kmg set up

marekz

marekz

Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Messages
1,699
what is the benefit of getting a small wheel attachment on the kmg.the prices for the smaller wheels are high. im trying to save to get a vs 2 hp for the kmg. wouldnt a 2" contact wheel be enough for the fine detailed work, i dont think i would need the small wheel attachment for the 2
' contact wheel, is it really needed?I would assume i need a slack belt attacment for the non platen work?also what benefit would the rotory platen attachment with tooling arm serve? If you can what would be the ideal set up with the kmg the basic package im getting so far is the grinder with work rest,platen, and a 10" contact wheel. besides the motor vs what else should i get. im sorry i just got lucky with some money,i am a beginer, and apologize for my ignorance. so besides the basic grinder set up mentioned above i was thinking of addind: 1.2" diameter contact wheel 2.slack belt attachment 3.spindle mount 4. tree tooling arm or spare tooling arm. I will also try to call mr.frink in the am. what else would youall get thats vital. thank you so much
 
All depends on what you are making...machetes or multiblade slipjoints. Tell us more.
 
I would say all you really need is the 1/2" small wheel and the 1" I rarely use the others. The 1/2" is super to make quick work of things that would wear out the drum sander on a dremmel and its nice having both sizes to fit other areas. Only thing, and I'm not sure if its just mine or all of them, but my 1/2" wheel is so darn noisy I have to put on the ear protection with that one. Doesn't matter what belt either. I love my KMG though. Its the best IMO.

I would also recommend the base plate to mount everything and the rack for hanging the extra attachments. I am very happy I got that with it. I wish I'd have gotten the 8" wheel also but the 10" is seeing a lot of use. When the rare moment arrives that I need a slack belt I just use the small wheel and slack up on the tension and use the long part of the belt to do it. Its tricky and it can slide off if you get carried away but in my opinion it works great and has given me little trouble. Besides if you really wanted to you could take the platten off the flat grind attachment and slack belt that way.

STR
 
What they sell as a slack belt attachment looks like the Flat platten attachment with out the actual platten. I would second getting the 1/2 inch wheel as it is good for getting in the nooks and crannies. So I would say that a 10 inch contact wheel, flat platten, and small wheel attachment would get you pretty far. Having all the attachments with their own tooling arms is also nice.

Allen
 
i am started off trying out different hunters ,bird and trouts.etc..stock removal method. i plan on learning and exploring every aspect of knifemaking from slip joints to tantos. im just starting bbut this will probably be the only chance i have to get this grinder, i wont have that kind of money again for a long while. So i want to get as much as ill need for any current to future use. thank you
 
also is a 3hp motor really neede. a 2 hp gives plenty enough power right?
 
You can just unbolt the platen from the flat platen and you have a slack belt (confession:
I've never done this because it hasn't seemed worth the hassle with the rotary platen and
using slack belt portions of the other attachment's belt paths).

I love my rotary platen, but it is expensive.

I've been thinking about getting a Bader "double bally roll" with a KMG arm to supplement or
replace my KMG small wheel attachment. Some sort of small wheel is really useful and I get
a lot of use out of mine, but the Bader attachment provides a narrower belt path to
get the full use of a small wheel and more convenient work position. On the other hand,
it doesn't have the quick change feature of the KMG attachment and small wheels are
not interchangeable between the two.
 
marekz said:
also is a 3hp motor really neede. a 2 hp gives plenty enough power right?
Click to expand...

I really can't say I have noticed needing bigger. My set up is the three tier pully one for changing speeds not the dial up. I wanted the same torque at slower speed as at the high and felt it would be the way to go at the time. I can't say I've regretted it. Infinite control would be nice at times though.

But the truth is mine is most always on the middle speed all the time so its not something missed.

STR
 
im sorry but what is the main role of the rotory plate? why would someone spend the money for it? what would it replace? thanks mark
 
does the rotory platen replace the need for the other platen and slack belt? is that what is does by adjusting the wheels? thanks
 
I'd say the KMG with a 2hp VS motor, work rest, 10" wheel, and flat platen will get you started way ahead of the game.

Add a small wheel attachment with 1" and 1/2" wheels as you can. In the mean time, use a drum sander on the dremel or a 1/2 round file for shaping.

Use the slack portion of the belt with the 10" wheel or just keep the allen wrench for the platen handy and remove it as needed for slack belt work.

When I finally poney up for either a KMG or build a clone, I still will order the rotary platen as it perfecly fits the knives I make and the way I finish, but you can get everything done on a knife without it. It's always a great addition later on if you want to spend money elsewhere. The mounting plate makes life easier as does the tool tree from all I've heard.

--nathan
 
The rotary platen gives you a moving platen surface. In other words, as the grinding belt moves, so does the industrial ribbed belt that's mounted on the rotary platen. The big benefit here is that it grinds incredibly smooth with no preceived "belt bump" from the grinding belt seam passing over a flat platen. I've also heard testimony that grind finishes are nicer on the rotary platen. Tension can be increased or decreased on the platen's belt with a jack screw. This allows you to grind almost completely flat grinds, or grind more convex grinds by slacking the belt slightly. You cant fully slack the belt or you'll risk throwing it, but I'd imagine you could get a pretty soft surface with two widely spaced pullies and less tension. Not the same as a slack belt, however as you still have a stiff backing platen belt.

Also, you can rotate the platen to various positions. Two closely spaced pullies to the front gives you a firm surface almost like a flat platen. Two slightly spaced pullies gives you a bit softer a working platen. Two widely spaced pullies to the front gives you an even more giving surface for convex work. And one 2" pulley to the front gives you a 2" contact wheel for detail or very small hollow grinding.

--nathan
 
Instead of Dremel drums I'd take about 4" of drill rod or music wire(straight) super glue on a peice of windsheild washer tubing and spiral wrap cloth backed abrasive on it. Secure either end with tail and mane (for show horses) rubber bands and youv'e got a lot more abrasive than even a 2 inch drum.
Ken
 
thanks guys i heard everything youall said but let me tell you my list:
1.kmg chasis
2.tool bar
3.tool bar tree
4.work rest
5.10" contact whell
6.2hp vs vfd
7. motor pulley
8.grinder pulley
9.drive belt
10.small diameter wheel attachment with a 1/2",1",1.5" and a 2" diameter wheel
11.rotory platen aattacment
12.base plate
so i dont really need the platen or slack belt now that im getting a rotory plate correct? thanks
 
The small wheels are useful for finger grooves, some sorts of handle contouring and just getting in places that you can't get otherwise - like up inside on a bellied knife. Sorry, I don't have a better description. If you don't have small wheels you'll make knives around the limitation and may never see the benefit.

I think much of what we use small wheels for can be done on a dremel, the trick is to hog out as much as you can with the band saw and/or the side of the wheel/platen. I can't stand using the very small wheels, it's a constant frustration trying to keep them from making divots. I'll grab a 3/4" more often than anything else.

A trick that Rob Frink mentioned on here a while back is to split your belts and use the slack belt to "shoe-shine" into whatever contours you need. It might not work for every situation a contact wheel will, but it could also fit some places that the angle of the belt coming off the attachment doesn't allow.

I've never used a 2" wheel, so I don't know how much that would do for you, but I love using the 4" wheel - it's one of my favorites for profiling, grinding inside curves and grinding thick, narrow blades.
 
Let me update by saying you want a regular platen attachment. I feel that the rotary platen is optional, but the flat platen is not.
 
definitely you want a flat platen before the rotary. I use the slack belt all the time - virtually every knife, along with the small wheel. You can, if you are pushed on your budget, get by using one or two tool arms and bolt/unbolt attachments but getting a tool arm for every attachment is something you will NEVER feel bad about -- well maybe when you pay for it, but AFTER that...
 
so im scraping the rotory platen, but i should probably keep the small wheel attachment with the 1/2", 1", 1.5" ,and 2" ww\heels right or do i really need them if i get a 2" and a 4" contact wheel thanks
 
thanks i will keep the small wheel attachment, how many tool bars do you think ill need.1 for the platen, 1 for the small wheel attchment 1 for the slack belt. how many bars fit on a tree? thanks
 
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