Knife #2 wip

Heat treat completed, knife cracked in 2 places, i will post some pics but quite depressing really. i thought it was rounded enough at the choil, apparently not, but in addition to the it cracked and warped along the spine????? pretty strange, oh well i guess i will make another!!!!!:jerkit:
 
Sorry to hear that! What steel is (was) the blade? How did you HT? Going to HT my first blade this weekend--would be very depressing if it did the same as yours.
 
kingjoey5000 said:
Heat treat completed, knife cracked in 2 places, i will post some pics but quite depressing really. i thought it was rounded enough at the choil, apparently not, but in addition to the it cracked and warped along the spine????? pretty strange, oh well i guess i will make another!!!!!:jerkit:
Click to expand...


Still reading up and trying to learn before I attempt a knife myself, but why would not rounding the choil enough cause the knife to crack? Pics would be great.
 
well its to my knowledge that cracks tend to show up most often in areas of abrupt sectional change. it was 1095 steel dipped into 10w 30 motor oil, the oil was not pre heated, this may have had something to do with it, but i can not figure out why on earth it cracked on the spine, all in all very dissapointing, to me i spent a good amount of time on it for it to crack this way
 
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the damage
 
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i cant tell you guys what a bummer this was. I am not surprised though as my luck has been really bad for about 4 months, oh well, i guess its time to make another.
 
man probably the same, may look into a different quenchant or just sending it out, and no i didnt put it into the quench bath sideways. if it hadnt cracked at the choil i woulda just pounded it out in the back and slapped a handle on it, but oh well. one positive thing that has come out of it is that i had to go to a muffler shop the other day and red had an oxy aceteline setup, he said for a small fee hed be more then happy to cut a patern out of my steel. i am wondering if i go this route, what will the heat affected zone be on the cut out, and what will it do to the properties on the edge of the pattern, any thoughts on this are welcome.
 
Still a newbie here, but I have heard oxyacetylene will require stress relief and re-annealing. Try finding someone with a plasma cutter, the metal should be fine afterwards. The guys at Des Moines Steel tell me that you can hold 1/8" stock while you cut it. Don't know if I believe them, but I have read that it is much easier on the metal than oxyacetylene. Plus, it's a freaking 30000 volt plasma stream, that's just cool! I'm taking about 15 blanks to them to have cut later today.
 
My advice for next time, for what it's worth, is to use a chainsaw file for the choil. If it needs to be larger, they come in different sizes. That choil looks about chainsaw file size. Also, get the flats good and flat.

What thickness of steel are you going to use next time? 1/8" or a hair thinner may work for that size knife. Also, if you use thinner stock, you can do a convex edge bevel. It will be easy to do, and easy to look near perfect.
 
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