KMG purchase

Fiddleback

Fiddleback

Knifemaker
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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I am going to sell off a portion of my collection this week and get a KMG grinder. So I have some questions before I make this purchase.

Firstly, hollow grinds are not my style. I own a couple, and thats enough for me. I just plainly am not interested in doing any. What I prefer is convex grinds to a zero edge. With that in mind, is there any reason to get the 10" wheel model??? Restated: What model should I get to start with????

Also, should I just get the motor from Beaumont, or is there a better option out there $$ wise? I've looked around, and that $245 price isn't bad for a new motor, Grizzly sells some cheaper, but really not all that much cheaper. What do you guys think?
 
firts off you will be happy with what ever you decide to get:> i bought the kmg 10 model as it came with both a platen and a 10 in wheel. not having the wheel just limits your options IMHO. one thing i did not do that i kick myself in the a$$ for everyday is not saving just a little bit longer and getting one with the speed control. sure i can change the belts and change my speeds but to do so you have to stop everything and adjust this realy gets me out of the swing of things. (personal failing) , also about the motor i bought mine from rob because me and electricity dont get along and his came with agreat instructions so that even i could wire it up!!!(i blew up my stove before.....dont ask) whatever you decide let us know
peace bro
 
Gracias. I am either gonna get the 8 or 10 inch model. I figure I'll need a wheel. Just don't know whether the 10" is so important for my style knife. Not a lot of saving going with the 8 anyway.

I'm leaning toward just getting his motor. What the heck. As to wiring it, I've done quite a bit of that anyway. I'm not saving an extra 500 for variable speed though. I'll just move the belt. That system is the case on a lot of my woodworking tools too.

OOO. Also, is that base plate important at all? Does/will he include a template for me to make my own??? I'd hate to pay someone for a plate of drilled holes.
 
I am kicking myself that I didn't buy the 14" wheel with mine. If you are used to hollow grinds with a tight radius, the 14" wheel is enough of a radius that it gives good blade geometry from small, 1/2 deep blades up to 1 1/2" blades, in my limited experience. If you don't think you will use the wheels, get them later.

There isn't a thing wrong with convex grinds(Moran edge) and are excellent for heavy users and get sharp as hell. I haven't asked around to see if anyone else has concerns that users my have trouble sharpening that type of edge but it would be a good to find out what others think about that.

I believe the hollow grind is so popular because it allows the edge to get thinner while keeping the mass of the spine relatively intact. Thinner cuts better.

That's about $.005 worth. I'm workin my way up to $.02. :)
 
Thanks Kerry!!

Does the platten attachment facilitate convex grinds???
 
Fiddleback said:
Thanks Kerry!!

Does the platten attachment facilitate convex grinds???
Click to expand...

Yes and NO! but you might want it and the tool rest to help in profiling your blades. I'm not trying to sell you a wheel or anything but they are handy for things other than grinding bevels. I use my for cleaning up the handle and blade profile and leather work.

I suppose if you never get it, you won't miss it :D but it would be a step backwards for me to all of a sudden lose mine.

Reason for editing.....I was thinking of the platen when I said that. The attachment without the platen is DEFINITELY NEEDED for convex grinds
 
My take on this is that you NEED the platen. It will let you get your grinds established (and do flat grinds). Then, if you remove the platen itself so you have a slack belt setup you can finish your convex edges that way. If you want to go hog wild on convex grinds, I understand that the rotary platen attachment is the way to go. It's a LOT of $$ though.

I have a 10" wheel which I find I don't use much, but for the things I use it for it's indispensable. If, for example you like clip-points, the radius of the 10" wheel is really nice for cleaning up the clip and grinding a false edge on it (if that's your thing). I also like my small wheel attachment, though the $$ add up FAST with one due to wheel cost. I'd say that you could save a few $$ right now by just getting the flat platen model and buy more accessories as you find they'd be useful to you.

As for a base plate, that's your call, but it is just a plate with holes drilled for motor/grinder mounting.

-d
 
The Rotary Platen is an excellent tool attachment for crating convex grinds. It's a bit pricey, but well worth it in my book.

I recommend getting a separate tooling arm for each attachment, and last but not least, get the small wheel attachment and with some different wheels. They are excellent for detail and handle work and will save you loads of time and sanity.
 
I'm gonna get a wheel model. Either the 8 or ten.

I really appreciate all the feedback guys!
 
You will be very pleased with your purchase, the KMG is one of the best. I'd get the rotary platen as well, very nice tool to have.

:)

-Darren
 
That rotary platten does look awesome.
 
the base plate is nice as it gives you a VERY sturdy mount but as previosly stated it is just a 1/4 in plate with holes drilled. i only bought mine because i had just sold a camera and had a little extra $. the next purchase for me at least will be a small wheel attachment and another tooling arm. its not hard to change attachments but it sure will be nice to just be able to switch out arms.
 
docdredd said:
and another tooling arm. its not hard to change attachments but it sure will be nice to just be able to switch out arms.
Click to expand...

Thank you for mentioning this. I had no idea the diff attachments didn't come with an arm.
 
well that would have been a shock when u opend your box :>
no prob man i gotta go back to work ill chk in l8r
peace jon
 
Fiddleback said:
Thank you for mentioning this. I had no idea the diff attachments didn't come with an arm.
Click to expand...

That said, the arm is just a piece of 1 1/2" solid square with some drilled and tapped holes. If you're on a budget, check your local steel supplier. I think my last extra tooling arm cost me $12.

-d
 
deker said:
That said, the arm is just a piece of 1 1/2" solid square with some drilled and tapped holes. If you're on a budget, check your local steel supplier. I think my last extra tooling arm cost me $12.

-d
Click to expand...

Neato. Thanks for the tip!
 
Looking back...if I could do it over again...

I would start out with the KMG-PL, the basic motor and the step pulleys.

You can do a convex grind on the flat, as well as the slack part...email for an explanation if needed.

If you don't do hollow grinds, you don't truly need a contact wheel. You can use the flat platen for everything else.

When you've built up some funds....get variable speed. Your "finishing" ability will go up tremendously...but not 100% necessary for starting out.

Then, you might add a wheel later on....and possibly the rotary platen.

I use mine now and then....and keep it mostly because when I need it....I really need it...and it's the best tool for the job.

I use my 14" wheel quite a bit...but almost entirely for hollow-grinding.

8" wheel is used very little....false edges....finishing flats...


But this is my way of working. You might lay out a little spreadsheet with the various parts and try to prioritize what you need most, then start acquiring the pieces.

Easier on the wallet...
 
Fiddleback,
I drove down to Rob's shop last week and purchased my KMG:D I have not gotten it set up completely due to lack of time, but could not make myself spend the 245 on his motor. I can get one though Grainger with my discount and save well over 100 bucks. I'm cheap so this matters. Rob's motor may be better quality but I'll risk it. I like an 8" wheel for contouring the underside of my handles. This is just what feels comfortable in my hand. I'm sure you can figure out how to mount your motor without the mounting plate. Also, as was already stated, I already made an extra tooling arm. Probably took about as much time as responding to your thread.
Good luck,
Matt Doyle
 
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