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- Jun 13, 2006
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Be interesting to see the ratings for each blade divided by weight and price. Then you might have a better idea what you're getting for the material and your money.
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Let me first say,"I don't let these tests influence my buying at all",However the test did bring up questions/suggestions as to what I would want in a khukri.
1.Full tang
2.A guard(even a small one)
3.Micarta or G10(grippier handles)
Yeah, he seemed to approach the khuk as if it were some kind of alien artifact. Perhaps they should come with instruction manuals.I think the test would've been a little better if the guy had done enough research to learn what the "unsharpened little knife" was for and what part of the blade to cut with [oh well].
Couldn't view the vids, but the pics were interesting.
Note sure quite how useful such tests are, but I guess there's a school of thought out there that enjoys this sort of thing.
1. Full tang khuks are also available, they're known as chiruwa khukuri. When folk here refer to the "CAK" for example, it's an abbreviation for the Chiruwa Ang Khola.
2. Hmm, the odd "True Villager" khuks that have been turning up now and then are about all there is in the line of khuks with guards right now.
Given that the khuk is predominantly used in a swinging motion, though, a guard probably wasn't considered necessary over the years, as it's unlikely the hand would slip onto the blade unless you're thrusting with it. They're kind of like the Filippino barong in that sense.
3. These synthetics would certainly be tougher than the traditional wood and horn. Mind you, the latter are had to come by in Nepal, where the steel for the blades themselves comes from junked Mercedes Benz truck leaf springs. But that's okay by me, since I prefer natural materials in my blades anyway. As a note, horn could be made grippier with a coarse grit of sandpaper, as many here have noted in a myriad of other threads.
1.) All HI Kukris are full tang. The tang goes all the way through the handle, peined over at the pommel. If you want an exposed full-width tang, the aforementioned Chiruwa-style handles are your ticket.
2.) Not necessary. See the rib at the center of the handle? That goes between your middle and ring finger, or your ring finger and little finger (my favorite way). It keeps your hand from sliding forward, IF you chose to stab with it (outside of a fight, there's no reason to do such, and a kukri will part flesh easy enough to not need a guard). The flared pommel keeps it from flying out of your hand.
3.) I have both horn and wood handled kukris. The wood ones are plenty grippy. My horn handled ones I bought for their beauty and are wall hangers. My wood handled ones are my users (I like the satisal wood the best).
I think the test would've been a little better if the guy had done enough research to learn what the "unsharpened little knife" was for and what part of the blade to cut with [oh well].
It's not clear why there should be some advantage for a tester to have extended knowledge of the tool he's testing.
Yeah, he seemed to approach the khuk as if it were some kind of alien artifact. Perhaps they should come with instruction manuals.
I'd suggest somebody sending him a CAK and some tips on proper use, but I don't think I could stand to see him destroy another HI.
These guys at that forum seem completely unaware of the fact that ductile spine and hard edge are what makes these knives. If a blade will take a set, you canlikely unbend it and remove the set too. Additionally, bending a knife is part of the ABS test for Journeyman and Mastersmith.
Lalalala. I thoguht she did really well!
He did buy a CAK (wood handle) recently and posted a pic or two of it. It would be nice if he does a field report with it.
Bob
Thanks for letting me know about the chiruwa:thumbup:
Hope he learns how to swing it properly cause they are awesome choppers.
I hate to say this... but I pretty much use a smilar chopping motion for all my big blades... kind of a whipping motion with the wrist, elbow, and shoulder.
For a large knife, machete, kukri, that's the proper way. For an axe/hatchet, it's the opposite, you want to swing, but when you make contact, you want it to be a straight in motion to maximize cutting. I thinkt hat's why hatchet people have trouble with kukris in the beginning.
i was surprised he spent the whole 8 videos complaining about the grip and never did anything about it.
Been a long time since I've used the latter for anything other than splitting... so you basically keep the wrists fairly rigid for axes/hatchets for chopping?
It's a terrible shame and a waste to deliberately abuse and break a handmade khukuri. The blade represents a humble man's way to make his living doing what his forefathers did. It's not some mass-produced "thing" spit out by some machinery. Hurts me to see a real khuk treated like that. I won't take space here to comment on the intelligence of the "tester." That has been done already elsewhere on this forum.
--Mike L.
This brings up a good point. Nobody is born with the inherent ability to utilize a kukri to the maximum ability. Some tools are not intuitively designed, which may be a drawback in the real world. Noss shows that kukri nuts are a relatively small subset of knifenuts. It's not clear why there should be some advantage for a tester to have extended knowledge of the tool he's testing. In fact, I think there's a great advantage to testing being done by someone who isn't so invested in the tool. Like most of us here.