad is that?


I don't like selling stuff, but I'm not the least bit adverse to barter. If a lady needs a good knife, and she's a fair hand at sewing or cooking, we can talk. ;)

Besides, the potential for selling stuff is always there, should I ever find myself in desparate need of some extra revenue. I have my principles, but one of the foremost among them is to keep a practical perspective on life. You can't eat principles.

Sarge
 
Sylvrfalcn said:
I don't like selling stuff, but I'm not the least bit adverse to barter. ...
Well there you go. For years, I've traded teaching/performing music for all manner of things...

What do you say, Sarge - you want to learn how to sing Opera? Play Irish flute, or blues piano? Or just want some live music for an event? Gimme your wish list, and I'll give you mine!:D
 
"I don't like selling stuff, but I'm not the least bit adverse to barter. If a lady needs a good knife, and she's a fair hand at sewing or cooking, we can talk."

With all the ropemaking I don't want to handle anything textile, but I used to get paid to cook at a gourmet restaurant. We live at least a 1000 miles away though. I'll just keep appreciating them from afar for now : )
 
I like the nice handle bevels on the bottom one.

OK, Sarge, I think you mentioned something before, and I'll look it up, but since these are already hardened files and you are removing stock, do you have to re-heat treat them? Dan mentioned before that if you keep them cool and go slow the heat treats should stay OK. I have a couple old files and am determined to give this a try. Doubt if they will look anything like this though, but you have to start somewhere. I think Andy retempers his after grinding, but I know he has a forge and not sure what you use for heating. On my camp knife you did mention that it had been re-tempered.

Thanks,

Norm
 
Norm, there's lots of ways to skin a cat, but here's how I go about making a file into a full tang (chiruwa) knife via stock removal;

- Blade is shaped by "cold grinding", i.e., go slow and careful to avoid overheating the steel. I generally rest my thumb on the blade just opposite of the section being ground, so I can feel whatever heat's being generated, and dip the blade in a bucket of water if it starts getting too warm. By taking care not to overheat the steel, you keep the file at it's full hardness of around 64RC. From there you can temper it down later in a regular kitchen oven, but if you burn the hardness out by overheating the steel while grinding, you'll need access to a forge to reharden it.

- Once the blade and handle are ground to pretty much final shape, I draw the hardness from the handle portion so that it can be drilled for rivets later. I do this by wrapping the blade in a wet rag, leaving the handle exposed, and then using a propane torch to heat the handle sufficiently to remove the hardness. Don't worry if you aren't familiar with reading the oxidation color changes at various temps. Just go right on past blue until you get an even shade of silvery gray. Try not to let the area of the blade/handle juncture go past purple (spring temper), as that area gets a lot of stress, and you don't want it too soft or it may bend and not spring back. Control that by where you place the wet rag wrapping the blade. Once the handle portion has been heated, allow it to slowly air cool, DO NOT QUENCH it, or it won't soften right, and you'll burn up your drill bits. Keep the wet rag on the blade, and with the butt of the handle pointing up, leave it alone to let it cool.

- Now it's time to temper the blade itself down a level of hardness/toughness more suitable for a knife. Make sure the blade is clean and shiny, so you can readily detect color changes in the steel, then put it in the oven. Any (decent) cook will tell you that no two ovens are exactly the same, so I won't talk about temperature settings, other than to say 325 degrees is a good starting point. What you want to do is very gradually increase the temperature until you arrive at the oxidation color change you want. Just crank it up 15-20 degrees at a time, and check it in 10-15 minutes to see if anything's happening. I know it sounds tedious, but once you get a feel for it, you can whittle the process down a bit. The key is to heat slowly, and afterwards let the blade cool slowly. All I do once I hit the color I want, is to turn off the oven, open the door and leave it open, and leave the blade right there until it's cool enough I can handle it with my bare hands.
Okay, I've been talking about colors, what color do you want to see? First, you'll see a pale yellow color, with a little more heat that yellow will take on a light brownish tint (the color of a good ale, like Bass). You can generally stop right there for a general purpose knife, but for a knife that's going to see heavy use and occasional abuse, you'll want to go even darker until you get a light bronze color. You can even turn a file into a nice, springy, throwing knife, by heating it up to a light purple, but that would make it too soft for a good cutting tool. Dark straw yellow, that light brownish tint (remember the ale) is probably all around your best bet.

- Handle? Here's how to cheat. Make sure everything's clean, then epoxy and clamp your rough cut handle slabs to the tang. When the epoxy has set up, clean up the edges of the handle slabs to match the contours of the tang, leaving the slab faces perfectly flat for now. Mark the locations of your rivets/pins, chunk the thing on a drill press, and whoosh, drill right through the whole shebang, i.e. both slabs and the tang in one lick. Result, perfectly aligned rivet/pin holes. Now you can finish shaping your handle like you want it, and then put in your rivets/pins. I generally use 1/8" brass rod, epoxied and peened with a hammer and anvil. Then I file the peened heads down flat, and sand the whole assembly smooth. Apply the finish of your choice, make yourself a sheath, and go cut stuff with your new knife. :thumbup:

Sarge
 
TomFetter said:
Sarge, what's the light coloured wood on the second from the bottom?

Tom, that's some really tight grained hickory I stumbled across. "Stained" it with a bit of Fiebing's leather dye (works great on wood, try it some time), then sealed it with tung oil.

Sarge
 
TomFetter said:
Thanks for the tutorial, Sarge. I think pretty soon I've gotta go buy a grinder.

Tutorial? Well, yes, I reckon I did get a bit long winded. Left something out though, and it's an important something. I can not emphasize enough the value of good eye and respiratory protection. Other stuff, like not leaving a running grinder or a lit torch unattended, is mostly common sense. But you'd be surprised how many guys will just start grinding away on a hunk of steel, while the goggles and dust mask they purchased in a temporary fit of sensibility, lie unutilized on the work bench next to them. Your health and safety are worth more than all the dadburn knives in the world, so please pay attention.

Sarge
 
Sylvrfalcn said:
Tom, that's some really tight grained hickory I stumbled across. ...
Alright. I've got a very tight grained hammer handle with a split at the end that's just crying to be used. Either that or some curly birch, rescued from the woodpile. I know you use a wheel grinder - I'll need to think out whether to pick up one of those, or a little belt grinder. Gonna happen.
 
Back
Top