KakBritva Luch, Hapstone R2, TSPROF K03.........looking for a fixed higher end "complete" sharpening system. Need advice

Gotta love cells n auto correct... A mag angle cube should stick to the shiny silver bit that says hapstone? I'm 6 hrs away from my thing but i think thats how it works?
 
stonemedusa6264 said:
Gotta love cells n auto correct... A mag angle cube should stick to the shiny silver bit that says hapstone? I'm 6 hrs away from my thing but i think thats how it works?
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Correct, that part should be steel and your magnetic angle cube should stick on the word Hapstone
 
SeabassSarmale said:
I’m not great at sharpening or anything, but I’ve got some old kitchen knives and edc stuff I can practice on. Will the set of centaur stones bring my edge to near mirror polish? Or would you recommend a strop compound? Thanks for the info
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It will set you up well for a good finish if you're after a mirror. The F1200 will leave a near mirror finish. I would recommend not stropping with pasted strops just yet until you completely get the hang of sharpening with these systems. If you really want to strop later on and only want 1 strop, then I'd say use 1 micron gunny juice.
 
sranderle said:
Another question as I start playing with the R2.

I thought I had seen comments or videos that showed the top of the rotating clamp in the new version as being magnetic for angle cubes. Mine definitely is not, but easily 'fixed'.

Am I remembering wrong on this 'feature'? If so, you would think this would be an obvious enhancement at that is part of the workflow.
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Yes, correct it is supposed to be ferromagnetic so your angle cube is meant to stick to it. This, I imagine is part of the latest batch that Hapstone is having made with partners outside of the Ukraine due to the political situation there.

I assume this is your R2 that was purchased directly from Hapstone?

I had a chat with Gritomatic recently about this exact topic and they told me they had received a large batch of new Hapstones where all of the metal plates on the stone holders were not ferromagnetic. They painstakingly replaced all of the plates themselves, so the ones sold by Gritomatic should have the standard ferromagnetic plate.

That said, it is more of a convenience than anything. It really does not "have" to be ferromagnetic because you don't leave the angle cube on the plate while sharpening.
 
stonemedusa6264 said:
After looking at the pic i still think the r1 clamp is better. 777 edge has more experience. Hope he'll chime in?
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I posted about the new stone clamps vs previous generation here in post #64.

KakBritva Luch, Hapstone R2, TSPROF K03.........looking for a fixed higher end "complete" sharpening system. Need advice

It's really more aesthetic than anything. It looks great and shows real attention to detail. With any other stone backing, just make sure it seats down all the way into the stone clamps and compensate for thickness all the time. It does look nice. Was just thinking there was some other...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com

Basically, it seems that the latest stone clamps are now back to being very similar to most other systems. They will work just as well as most other manufacturers' stone holders and will still be more versatile that many others where they can still adjust for any common 4-6 inch sized stones. They will be stronger than the previous ones because they are made from a solid piece of aluminum. The only real change is that they won't slightly swivel to compensate for uneven stone ends. This will only matter with non-backed or dual sided stones. With these types of stones, grip to assist can be easily compensated for with a strip of rubberized tape on the stone ends if needed.
 
777 Edge said:
Yes, I have many different diamond and CBN stones - plated, resin and metallic bonded. As far as metallic bond is concerned, I only have Poltava branded ones.

I like the resin and softer bonded diamond & CBN stones for the fact that they act and feel a lot like traditional whetstones and leave a very good edge. They have good metal removal rate vs edge quality.

When it comes to fast metal removal, diamond / cbn plated stones are almost unbeatable but can cause edge chipping when you fully apex the edge on a coarse grit plated stone. FYI, the Chinese plated diamond stones are mostly excellent but they seem to top out in grit at about 800-1000. They sell "2000","3000" etc grits but in all cases and tests I've done, it's all the same 1000/800 grit stone just branded with different logos. These stones are excellent value for money and work very well for quick sharpening. Lubrication helps a lot to significantly extend the life of these stones but eventually they will lose grit and slowly deteriorate in performance.

As far as metallic bonded copper/tin stones go, I do like them a lot because they will give you the same effect as a resin bonded stone in that they can be refreshed and will last a very, very long time. In my opinion they work best with lubrication (I use soapy water) and they cut nice and fast, but they can load up a bit with steel and glaze a little over time. There has been a lot of discussion and experimentation on how to refresh the surface when needed but I've found a Nagura to clean them up well in most cases after sharpening. When they do need some deeper surface reconditioning, some guys use ferric chloride to etch the metallic bond away a bit but that can be very hard to control and can ruin the stone if you're not careful. Plain old silicon carbide with the traditional method of lapping stones work well on them to remove and refresh the top surface. After refreshing the surface this way, some bits of silicon carbide can temporarily embed into the metallic bond, so it's probably best to try and use a grit just slightly below the stone grit if you're concerned about this.

There has been a lot of rumours about using silicon carbide on Poltava CBN metallic bonded stones to refresh them, but it has been confirmed that this is actually how Poltava does it themselves so no doubt - it is an acceptable method.

I like to use my coarse and cheap diamond plated stones for quick metal removal when I re-profile or remove chips from inexpensive steel knife edges, followed up by Venev resin stones. For more expensive knives I use my CBN Poltava 120 grit, followed up by Venev resin diamond or CBN. Note that this just my current method and current personal preference, many other methods and steps also work well.
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Any experience with combined metal & resin bonds? Came across those at AbrasiveTools website, being marketed as the best of both worlds…
 
I've decided to design some swivel-able aftermarket clamp holders for the Hapstone R2 system for Gritomatic to sell on their website. I think this is a good option to have with the fact that Hapstone does not make something like this anymore.

If Gritomatic wants to sell them, it will be available as an aftermarket add-on to the Hapstone system. Keep an eye out for them.
 
I wonder if it would be easy to tweak the design of your clamp so a concave adapter was more integrated? Looking for something to hold the adapter inline with the clamp. It'd only work with 6" stones but I'm thinking the clamp body longer with the hinge milled into it. Instead of the guide rod coming out of the clamp and into the concave adapter hinge. To make a straight bevel, you could make it so you straightened the hinge n had a zero stop or pulled half of the hinge off n went right into the clamp with a grub screw to hold the rod. The hinge would be under where the hole for the guide rod is on the clamp. Not sure how much of a demand there'd be for that but if you did good with the design I'd buy one.

Way up there on my wish list is all that with a threaded hole on the guide rod side of the concave hinge that fits the og threaded long dong guide rod. It was easier enough to tear down n put together with the og clamp that I miss that feature. I take the sharpener on the road for work so I've probably tore it down n set it up more times than most people will in a lifetime.

It also sounds like hapstone stepped away from this over people not being able to tighten screws right so you might not want to get into all that.
 
stonemedusa6264 said:
I wonder if it would be easy to tweak the design of your clamp so a concave adapter was more integrated? Looking for something to hold the adapter inline with the clamp. It'd only work with 6" stones but I'm thinking the clamp body longer with the hinge milled into it. Instead of the guide rod coming out of the clamp and into the concave adapter hinge. To make a straight bevel, you could make it so you straightened the hinge n had a zero stop or pulled half of the hinge off n went right into the clamp with a grub screw to hold the rod. The hinge would be under where the hole for the guide rod is on the clamp. Not sure how much of a demand there'd be for that but if you did good with the design I'd buy one.

Way up there on my wish list is all that with a threaded hole on the guide rod side of the concave hinge that fits the og threaded long dong guide rod. It was easier enough to tear down n put together with the og clamp that I miss that feature. I take the sharpener on the road for work so I've probably tore it down n set it up more times than most people will in a lifetime.

It also sounds like hapstone stepped away from this over people not being able to tighten screws right so you might not want to get into all that.
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The design I'm working on is without any moving parts like the old style R2 stone holders had. It will be fairly standard stone holders, but with a 6mm hole on one side, angled a few degrees either side (left and right but not up and down), ending up about 11mm wide on the other end of each stone holder. The stone clamps will then automatically align with non-square stones.

Not sure what you mean above regarding concave adapter, but is it a convex sharpening adapter you want? I've already designed one of those for the Hapstone system, but my convex sharpening adapter works best with dovetail backed stones.
 
I know the shape I'm talking about is convex but for some reason I always type concave. Normally I catch myself. My bad

It's really only a thing when setting it up or if it falls hard. I pull the convex adapter off the guide rod and hope nothing gets banged around in the case. Sometimes when I put it together the convex adapter isn't inline on the clamp rod with the clamp so I have to gun sight down the sides of the clamp to line up the adapter with it. I can post a pic showing what I'm talking about if it would help. I'd want to get rid of the guide rod coming out of the clamp to convex adapter and have the first half of the hinge for it on the clamp. I forget what I was gonna do when I was thinking about modding it. I also forget where the guide rod I got with the adapter is. I just spun the threaded og guy around and stuck the adapter and newer clamp on it.
 
stonemedusa6264 said:
I know the shape I'm talking about is convex but for some reason I always type concave. Normally I catch myself. My bad

It's really only a thing when setting it up or if it falls hard. I pull the convex adapter off the guide rod and hope nothing gets banged around in the case. Sometimes when I put it together the convex adapter isn't inline on the clamp rod with the clamp so I have to gun sight down the sides of the clamp to line up the adapter with it. I can post a pic showing what I'm talking about if it would help. I'd want to get rid of the guide rod coming out of the clamp to convex adapter and have the first half of the hinge for it on the clamp. I forget what I was gonna do when I was thinking about modding it. I also forget where the guide rod I got with the adapter is. I just spun the threaded og guy around and stuck the adapter and newer clamp on it.
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The convex adapter I designed works very differently to the "broken rod" hinge type convex adapters. It replaces the rear stone holder with a slotted holder with different grooves, allowing you to mount the stone end (close to your handle) higher or lower for convex angles.
 
777 Edge said:
The convex adapter I designed works very differently to the "broken rod" hinge type convex adapters. It replaces the rear stone holder with a slotted holder with different grooves, allowing you to mount the stone end (close to your handle) higher or lower for convex angles.
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Sounds like it does the same thing. I tend to prefer the convex edge around 3 degrees. It looks more like I hand sharpened it compared to the perfectly flat looking bevels it normally leaves.

Clamps look nice too. I often find myself wanting a printer n a mini cnc jobbie.
 
777 Edge said:
I've found a Nagura to clean them up well in most cases after sharpening. When they do need some deeper surface reconditioning, some guys use ferric chloride to etch the metallic bond away a bit but that can be very hard to control and can ruin the stone if you're not careful. Plain old silicon carbide with the traditional method of lapping stones work well on them to remove and refresh the top surface.
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Is it better to have a specific grit Nagura for each grit of stone, or is there a particular all around grit that works for most stones?

I was able to get a good deal on a set of Poltava metallic CBN stones and plan on expanding my finishing grits as desired in the future with some softer bonds and different flavors.
 
No need, something like the King Nagura (listed as 8K) works well enough on most stones I've tried due to its soft bond and easy release of its own grit which does a good job of cleaning and light duty conditioning of stones.
 
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I have worked through all of my knives with my R2 and am really happy with the results.

I have picked up a knife with a convex edge, and ordered the Hapstone Convex Adapter.

Does anyone have experience using this adapter to sharpen a convex edge? If so, could you give me an overview of the process?


Thanks
 
sranderle said:
I have worked through all of my knives with my R2 and am really happy with the results.

I have picked up a knife with a convex edge, and ordered the Hapstone Convex Adapter.

Does anyone have experience using this adapter to sharpen a convex edge? If so, could you give me an overview of the process?


Thanks
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Glad you're liking your Hapstone R2 - it is an awesome sharpener, no doubt!

When using the convex adapter for convex edge sharpening, you have 2 options. Either stick to the original convex angle on the knife, or sharpen it to a new convex angle.

If you want to stick to the original convex angle, then use sharpie on the edge and adjust both your sharpening angle and convex angle until you get the sharpie removed before doing your sharpening.

If you want to set an exact new (measured) convex angle, then decide on what final edge angle you need and how much convexing you want. To set the final edge angle, move your stone over the knife until almost all of the stone overhangs the edge (stone furthest away from the pivot). Use a digital angle cube and measure & set this angle as your final edge angle. Now move the stone all the way back until the other end is just about at the edge of the knife; measure & set this angle again as the amount of convex you want. The amount of convex will be the difference between the angle measured on both ends of the stone (full stroke) on the blade edge.

When sharpening, you'll have to make sure to do full strokes all the way to both ends of the stone so you hit the proper convex angle that you have set. If you do short strokes, you won't fully convex the edge properly.
 
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