Kershaw Rake rust issue/added forced patina

00ChevyScott

00ChevyScott

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I don't live in a very humid climate (North Texas), and I try to keep my blades somewhat oiled to deter rust if they are going to be sitting for a while. I had applied some oil to this knife before putting it away a few weeks ago. I pulled it out and saw a ton of rust forming in a finger print shaped pattern. I got as much as I could off with gun oil and a pencil eraser. What can I do to get the rest off? Or is it permanently stained?

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its the bead blast finish in conjunction with the D2 steel. is it humid where you live? that contributes too. use some metal polish and it will come right off.
 
gundude73 said:
use some metal polish and it will come right off.
Click to expand...

I recently used some Mother's Mag Wheel polish to remove some light patina/rust from a Case CV slipjoint, and it worked well. No guarantee, but its worth a try.
 
Alright thanks guys. I'll have to pick up some at work.

As far as humidity goes, the weather shows between 30-40% for this week. It's northern Texas so the humidity isn't ridiculous, but it's not completely dry either.
 
Good call on the metal polish, I forgot I had some hiding in the closet. Used Blue Magic Metal Polish Cream, seems to have worked great.

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A thing to bear in mind regarding the Beadblast finish is.... it sucks ! :P ok seriously though - it will rust as easy as pie given the right conditions.

Every Kershaw I own I always take apart and polish off the Beadblast finish , I have never had a rust problem , even using them in wet conditions. It's that crappy beadblast that opens pores in the 'skin' of the steel , making it easier for corrosion to occur.

Flitz or Wenol and extra fine steel wool is what I use , works great ! :D

Tostig
 
D-2 is really not a stainless steel. I have swords made in the stuff, if you leave a finger print on it, it will rust.
 
How long could a rust spot like that stay on a blade before it starts to do some damage?
 
I don't get it, I have yet to have any of my knives show rust. I live in NC, near Raleigh, and here lately the humidity has been brutal. Plus I use my knives outside at a landfill pretty much every day cutting anything from weed block fabric, to cutting down cardboard. I wonder if it's the oils in some peoples hands that cause adverse reactions....
 
Body chemistry has a lot to do with it as well. I will agree that the bead blast finish is among my most disliked of all time.
 
I can definitely say that in this case, it was without a doubt caused by a finger print. But I have noticed that this knife develops small rust spots near the thumb studs and along the D2 cutting edge. I noticed that it gets worse on days I carry it due to perspiration, but it will also do this over time when sitting in my desk drawer.

FWIW it is the only bead blasted Kershaw I own that has a rust problem. My 13c26 and 14c28 RAMs do not have this problem, or at least not near as bad/noticeable. And I carried the 13c26 RAM for a few weeks straight in 100 degree Texas weather with no rusting.
 
Forcing a patina might help some with your rust problem. My much carried composite Leek hasn't ever had a problem. All CPM D2 composite blades used to come with a patina from the factory, but they have stop doing it on most models now. My G10 Tyrade looked worse than your Rake before the patina. No problems at all now. I used vinegar but PCB etchant should work better.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102868
 
I used rubbing compound to take off some of the stains on my M4 Millie. It looks better but not great. I tried to force a patina....it's was My fault.

I think M4 is a lot different than the finish on a Rake etc. thou.
 
Hmm any pictures of a patina'd composite blade? I was disappointing to find out the Rake didn't have that contrasting look to it like the older composite blades, so if a forced patina will produce that result I might be very interested.
 
00ChevyScott said:
Hmm any pictures of a patina'd composite blade? I was disappointing to find out the Rake didn't have that contrasting look to it like the older composite blades, so if a forced patina will produce that result I might be very interested.
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The JYD 2 has factory patina. The Leek has been redone. The Tyrade came without patina.
 
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