AWESOME! I can't wait for your review. Feel free to post on this thread. I'll be anxiously waiting. Looking for info, specifically, on sharpening HARD STEELed RECURVES like my S30v mini-skirmish
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KME Sharpener
- Thread starter nickE10mm
- Start date
AWESOME! I can't wait for your review. Feel free to post on this thread. I'll be anxiously waiting. Looking for info, specifically, on sharpening HARD STEELed RECURVES like my S30v mini-skirmish
Look forward to your opinion on the KME.
With seven stones to try I guess it may take some time for you to get back with a review.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2004
- Messages
- 407
Got mine today too!
Real piece of hardware! Nothing flimsy at all.
But really glad I got the base. I could not have held it and sharpened too.
I've never used any sharpener before. So it will be an adventure.
Tried sharpening a SAK blade. Too small.
But the med stone works well on the end of the clamp!
Ended up just holding the stone upside down in the clamp on the table top and trying freehand. Got it reasonable but nothing super duper.
Kershaw Chive.
Another smaller knife.
Got the front curve to the tip very sharp.
The internal curve got sharp but not as sharp as the tip end curve.
I REALLY LIKE the guide rod 'eye'. My brother's lansky has a lot of play and will jump the grove. There is no way the rod can move other than back and forth.
Looking good so far.
Will try more once the kids are settled down.
Real piece of hardware! Nothing flimsy at all.
But really glad I got the base. I could not have held it and sharpened too.
I've never used any sharpener before. So it will be an adventure.
Tried sharpening a SAK blade. Too small.
But the med stone works well on the end of the clamp!
Ended up just holding the stone upside down in the clamp on the table top and trying freehand. Got it reasonable but nothing super duper.
Kershaw Chive.
Another smaller knife.
Got the front curve to the tip very sharp.
The internal curve got sharp but not as sharp as the tip end curve.
I REALLY LIKE the guide rod 'eye'. My brother's lansky has a lot of play and will jump the grove. There is no way the rod can move other than back and forth.
Looking good so far.
Will try more once the kids are settled down.
Does anyone know if the KME system will work on a serrated edge
I do not think they list a stone for it on their website. My GATCO came with a stone for serrated edges. It is a triangular stone like this one:
I haven't checked the diameter of the rods but I am guessing that, if the GATCO rod will fit in the bushing on the KME, it would work on the KME. I haven't needed it for the GATCO. I only have two serrated knives. Both are Chicago Cutlery bread knives and they are not in need of sharpening.
What do you mean by "jump the groove"? The GATCO is a similar design and I have not had a problem. Are the rods too short? I always make sure I fully extend them on the GATCO.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2004
- Messages
- 407
Got my brothers little drop point folder hair shaving.
25 Degrees, about 10 passes each side with Diamond course, then 10 passes each side Diamond fine.
Then my Dad brought over some 30year old knifes that had been file sharpened by his late uncle. They are more like kitchen knives than hunting knives. 25 degrees still ok?
Not ever sure where to start. I'm guessing super course then move down the grits. I think it would be easier sharpening butter knives. But I'll sure learn on them. If I can get THEM hair shaving sharp, I'll consider myself past pure amateur.
25 Degrees, about 10 passes each side with Diamond course, then 10 passes each side Diamond fine.
Then my Dad brought over some 30year old knifes that had been file sharpened by his late uncle. They are more like kitchen knives than hunting knives. 25 degrees still ok?
Not ever sure where to start. I'm guessing super course then move down the grits. I think it would be easier sharpening butter knives. But I'll sure learn on them. If I can get THEM hair shaving sharp, I'll consider myself past pure amateur.
Using the GATCO I like to take my kitchen cutlery down as low as I can go.
The KME goes down to 17°. If they are kitchen knives I would start at the 17° setting. If they serve utility duty then take them where they need to go. I have read that you should let the knife tell you what angle to use. Knives with different steels, grinds, thicknesses, uses... can support different angles.
Sharpen them at the angle they currently have and see how they cut. If they cut fine for the use with minimal or no chipping then you might want to leave the angle alone. If they do not cut nice lower the angle. If they chip or won't support the edge then increase the angle.
- Joined
- Nov 17, 1999
- Messages
- 3,061
Shaman - Thanks for posting on this unit. Nice looking device! I'm interested to hear the rest of your report.
- Did you purchase the Dia Sharp 4 X 1 Set?
- Will the Holder accept the 6 X 2 Single Grit Dia Sharps?
(I assume it would since KME sells them on their Site)
- Based on your review, do you think 2.5" is the smallest blade that the device will sharpen without difficulty?
Thanks in advance.
- Did you purchase the Dia Sharp 4 X 1 Set?
- Will the Holder accept the 6 X 2 Single Grit Dia Sharps?
(I assume it would since KME sells them on their Site)
- Based on your review, do you think 2.5" is the smallest blade that the device will sharpen without difficulty?
Thanks in advance.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2004
- Messages
- 407
Well, after some experimenting.
I got the older knives, which were totally rounded, back to cutting and while not shaving arm sharp they can slice paper easily from heel to tip.
So, I thought I was getting it down and tried to sharpen my brothers Buck 102.
Not working out so well. This one I want to get scary sharp and can just not seem to do it.
I have the stone set and the diamond course, fine, extra fine.
Any suggestions on angle, stone to start, and strokes per side?
I just don't seem to be getting it on this blade.
Buck website says they sharpen down to 15 degrees.
The Buck 102 is so narrow, I can not get even down to 17.
I got the older knives, which were totally rounded, back to cutting and while not shaving arm sharp they can slice paper easily from heel to tip.
So, I thought I was getting it down and tried to sharpen my brothers Buck 102.
Not working out so well. This one I want to get scary sharp and can just not seem to do it.
I have the stone set and the diamond course, fine, extra fine.
Any suggestions on angle, stone to start, and strokes per side?
I just don't seem to be getting it on this blade.
Buck website says they sharpen down to 15 degrees.
The Buck 102 is so narrow, I can not get even down to 17.
When sharpening pretty much anything I use a sharpie to ensure that I am hitting the entire bevel and matching the angle. If you are changing the angle of the bevel it will tell you which way you are going, how fast or slow it is going, and how much work you have ahead.
At work when I got the KME from our shipping dept we opened it up. A buddy had a knife that I had previously sharpened successfully on the GATCO. We clamped it in for grins and we immediatly saw that there was no way the KME could sharpen it. It was just to narrow and it seems that the KME requires a bit more blade sticking out than the GATCO. With the GATCO the narrowest I have tried and failed at reaching were the smaller SAK types like the Classic.
The KME clamp seems shorter and thicker while the GATCO clamp seems longer and thinner. The nose of the clamp on my GATCO is pretty thinned down from the stones hitting it. I am sure the KME will get the same work over but it looks like that might be a problem due to the profile of the clamp jaws.
I have been fiddling with the KME a bit. I haven't actually sharpened anything yet. It seems like the stone holder will not be a problem like I thought. I think I still like having the GATCO's stones all in holders with rods and ready to go. The GATCO diamonds are the interupted type with the diamond surface interupted by plastic dots. The KME can use the better diamond hones and any hone that is 4" x 1" for that matter. I assume that you could even cut a stone down to size if you desired.
I just tried out the KME versus the GATCO.
The diamond hones on the KME are much nicer than the ones for the GATCO.
The clamp on the KME offered more flex between knife and clamp than on the GATCO. The clamp-up itself seemed more secure on the GATCO. There are more moving parts on the KME so that was not terribly surprising.
Changing between stones was quick and didn't interupt the flow of work like I thought it would.
The stones on the GATCO measured 4.625" x .75". The stones on the KME are 1" x 4". I like the longer stones on the GATCO. The clamp on the GATCO allows you to take advantage of the longer stone. The stones on the GATCO are wider than a Lansky but narrower than a KME. The KME stones seemed to have a bit of trouble with the recurve on my EDC Kershaw Vapor.
The standard stones between the two kits compared favorably. I didn't find any advantage. The stone that Ron from KME called a "surgeon's" stone was very nice.
The rods on the GATCO are Ø.125" and the rod on the KME is Ø.156". I found that I can use the KME stone holder and rod on the GATCO.
I didn't really see a need for the spherical bushing. WIth the additional flex in the clamp it seems that any advantage would be negated. With out the spherical bushing and with slots like the GATCO and Lansky you gain the shallower angles.
The base on the KME is much more stable than the GATCO's. If you do not clamp the GATCO base down it tends to get top heavy with larger knives like the 10" chef's and Santuko I have. If you screw or clamp the GATCO base down the clamp will not rotate to present the knife at a different angle when you switch sides of the blade. The clamp on the KME can rotate 360°.
The main thing I liked about the KME was the ability to use the nicer stones of your choice. I really didn't mind clamping and unclamping the stones.
I thought some of the complexity in the clamping and rotation system is uneeded. With minimal use flipping the GATCO clamp in the holder is second nature to me.
I really like the price of the GATCO. It is quite a bit cheaper and if you buy it from the right vendor the base/clamp holder is free.
They both will help you sharpen a blade. I will keep tinkering but sofar from my limited testing I still prefer the GATCO.
My preference would be a GATCO clamp with a GATCO style slotted angle guide on a rotational KME base with a KME style stone holder.
With both I still need to finish up on the strops to get a more refined edge.
The diamond hones on the KME are much nicer than the ones for the GATCO.
The clamp on the KME offered more flex between knife and clamp than on the GATCO. The clamp-up itself seemed more secure on the GATCO. There are more moving parts on the KME so that was not terribly surprising.
Changing between stones was quick and didn't interupt the flow of work like I thought it would.
The stones on the GATCO measured 4.625" x .75". The stones on the KME are 1" x 4". I like the longer stones on the GATCO. The clamp on the GATCO allows you to take advantage of the longer stone. The stones on the GATCO are wider than a Lansky but narrower than a KME. The KME stones seemed to have a bit of trouble with the recurve on my EDC Kershaw Vapor.
The standard stones between the two kits compared favorably. I didn't find any advantage. The stone that Ron from KME called a "surgeon's" stone was very nice.
The rods on the GATCO are Ø.125" and the rod on the KME is Ø.156". I found that I can use the KME stone holder and rod on the GATCO.
I didn't really see a need for the spherical bushing. WIth the additional flex in the clamp it seems that any advantage would be negated. With out the spherical bushing and with slots like the GATCO and Lansky you gain the shallower angles.
The base on the KME is much more stable than the GATCO's. If you do not clamp the GATCO base down it tends to get top heavy with larger knives like the 10" chef's and Santuko I have. If you screw or clamp the GATCO base down the clamp will not rotate to present the knife at a different angle when you switch sides of the blade. The clamp on the KME can rotate 360°.
The main thing I liked about the KME was the ability to use the nicer stones of your choice. I really didn't mind clamping and unclamping the stones.
I thought some of the complexity in the clamping and rotation system is uneeded. With minimal use flipping the GATCO clamp in the holder is second nature to me.
I really like the price of the GATCO. It is quite a bit cheaper and if you buy it from the right vendor the base/clamp holder is free.
They both will help you sharpen a blade. I will keep tinkering but sofar from my limited testing I still prefer the GATCO.
My preference would be a GATCO clamp with a GATCO style slotted angle guide on a rotational KME base with a KME style stone holder.
With both I still need to finish up on the strops to get a more refined edge.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2004
- Messages
- 407
I didn't see any flex in the jaws.
Maybe I was not pushing down hard enough.
The spring in the back seems to hold it tight into the divets.
Maybe I need to tighten it up a bit.
From what I have seen they are both good systems. I have a lot more experience with the GATCO. I will have to use the KME a bit more to get a better feel for it.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2004
- Messages
- 407
I was asked the following (paraphrasing):
>> How short can you sharpen?
I got this knife to hair shaving sharp.
>> Do the 2" stones fit the stone holder?
No, the 2" stones are for the Broadhead Sharpener
>> How was the packaging and if you ordered extra stones was shipping higher?
I ordered the basic stone kit, sharpener base, and then the diamond set as well. It all came in the same hard case with foam form holder, no extra shipping for me. I did call and speak with Ron direct, I am not sure how the website manages shipping of extra goods.
>> How short can you sharpen?
I got this knife to hair shaving sharp.
>> Do the 2" stones fit the stone holder?
No, the 2" stones are for the Broadhead Sharpener
>> How was the packaging and if you ordered extra stones was shipping higher?
I ordered the basic stone kit, sharpener base, and then the diamond set as well. It all came in the same hard case with foam form holder, no extra shipping for me. I did call and speak with Ron direct, I am not sure how the website manages shipping of extra goods.
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2007
- Messages
- 398
You might check out the DMT ws4xx 4 inch xxcoarse ski hone. It's one mean mammy jammy, although I don't think it is as tough as their d8xx. I tried to wear mine out, and I think I succeeded. It cut like a son of a gun at first, but now it just skates over zdp and s30v. I just ordered a new one that I will take better care of. I ordered my first one from Allprotools, but I don't see it on their website anymore. I just ordered a new one from DMT for about the same price.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2004
- Messages
- 407
I know it is not the tool but the operator. I've gotten a couple knives hair popping. Others it is like I am sharpening in the dark while wearing mittens.
Ron of KME saw my questions and got in touch with me to help me out on my attempts with Clip Points and ancient knives.
Now THAT is service
Ron of KME saw my questions and got in touch with me to help me out on my attempts with Clip Points and ancient knives.
Now THAT is service
I hope I'm not butting in.
I read the thread and agree with this:
With that in mind, I would want to eventually be able to free hand my sharpening. The KME will handle the average sized blade and allow a person to grasp the principles of sharpening and make it possible to sharpen some of the really large and really small blades.
I dont think there is a mechanically assisted sharpening sytem that can do it all. But the KME is a quality peice of equipment that can allow you to sharpen most knives. I have seen some knives that went too long between sharpening and the KME made setting the bevels pretty easy.
I can sharpen a knife freehand, but the fact is my eye is not as accurate as something mechanical. When I'm in the field, I can keep the knife pretty sharp by eyeballing it. When I get back to my work bench, I can reset the bevels and know they are right.
I'll admit, I like the KME partly because Ron has been so helpfull. I think that's worth a lot.
Lin
I read the thread and agree with this:
With that in mind, I would want to eventually be able to free hand my sharpening. The KME will handle the average sized blade and allow a person to grasp the principles of sharpening and make it possible to sharpen some of the really large and really small blades.
I dont think there is a mechanically assisted sharpening sytem that can do it all. But the KME is a quality peice of equipment that can allow you to sharpen most knives. I have seen some knives that went too long between sharpening and the KME made setting the bevels pretty easy.
I can sharpen a knife freehand, but the fact is my eye is not as accurate as something mechanical. When I'm in the field, I can keep the knife pretty sharp by eyeballing it. When I get back to my work bench, I can reset the bevels and know they are right.
I'll admit, I like the KME partly because Ron has been so helpfull. I think that's worth a lot.
Lin
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2005
- Messages
- 10,038
This is what I have too. DMT makes short work of S30V compared to a Sharpmaker for e.g. but I find myself using the Diafolds free-hand far more than with the clamp. Glad you guys like the KME though.