KMG purchase

Hey Fiddleback, it can be dangerous asking questions about grinders and how we use them :). You're going to get about as many opinions as there are people, but that's a good thing. You will make whatever you get work for you and then you will figure out what you "need". Have fun at it, whatever you end up getting.
 
mdoyle said:
Fiddleback,
I drove down to Rob's shop last week and purchased my KMG:D I have not gotten it set up completely due to lack of time, but could not make myself spend the 245 on his motor. I can get one though Grainger with my discount and save well over 100 bucks. I'm cheap so this matters. Rob's motor may be better quality but I'll risk it. I like an 8" wheel for contouring the underside of my handles. This is just what feels comfortable in my hand. I'm sure you can figure out how to mount your motor without the mounting plate. Also, as was already stated, I already made an extra tooling arm. Probably took about as much time as responding to your thread.
Good luck,
Matt Doyle
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You must get a good discount!! Its 45 dollars cheaperish for me. The Grizzly was ~200 also. Ehh. Looks like I'm going to get the one you got though with the 8" wheel.


MUCH thanks to ALL of you for your advice. It is an honor to post here. Much appreciated.
 
Order placed!! Can't wait!!!!! Now I gotta make a base plate!!
 
I have a feeling that the motor you saw for 100 less isn't an NEMA enclosed unit. If this is the case. Stay away. Far away. You don't want a non enclosure motor on a grinder. Also, check the duty rating. Is it continuous duty. Makes a big difference if you are serious about grinding and shaping. Some times there are reasons quality equipment cost more. Mike
 
http://www.caffreyknives.net/KMGarticle.html
Check this thread out. See the rotary tool Ed had made for his KMG. I bought the basic with the platen. I am going to add something like Ed's as soon as I can.
I change the belts from pulley to pulley for speed. I don't think variable speed will make be better. Maybe faster???

Take Care
TJ
 
I don't believe Rob offers the platen with the 2" & 3" rubber wheels anymore.
 
Guys, I need a layout for the drill holes in the bottom plate. I didn't spend 105 on a base plate. A guy from here e-mailed me a pdf of a base plate, but its measurements don't match the ones from the KMG website. I'm going to go buy a plate of steel. I can drill it myself. But I don't want to guess on the placement of the motor!!
 
Mr. Lovett,
The motor was indeed a tefc motor. I cannot comment on the duty cycle without the catlg infront of me.
Matt
 
Hey, anybody mount the KMG directly to plywood. I got a quote of 45 dollars for a 1/2" x 18.5" x 18.5" plate of steel today. Hell, I paid 41 dollars for ten 80 grit zircona belts today. That plate is expensive, I'd much rather get ten more belts. Then I've gotta drill and tap a 1/2" plate of steel.

I was considering glueing up 2 thicknesses of 3/4" plywood and mounting to that. Anybody got any reason that wouldn't work??
 
Put it on a peice of plywood or MDF and mount the motor with a heavy duty hinge. Works great and is excellent to change the belt on the step pulleys. Not the best picture but this is my set-up. I mounted the motor on a small peice of plywood and then attached it to the MDF base with a heavy duty hinge. Works great and cost about $12.
 

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Sure that will work, MDF being better/heavier/more stable. (jll346, love the antenna :) )
 
Awesome!! Just what I wanted to know!
 
not a fan of the hinge thing....just me...


I mounted mine on two pieces of MDF. Put the Base where you want it, mark, drill. Mount with carriage bolts and washers. Piece of cake & cheap.

For the motor...put the pulley and belt on it and pull against it to tighten the belt to where it will deflect a little more than a finger's width (push down on the slack part to test). Mark holes and then drill back a bit....(1/8-1/16" past your mark) on the holes. You can also make the holes a bit oblong. Again, use carriage bolts (with washers and nut). And tighten that sucker down. I've had mine down for a couple years and have had to adjust it only once (about 3-6 mos after first setting it up).

Make sure the belt travel is perpendicular to the pulleys. You can get away with it not being 90 degrees...but why not do it right the first time?

Basically...take the same care/concern you might when building drawers in a dresser...do it right, do it once.

Best of luck! :thumbup:
 
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