KA-BAR Tech Talk

All,

Cold Kill, this is not directed at you but you brought up the dulling of the edge issue. Don't take this personally, I'm just try to get something aired out.

This dulled edge issue is a contentious one that rivals Batoning in my book.

Here goes:

1) Sheaths are supposed to: a) protect the user from cuts when not in use. b) help transport the knife. Much has been written about sheaths not doing that. ie; blade cutting the stitching, blades piercing through the leather (yes even those $200 customs)
We can use a variety of materials. We use Glass filled Nylon as it offers ease of manufacturing, strength and durability. User safety is always the first on the criteria list. We take great care to make sure that there is sufficient room in the sheath so the blade is not striking or hitting the inside of the sheath. The issue arises when people are pulling the knife out and pushing the knife into the sheath; they drag or run the edge of the blade into the plastic. If one pulls the knife straigjht out and inserts the blade straight in, there is no problem...we have investigated all of the Becker and KA-BAR sheaths and the issue is the same on each.
2) Anytime an edge is run across any material, it loses sharpness...paper, flesh, cartilage, cardboard, plastic. That is the nature of the knife and the sharpened edge. Some things wear out the edge faster than others. Cardboard is one of the worst materials.
3) Sheaths that REALLY protect will be made of materials that are strong and will resist the sharpened edge. Kydex and leather are used by custom makers because it is easy to work not because it is stronger than Zytel/ Grivory or any of the injection moldable plastics. That's right; convenience over protection. Don't get me wrong; Kydex is a neat material and it has some great properties but Custom Makers use it because they can produce sheaths in their kitchen. By the way, a sharp blade will slice through Kydex and it will wear out and also melt next to a roaring fire. Same problematic issues with leather. They will also dull the blade when edge is dragged over it. Making 50 custom sheaths a year is a lot different than trying to mass produce 10-20,000 pieces a year. We investigated Kydex and decided it does not meet our criteria for a sheath material.
I can hear the next question..."Okay Toooj but that isn't reasonable to always pull the knife straight out of the sheath." I say, "Yes it is." Always know the limitations of your equipment and do the correct thing. Vince Lombardi used to say, "You don't do the right thing some of the time, you do the right thing all of the time". You also may say, "This person's sheath doesn't do that or the Kydex sheath doesn't do that". You may be correct. We have done/are doing several things. a) We lowered the glass in our sheath mixture. We did this several months before this issue went viral on Utoob. The lowered glass was to make the sheath more flexible. Some of the sheaths were too stiff and knife removal was an issue. We will not remove all of the glass from the plastic. Nylon without glass? Think of nylon stockings or your toothbrush handle. Not good options. b) We have gone back to our Hard Sheath maker and we are putting a slot into the entrance of the sheath on the edge side to reduce the chance of the edge cutting into the sheath upon egress/entrance. This is where most of the edge dragging occurs. The first change has already happened. The second is in the works. We are waiting for samples as we speak. I don't know the exact date this will happen and it will be a running change.
4) When we deliberately dulled the knife edge on the sheaths (20 drags plus), the edge was very quickly brought back to razer sharpness with two passes on a Ceramic rod (one pass each side of the cantle) Thats how "Dull" they were.
5) U toob and the internet is the giant warehouse of mis information. Caveat Emptor. Everyone wants their 15 minutes of fame and what better way to do that than to bash products on the 'net.
6) If you are a(n): outdoors man/woman, survivalist, bushcrafter:
a) Complaining: That mindset will kill you when the SHTF. One has to be strong and pragmatic in the wild. That should carry over to everyday life.
b) Reality: What is really important? I'll take a strong sheath.
c) Learn skills: Like how to sharpen your knife on a flat sedimentary river rock in the wilderness...or how to sharpen your knife in the first place.
d) Adapt: Initiate a fix for the sheath or if you can't, buy a custom sheath. The moderate cost of a KA-BAR or Becker Knife will allow you to have some discretionary funds left over for a
different sheath.
7) KA-BAR will continue to offer great customer service so if you want to change over your sheath, send it to my attention. However KA-BAR also stands for strong, skilled, independent, creative users.

End of pedantic lecture.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
Toooj,

I have a KA-BAR ZK knife with GFN handle. Why is the handle dulling my blade? I have bought many other companies GFN handled knives and their handles don't dull the blades. Why do yours?
 
I know it will sound dumb, but is the blade centered?

This is the "Ask Tooj" Sticky. I like the clean Q & A format, it makes it easier to read.

Here is a quote from the very first post in this thread.

This is the spot for your technical questions, and only the technical questions. No chatting. If you start to chat or comment beyond your question, I will move your post out.

Moose
 
I cleaned things up here by moving some posts to the Ka-Bar Chat thread.
As ron_m80 reminds us above, this thread is for technical questions directed to Tooj.
 
SSBob,

If you would stop stealing the prototypes from my desk, this would not happen. Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
Toooj

I've noticed that the coating on the Taiwanese produced knives is much different than the coating on the American produced knives. More specifically, the coating on my War Sword is much different in texture, and apparently durability than what came on my USMC and BK2.

Could you explain the difference between the coatings, why the War Swords coating has so much more texture, seems more durable, and is also apparently thinner?

Just wondering, because it is something I noticed this last weekend, and I haven't seen any talk about that in here.

Thanks for all the help,

ocnLogan
 
Toooj;

Is there an official name for the "Toooj handle"? And (perhaps with a small amount of modification) would a Toooj handle fit on and be attachable to the discontinued 1244 Camp Knife?
 
ocnLogan,

The Epoxy powder coating that we use on the USA made products is a Dupont coating. The powder coating on the Taiwanese KA-BARS is a Taiwanese coating and I'm sorry but I don't know the name. However, it meets our specifications and is quite durable.
When we go overseas, we have to be a bit more flexible concerning materials. The bottom line is that it all works.
On a similar note; we are experimenting with some different coatings as I speak. So there may be some changes in the future on some of our USA made products.


BRL,

I guess you coined the name. However, it will not directly fit on the old 1244. But since you are fairly handy, you may be able to modify the knife and make it work.
PM me or e-mail me with your address and I'll send a handle out to you.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
Thanks Toooj. Authorship of the phrase "Toooj handle" rests squarely on Moose's shoulders. Also, I've got a spare handle! Thank you very much for the offer though.
 
Toooj I just got a leather handled Mark 1 off of an auction site and it comes with a leather sheath. I would like to purchase the glass filled/plastic sheath for it. Do you know what stock number I would look for to find this particular sheath? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Liveitloud,

You can call KA-BAR (1 800 282-130)
Hit the number "1" at the prompt menu to place an order. Item number is #2221S The plastic sheath will fit both Kraton and Leather models. Cost is approx. $28.
Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Liveitloud,

You can call KA-BAR (1 800 282-130)
Hit the number "1" at the prompt menu to place an order. Item number is #2221S The plastic sheath will fit both Kraton and Leather models. Cost is approx. $28.
Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives

Do you have the item number/price for the leather sheath for the same knife? I was just wondering today if the leather version came with a leather sheath or not. Either way, I'd like a leather sheath for my Kraton handled Mark 1.
 
Thanks Toooj I appreciate the info. The knife came yesterday and I really like it but the sheath blows. It doesn't have the keeper strap and is right handed to boot. Won't see much use until I can get the right sheath. Thanks again!!



Liveitloud,

You can call KA-BAR (1 800 282-130)
Hit the number "1" at the prompt menu to place an order. Item number is #2221S The plastic sheath will fit both Kraton and Leather models. Cost is approx. $28.
Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
Thanks Toooj I appreciate the info. The knife came yesterday and I really like it but the sheath blows. It doesn't have the keeper strap and is right handed to boot. Won't see much use until I can get the right sheath. Thanks again!!

you'll like the plastic sheath. it's full ambidextrous, and you can rotate the straps around for your "best fit"

enjoy

which reminds me, i should put that little mark i somewhere for use :> perhaps my range bag.
 
sqoon,

The Leather Mark 1 comes with a leather sheath and the Kraton Mark 1 comes with a plastic sheath. Both sheaths are available as separate items. Just call Linda (800-282-0130 ext 200) to order. Off the top of my head I can't remember the prices but neither is expensive.
Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
Hello Toooj,
My quetion being about the Dozier 4050, Was the first run done for the collector's club with only 200 being offered? That would put start of production at 1999, and was this the 2nd knife they were going to offer as a club knife or was it the 1250CK ?
How long did production run?
How much for the 4050 non-club knife at time of production?
How many Blade Variation's ?
Are all variation's D2 steel ?
Any left in warehouse ?
 
Much of your serrated knives have the serrations chiseled on the left side of the blade? What is the purpose of this? I find it makes them useless unless your left handed. unlike the BK3 which has them on the right.
 
nutoknives,

The 4050 D2 Extreme line of knives was a collaboration between Dan Harrison and myself back in 1998. They introduced in 1999. There were 4 models; clip (4050), drop point (4051), Tanto (4052), and spear point (4053). They retailed for $134. All blades were D2 steel. Sorry, no more left in the warehouse; just in our collection.
They lasted 3 years. Poor sales, hard to manufacture on a production basis, bad price point. all led to it's demise.
Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
whereismyclock/twinstick,

All of the serrations have been moved to the right side of the blade. In the past, the serrations were mixed on both sides. Engineering wanted them all on the right (pile) side, while marketing wanted them on the left (mark) side for photography purposes...
that's right ..catalog photography. Under a new regime, that got changed quickly.
All serrations have been on the right (Pile) side for about 3 years. Apologies to all of you lefties.
Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
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