Kizer 3404A3- Pictures/Observations

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I initially purchased this knife for a few reasons but namely for one: To see if the Chinese had finally designed, and executed a great folder using modern materials all in the promised $100-$200 value. Plenty of companies have had knives made in China to good quality levels but I had yet to see a Chinese made, Chinese designed, Chinese Company try to hit the USA Market as hard as Kizer.

While I do appreciate American labor, and while we will briefly ignore the controversy regarding Kizard/Mr. Britton (until proof is brought on) I just had to give this knife a try.

The folder is following pretty time tested designs mixed with modern technologies/materials. The basics, it has a spear point blade, with a curved handle to mimic the hands contours. A framelock, thumb studs, and a pocket clip are present in the knife.
The materials are what can be accepted as high end (provided craftsmanship is there to back it up). S35VN (claimed by Mfr) and Titanium along with steel/aluminum for the hardware. As far as I can tell this particular model (3404-A3) is not being accused of copying anyone's design, and according to Kizer Cutlery they are licensing the LBS from Rick.





First thing is first. I promised an edge retention result. That will have to wait until next week. The factory is unfortunately too buffed to be cutting manila rope (it is VERY sharp). I will reprofile or resharpen it to give it an adequate edge.
The knife out of the box is impressive. If you see any scratches that was me from taking it apart.
I could not find any flaws in the high degree of fit and finish apart from a slightly off center blade.

The tight tolerances are seeing through out the knives. No piece of the knife just fell off when the screws were removed except for the LBS by design (the LBS and screw are held together, so when the screw is removed so is the LBS). The pocket clip, handle scales, stand offs, and blade stop are all held in place by the handles via friction even when the screws are removed (albeit for the stands offs one them favored one scale while the other 2 favored the opposite). I could not remove the stand offs nor blade stop with my hands, they are pretty tight in there.
The countersunk (inlayed) pocket clip is a nice touch. The sharply chambered screws are a pleasant surprise (I am tired of seeing garden variety rounded screws). The pivot is also a nice change (whether it's Britton or not is not for discussion here). The single point drilled detent hole is also a high end touch (only one side is drilled, and is not drilled through). The EDM lock bar really looks cleaner than the wider gap knives, this is something I wish were more common in knives (ZT has pretty much adopted this cut out method a while back and I like it).
The lock bar, when the knife is closed, also sits close to match the rest of the handle's level so it is does not feel weird when holding. It is not perfect at all but I can see where they paid attention to it in the design room. Smooth touch.

The lockbar geometry makes it lock up solidly and securely while lockbar face carbidizing keeps it from sticking. Yup you heard right it's got a carbidized lockbar face. The ceramic detent ball as well as the narrow but thick bronze phosphor washers help smooth out the action. I hate to say this but after breaking it in, it is now dangerously close to smooth as the sebbies I've owned. (after cleaning, lubing using M-Pro 7) :D





The flipper works well and can be engaged with either hand (I am heavily right handed yet can deploy the knife with my left hand with consistency). The lock bar is smooth to disengage with 0 stick and no friction. The knife has 0 blade play.
The blade profile, and tapers are all done to classic standards. Hollow ground classic spear point. Great for stabbing, slicing, and ease of maintenance. The handle contours well in the hand in multiple grips. The flipper, apart from giving you a 2nd mechanism to engage the knife, helps add a sense of security knowing your hand will not slide over the blade's edge when the blade is open. Gimping is done well. Not too rough, not too smooth with a good bit of track.

Overall this knife represents the Chinese seriously into getting in the USA market for high end knives. However in my opinion it will not last long (or at least in this price point). The price point of $100 (even with Chinese labor, and low cost of titanium in China) there has to be something going on that we are not being told or are being lied to. My best as a jack guesses are: They are not using S35VN, OR they are selling them at cost or at a loss (or both). Crucible rep confirmed they have bought their steel.

Let's get a brief break down as to what I can guess is being done at the Kizer factory. I will exclude my pending investigation theories of having magical elfs or oompa loompas or having USA made knives imported to China then branded as Chinese made to my self.

Titanium frames Surface grinding, 3D Machining (drill/cut outs and contours), EDM Cut out for the Lock bar, carbidizing the lock bar, sand blasting (or bead blasting)
Standoffs: Machined then polished up
LBS: Machined then rounded/chambered then polished
Pivot: Machined
Blade: Machined then probably hollow ground via two wheels. Stone washed, and heat treated in-house to 58-60 hrc (at least per Kizer's claims)
Blade stop: Press fitted (possibly machined)
Detent: One side drilled, ceramic ball, likely done on the CNC when the frames are being done.




New pictures








 
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I think Kizer is proving that some costs for a knife are name. That or they are doing a low intro price to get a foot in the market before they increase (which makes sense). My Kizer is lovely, and although it needed a little tinkering to get perfect I love it now. They are pretty Hinderer-y, but that is good. Similar is not the same, and his designs are a good general platform for a well rounded knife.

I looked at the knife you got, but decided to get the dimpled VG-10 model instead (I think 4404). For $100 I couldn't be much happier, unless the clip was a lefty friendly.
 
[video=youtube;WCmv2Bim95E]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCmv2Bim95E[/video]

Video is up.

I will be honest, it's a knife that is hard to swallow even now I am fighting the urge to sell it because it's Chinese made yet wanting to keep it because it's such insanely well made knife. I won't lie and say I don't have some resentment for Chinese made knives with all the clones, copyright infringements, and overall shady practices. Even when I bought this knife my real intent was to disclose how a Chinese knife could not hold a candle to a USA made knife. I honestly figured it would be a decent knife at best, but I was not expecting this level of quality in the slightest.

It does more than hold a candle, it exceeds USA Made knives in the same price range, or even double the price point (and even some knives well above that price point).
And if made in the USA would no doubt be a contender to the high end $300+ knives. Join it with a known maker, and I could see this knife fetching the $350-$400 range.
 
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Kizer knives aren't perfect. Their warranty isn't 100% set up for US customers, and a lot of people need to tinker with their knives a little out of box. Mine needed the washers polished, the screws broken open (everything was threadlocked red), the lock bar needed bent in, the detent track needed worn in (done by cycling the knife with heavy pressure on the lock), and the blade needed a serious reprofile.

Mind you, I have to do this with almost or very new knife, and the entire time investment (outside the sharpening) is about an hour. I have never bought a new knife that was perfectly dialed in right out the box, but that is understandable because my desires on a knife are very exacting and easily reached by me (I prefer a strong lock, and a strong detent).

As for precision machining, my knife is hard to get apart. The tolerances are so tight that everything has to be manhandled apart and back together. I could run this knife with only the pocket clip and pivot screws, and it would never fall apart.
 
Kizer knives aren't perfect. Their warranty isn't 100% set up for US customers, and a lot of people need to tinker with their knives a little out of box. Mine needed the washers polished, the screws broken open (everything was threadlocked red), the lock bar needed bent in, the detent track needed worn in (done by cycling the knife with heavy pressure on the lock), and the blade needed a serious reprofile.

Mind you, I have to do this with almost or very new knife, and the entire time investment (outside the sharpening) is about an hour. I have never bought a new knife that was perfectly dialed in right out the box, but that is understandable because my desires on a knife are very exacting and easily reached by me (I prefer a strong lock, and a strong detent).

As for precision machining, my knife is hard to get apart. The tolerances are so tight that everything has to be manhandled apart and back together. I could run this knife with only the pocket clip and pivot screws, and it would never fall apart.

You got the VG10 laminated model didnt you? Those are pain to get smooth, happens even on Kershaw/ZT laminated/folded lines as well as CRK damascus models. (Albeit they have gotten way way better).

I just finished giving it a bit of a touch up on the washers/tang/etc. Polished out the screws a tad bit, then polished the washers to a mirror finish. It's now smoother than any seb I've owned.

Edit: Forgot. yeah you are right though because even some of the higher end knives will need work to get it perfect. Out of the box all I really did was lube/clean.

Atm I cannot get the damn blade to center perfectly. It's either slightly off center, or a bit off center. I am sure I can fix it if I remove some material from the washers but rather not.
Warranty is indeed an issue however it was my understanding that they are currently working on that and for now they will do an exchange system with the vendor.
 
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Sounds like this is for sure is a brand to watch in the next few years.
 
Sounds like this is for sure is a brand to watch in the next few years.

Why watch? Just buy one now while they are cheap. I found that they pivot is easily adjusted with a 5mm Allen wrench. I'm sure something like a T40 will also work.

As for my knife, I got the dimpled G10/Ti model with the boring VG-10 blade. I was super tempted to get one of the cool anodized full Ti handled Damascus blade ones, but the dimpled texture sold it on me (it reminds me of a poser ZT 560, but for under half the price).
 
Why watch? Just buy one now while they are cheap. I found that they pivot is easily adjusted with a 5mm Allen wrench. I'm sure something like a T40 will also work.

As for my knife, I got the dimpled G10/Ti model with the boring VG-10 blade. I was super tempted to get one of the cool anodized full Ti handled Damascus blade ones, but the dimpled texture sold it on me (it reminds me of a poser ZT 560, but for under half the price).

Interesting. I heard various comments that their VG10 line up (laminated models) weren't quite up to snuff but knives like the machines titanium w/ s35vn were on another level.
Anyways I may buy a 2nd kizer in a month or so.

To add to the OP, I tried to contact Kizer via BF for some screws however haven't heard back.
 
The Kizer 3404A3 is very well made from quality parts and the price of around $115 is actually neither too low or high to arouse so-called suspicions. Kizer just needs to have better warranty, service and support.

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Wanted to report back.
I did a very very amateur test of cutting paracord. It's behaving way better than steels like 8Cr13mov. It's seems to be rust resistant to some extent (left it overnight with strawberry juice). No rust what so ever. Cleaned up with no issues.
I didn't want to risk lemon or something stronger in acidity since for all I knew it could be some cheaper steel and lemon juice could form some nasty discoloration.
Edge has been touched up to be back to shaving sharp using Spyderco Sharpmaker Medium/Fine stones following approximately 40 degree inclusive (about stock edge)

I will be doing a cardboard cutting test soon, I will not be doing rope cutting. Easier clean up honestly.
 
I'm interested in this knife, will they update it with a tip up option? If so, I'll wait before I check it out.
 
This in particular is the one I'd want to try the brand out with. Thanks for the pics/video. Hope I see a tip up version down the road, if not I'll just deal with the tip down. Seems good enough to overlook tip down but I'd hate to buy one and see a tip up version.
 
Okay edge retention tests is in. Been cutting rope for about hour. Truly puzzled at this knife.
I stopped the test prematurely. Something is off. Either the grind is off, or my sharpening was off. Knife made it to 60 cuts before I stopped.

While it out performs 8c13mov ( completely blunts at 80-100 cuts). The edge currently can slice printer paper but snags constantly without having any sort of edge defect (maybe clogged with manila rope). I've cleaned the edge a few times but same thing. I've seen this happen before on a Benchmade M4 steel with a burnt tip, which I had the blade replaced on (fixed the issue). Potential HT issue? No measurable edge defects can be noticed by running my finger/nail over the edge.

My testing method is a tad bit different from Ankerson. Mine does not measure downward force, and amount of cuts. It cuts until the rope is cut completely (average is about 10 slices). I do not own an apex style system, so I cannot control angles down to a T. Blunt is measured when it can no longer cleanly slice paper. Generally speaking my results often are about 2/3rd's what Ankerson gets with his regular testing method just because I just a much more wide angle due 20 degree's each side being a much more popular edge grind from factory.

For now it's inconclusive to be honest, all that can really be said is that it outperforms cheap 8cr13mov steel by far and is more rust resistant.

Edit: Checked the edge. I decided to go ahead and reprofile this tomorrow and retest. Going to get it dialed to 20 degree both sides and see how that comes out.
 
I would definately reprofile to 40 degree inclusive. David from kizer stated somewhere that their knives leave the factory with a 50 degree inclusive edge. While I can't say much for edge retention, mine is scary sharp and pops hairs.

I did cut into a car bumper when my Ma got in an accident (fender bender; bumper got pushed into the wheel well, had to carve it out) and it was still razor sharp afterwards.
 
25 degree's per side? Sheesh. I am pretty sure mine is under that but we'll see once I reprofile.
 
Okay I have to take back what I just said.
SO turns out the edge is fine, and the issue with the testing was strawberry juice on the very edge. The edge is slicing paper without a problem that I cleaned it with windex and noticed on the napkin that there was strawberry juice.
Count is at 60 cuts atm. Will continue testing tomorrow.
 
Great write up!

I've been following Kizer for a while. My guess is that soon Kizer is going to force many American makers to respond by either increasing features or lowering price. Regardless of whether people like owning a knife with Chinese origins, the reality is that manufacturing quality in China seems to be improving across the board, an in some cases these are huge leaps.

In some ways, Kizer seems to be the Fenix flashlights of knives. And if there is anything we can learn from Fenix, it is that lower-budget items originating from China are often capable of competing (sometimes outcompeting) North American and European makers, and that when this occurs is completely changes the game.
 
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