Khuk cutting tests -- metals

Cheaper blades are usually around 45 RC and can be chopped in half with a 60 RC blade without major edge damage (the edge will still be there). Here is a shot of such a blade I took a few cuts into :

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/images/cheap_blade_notched.jpg

The blade I cut this up with was a Strider WB. ATS-34 at ~ 60RC. Edge was ~22 degrees per side, quite blunt as I had previously chopped up a windshield with the same knife. You can put the two knives in a vice and press one right through the other. Nails can also be cut up with such hardened blades.

I can do all of the above with a Cold Steel Tomahawk which is ~15$, and the edge has been drastically thinned out, under 22 degrees per side. This is the only Cold Steel blade I would call durable though, as a Recon Scout lost huge chunks out of the edge (bevel was gone), when it was whacked into rocks while trimming back some brush around a grave.


Glass cutting is about the worst thing you can do as it is very hard and will mash the edge bevel in significantly. However the blade should not break in half, have the handle fall off, lose a huge chunk out of the primary grind etc. . As Bill noted, you are not looking for the blade to be still shaving sharp. What is important is that it doesn't come apart, and that the damage can be repaired with some sharpening.

Working in urban enviroments, such hard contacts can't readily be avoided unless you want to spend a lot of time inspecting, and cleaning the materials you cut. It is much nicer deep in the woods where the worst that happens is just some grit in the bark which is just dulling.

Of course you have to consider the blade, not all khukuris are the same. Some have quite slim edge profiles and would quite likely ripple during the above, however they would also get damaged on the harder knots. In general, anything that can take really hard wood working isn't going to be significantly damaged by fooling around banging it into nails and such.

-Cliff
 
May I suggest a test medium that gives a balde a pretty thorough workout but which is unlikely to damage a well-made blade?

And it's a metal (just about)...

The first test I do on any long blade I've made is chopping up lead pipe (which is easy come by in these parts, where a lot of old houses are being renovated). It generally comes around 2" diameter, 5/16" wall thickness, and the interior is often furred up with lime and other residues.

A good blade will chop 2 foot of pipe like a salami sausage without getting bent or losing its edge. A blade that's too brittle or too soft won't survive this test. A good blade will come through unmarked and still sharp.
 
I like Tom's suggestion. You can alternatively use a length of mill steel bar stock. Either way you will be working with a known medium.

The problem with cheap knives is that they can vary quite a bit. It might be completely unhardened butterknife steel, or untempered and hard as glass and just as brittle. Just remember what happened to the HSN knife guy on the air last year. He was swinging one of the cheap swords around when it shattered and cut him in the process.

If you really want to play around with these things, wear a heavy leather apron, gloves, and plenty of eye protection.

n2s
 
In a thread devoted to brutal test measures, it was only a matter of time before the 'Mad Max of Metal" showed up, Cliff Stamp.

if Cliff worked for Consumer Reports, I could trust the magazine.

munk
 
Elswhere on this thread Uncle Bill recommended testing all khukris headed into combat. Seems sage advice to me since none of us would head out with an untested or unzeroed rifle, so why trust an untested combat knife. I'd appreciate any advice on how to adequately test them without taking the approach of intentionally trying to destroy them. At the same time it would be beneficial for my guys to work on familiarization and technique. Remember most of 'em are pretty young, so it's not just the khukris that are untested.

Sarge
 
If you can find some old dry oak for the guys to beat on. They will catch on pretty quick where the sweet spot is on each blade. When I find the right spot on a new blade, I try to hit with that same spot every time. There will be vary little vibration to the hand if the proper point on the blade is contacting the target. If not oak use any wood that is not rotten. I still wish I could go with you.:) ;)
 
forget it; you're not going, Pappy.

You whack solid Oak with your Khuks? How much vegitation around your place needs trimming, anyway?

munk
 
Thanks fer all hopping in on the metal cutting and giving some details and suggenstions.

Cliff - Good pic and details! You inspired me to really test the AK. I think it has a good edge bevel and profile to stand up to such abuse. I would not do these tests to my slicer/slasher Khuks, the GS and YCS.

Tom - Good test, too! I sometime will cut copper conduit, or even those copper lightning rod grounds, they can be like 1/2 inch thick or more. Next test.

Sarge - In addition to cutting, you might also spend time on the iaido style quick draw from sheath to first strike. Takes some care to get the feel for the draw (doing so without dragging the blade edge into the edge of the sheath). Draw and re-sheath exercises will make for confident and proficient (and safe) khuk usage. If you have any lefties, might suggest to them the small of the back carry. Easy draw for lefties.

Keith
 
A knife going into combat or any situation where your life may depend on its performance needs to be able to chop bones with no significant damage to the blade and it has to hang together under extremely heavy use. It takes 10 or 15 minutes to see if it'll do this.

Get some beef ribs and chop them into bite size pieces. Check the blade. You might dull it but it shouldn't deform or chip. Beat the knife on a tree or log -- all directions, and beat the hell out of it. Flat right, flat left, spine. The knife should be the same after beating as it was before. Stick the blade into the fork of a tree or well secured vice and pull on the handle right and left full force. Again, the knife should be the same after the test as it was before. Do whatever it takes to develop full confidence in a blade which may end up having to save your life. If in doubt get another knife.
 
I can't bend the blade fold on my M43 (mentioned earlier in this thread) back into shape. Should I try heating it? I would be grateful for any suggestions.
 
RE: Testing Khuks going to war
Thanks to everybody for the useful and helpful inputs. I think I've got enough now to hammer out a good training plan and get some valid testing done in the process.
Just one problem, I wish I had done the testing myself before I gave the khukris to the guys. It's going to take some doing to get them to thrash those khukris properly. As soon as the BAS I ordered (blame Pappy for that one, he says it's a good all around khuk and his word's plenty good enough for me) gets here, I'll take them out and show them exactly what I expect them to do by demonstrating first with my brand new, fresh out of the box, khukri. That ought to help some.

Thanks again,
Sarge
 
Glenn, don't heat it. Put in on a piece of steel and hammer it back straight. Go slow and you'll be fine.
 
Thanks for the good advice Bill. I've decided to hold off on the repairs until I visit my father-in-law in one weeks time. He lives just over 500 kilometers away but is skilled at working with steel. Althouth he's approaching 80, he has skills I can only envy. This khukuri is worth the trip and I get to visit the family at the same time. He also lives on an acreage so I get access to all the bush cutting I want with my khukuri collection.
 
The creek less than 100 yards back of the house. It is like a jungle on two sides of this place and it doesn't seem to stop growing. The 20" Siru has already worked out on 3" grape vines that were trying to climb all through the cedars out there. Then there are vines that I don't even know the name of that can scratch you all to pieces if you let them grow. Some of these I have transplanted along the outside fence to the place. Not to keep critters in but two legged critters out. After that they can hassle with the prickly pears I've planted behind the vines. I don't monkey with nobody in the whole neighborhood and I don't need anyone monkeying with me.

I can go to some part of the place about once a week and work a good part of the day trying to keep things lokking half way neat.:) ;) :D :p
 
Pappy, the only thing I miss living in Montana is lizards. Bet you got lizards on that place of yours. Texas bush shares this in common with Mojave bush, it all rips, stabs, cuts, or stings. Wish I could see what kind of shrubs you're dealing with. Some day I may go down there- got a friend in the Park service, and always wanted to see the desert in Texas.

munk
 
Yea Munk, we have those little critters running all over the place. They don't bother me or my wife, they eat lots of bugs so, we just leave them alone. Sometimes they put on a pretty good show.

I would not go to war with a knife that had been used to cut others up. Stress can not be seen by the naked eye. I would be looking for a replacement ASAP.
 
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