Kitchen/woods knife?

I have a knife made by Jeff White, if you do a google search there are lots of pics online, it is just what you described and should be perfect for what you want. As a matter of fact I had to buy 2 because my wife took one away from me for permanent kitchen duty. Here is a pic.

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I live in korea and they sell forged utility blades shaped like you described, they are made of carbon steel and take a wicked sharp edge, however they have a thin stick tang that I don't think would be good for woods use. Chris
 
My TOPS Pasayten fits the bill for me. But on the cheap old hickory should work if your willing to do a little work to em. Maybe Condor Hudson Bay? Check out the $30 beater knife thread for old hicks. Bearthedog had a nice set up
 
I would recommend looking into a good Nessmuk design. Here is a thread with lots of links and some photos about Nessmuks...

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=484331&highlight=nessmuk

Some people consider the knives to be "ugly", but they are perfectly designed for the uses you describe. Many of the knives out there that are typical of wilderness use fail to give your fingers the proper clearance to do substantial food prep. I am a restaurant professional, and I have used knives my entire life both for work and in camp situations, and it is imperative to have finger clearance that allows you to put the knife blade FLAT on a cutting surface and still have clearance for your fingers if you want a knife to excel in this area.

Nessmuks also excel at other camp chores as well.

I just ordered this one, which has an 8 inch blade, although it is significantly thicker in the spine than what you are looking for. I am hoping though that the larger than average width of the blade will still give it a good edge geometry for slicing and food prep.

MonsterNessieGrnMic092124.jpg
 
Maybe a Fiddleback Woodsman style blade, just proportionately longer-thin stock, scandinavian grind, pronounced point, moderate belly with consistant, continuous rocker....
 
Kershaw makes kitchen blade exchanger sets. Reasonably priced, lightweight, versatile, many shapes and sizes, etc. You can use one handle for several blades. They won't split logs, but but they work well for food prep.
 
This is the Dave Farmer incase anyone can't be bothered to click the link:

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By pitdog2010 at 2010-10-20

13 1/4 in OAL, 8 in Blade
 
This probably does not fit into your price point, but I have several Horton Kitchen Knives that do double duty. If you are going to invest in a nice knife it is nice to be able to use it on a daily basis.

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I have a knife made by Jeff White, if you do a google search there are lots of pics online, it is just what you described and should be perfect for what you want. As a matter of fact I had to buy 2 because my wife took one away from me for permanent kitchen duty. Here is a pic.

knife6.jpg

Got one of the Jeff White knives but in a Nessmuk pattern. It's slightly thicker at the edge than I would like for a kitchen knife, but still does much better than a Mora. For outdoors foodprep it's pretty much ideal.
 
This is the Dave Farmer incase anyone can't be bothered to click the link:

ser370de4pq.jpg

By pitdog2010 at 2010-10-20

13 1/4 in OAL, 8 in Blade

That seems to be moving in the right direction -- good looking knife. I wonder how the heel/pommel would be -- seems a bit bulky, but it's hard to tell without handling it. Might be perfect.

He's got several possibilities on his site, and I agree that this looks like the best fit of the bunch.

I still don't see how anyone would choose to use a .188 thick upswept blade primarily for kitchen use. Ugh. Fortunately, there are many choices available, and we don't all have to make the same one.
 
That seems to be moving in the right direction -- good looking knife. I wonder how the heel/pommel would be -- seems a bit bulky, but it's hard to tell without handling it. Might be perfect.

He's got several possibilities on his site, and I agree that this looks like the best fit of the bunch.

I still don't see how anyone would choose to use a .188 thick upswept blade primarily for kitchen use. Ugh. Fortunately, there are many choices available, and we don't all have to make the same one.

I agree, 1/8" max !;)
 
How about something from the new Opinel line. Specifically the Classic Chef knife #118. They're ground thin, and probably no more than 1.5-2mm at the spine. Steel is 12C27.

They are sort of expensive. The ones I saw these at the supermarket were €30.

opinel-classic-chef-no118.jpg
 
My Buck 119 (6") and 120 (7.5") are kept sheathed in my kitchen knife drawer. The 119 is great for all kitchen uses - fruits & veggies to chicken & roasts. The longer 120 even has made the trip to the in-laws - great turkey slicer. The 119 started life as a camping knife, the 120 whacked away in the yard. The SS permits good cleaning between 'missions'! The 119 was recently still ~ $35 at WallyWorld.

Stainz
 
A cheap Victorinox chef's knife might do everything you want.

You probably stand a greater advantage by using something like that than something higher end 'cos it is likely a lot tougher. Perhaps important given the size of the piece. Plus it would be easy to tweak the blade to exactly the shape you want if you were so inclined – not really any harder than this very effective looking machete mod -

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I'm sure there will be a couple of naysayers but like you said, you have that hawk for chopping. True, they aren't especially hard but when you offset that against what you intend to cut with it, and that it'll be a lot less fragile than something at high hardness, that could be a blessing. I think the edge retention consequences could be easily overblown. I'd ignore armchair theorists espousing any of that.

Below is one of my very humble Smithfields. With a good fine convex edge on it retaining sharpness isn't the issue one might anticipate. I'm sure it would be a lot worse if I just dubbed a scratchy edge on it with a butcher's steel but done like this it's a whole new ballgame. It's only made of Mora class stainless and I give it grief it was never intended to take. It's half the weight of my golok and I sometimes do press it into service as a light machete. In fact, my first few tests involved cross grain chopping of some 2” 3yr dry beach poles. Easy day. I've got 5*1cm inner tube rubber band on the handle for a high traction grip and it doesn't fear the bucket. There's not much not to like 'cos it matches what I put it against exactly.

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Based on your initial post. I am going to agree with the Dexter Russel carbon steel chefs knife. I have one in my kitchen that was my fathers. The knife is every bit of 30 years old and is exactly what you were asking for. I am going to guess it is slightly less than 1/8" full flat grind, wicked sharp. If it didn't work out for woodsbumming you would at least buy a great inexpensive kitchen knife.
 
Stop in at the local TJ Maxx, or similar discount place, and just buy an inexpensive 8 inch Chef knife. Should be able to find a Calphelon brand or something like that for under $20.
 
Below is one of my very humble Smithfields. With a good fine convex edge on it retaining sharpness isn't the issue one might anticipate. I'm sure it would be a lot worse if I just dubbed a scratchy edge on it with a butcher's steel but done like this it's a whole new ballgame. It's only made of Mora class stainless and I give it grief it was never intended to take. It's half the weight of my golok and I sometimes do press it into service as a light machete. In fact, my first few tests involved cross grain chopping of some 2” 3yr dry beach poles. Easy day. I've got 5*1cm inner tube rubber band on the handle for a high traction grip and it doesn't fear the bucket. There's not much not to like 'cos it matches what I put it against exactly.
Yeah that's another use I want it for. Every now and again, read very seldom, I encounter a trail that is slightly overgrown with blackberry vines. A nice long blade would be nice.


Oh and I forgot...the salsa was DELICIOUS.:D
 
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