Kershaw Rake rust issue/added forced patina

presz said:
Nice job! How long did you leave it on? I need to get some and do some re-etching.
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I dipped it 3 times for approx 20-30 seconds. I filled up a red dixie cup 60% of the way, and added solution until it was slightly darker than apple cider. Dipped the knife, pulled it out and rinsed/whiped off, and repeated 2 more times. Then did a good job of washing it down with water and getting it dry. It looks just like the pre-production photos of this knife!
 
Here's a color comparison with some other well known knives

imag0095hr.jpg
 
looks great! also seems like it brought out the copper accent a little more. Do different steels produce a different finish when using that etchant or do they all become darker? Sorry for the "noob" question, but i've never used the stuff before.
 
I dipped the entire blade. The upper portion is a full stainless steel while the cutting edge is an "almost stainless" D2 steel. Stainless steel takes a lot longer to rust/form a patina, while the D2 cutting edge turned dark very quickly. From what I have read, if the upper portion had been smoothed to a mirror finish you would notice some discoloration, but with the factory finish it is almost unnoticeable.
 
Sandvik 13C26 will rust in a couple of days in humid climate, especially near the ocean. And D2 is a tool steel, not stainless. So you need to take care of it (a little bit of oil is more than enough).
 
Isn't it CPM D2 which is a powder steel? I have been able to get my lone CPM D2 steel to take a great patina, but just using it I can't get neither of my D2 tool steels to take a patina!
 
Peter Parker said:
Isn't it CPM D2 which is a powder steel? I have been able to get my lone CPM D2 steel to take a great patina, but just using it I can't get neither of my D2 tool steels to take a patina!
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CPM-D2, CPM-3V, CPM-M4, Bohler K294, K390, Uddeholm Vanadis 4 Extra = All tool steels. There are stainless powder steels and powder tool steels.
 
did you put the etching solution all over the blade or did you have to be careful not to put it on the upper steel?
 
I just dipped the entire blade in. You can see that the upper steel is a slight bit darker where it was dipped, but you have to look very hard to see it.
 
Well its how they etch it to begin with. Just use PCB etching solution from radio shack and a plastic bottle. Dip for a few min, rinse, repeat if need be.
 
I just ordered a rake, and I just stumbled across this thread. how has the etched part of the blade held up since you did it? Also, you said "I filled up a red dixie cup 60% of the way, and added solution until it was slightly darker than apple cider." You filled it up 60% of the way with what? Water?
 
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