Knife design and making - another newb here - with a plan :)

Joined
Oct 7, 2013
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11
Hello

For a year or so I searched for all possible knife making resources and thinking would it not be great if I could make a decent knife myself. I don't really need a new knife, because my pocket knife works fine in almost all ocasions. It is more about making something with my hands and maybe even be proud of it. So now I am finally in a stage when the plan is (approximately) set. I came up with a design that at least looks ok on paper. I'm sure you've probably seen something like that countless number of times because although I did not directly copy any design from the internet the design was heavily influenced from other knives:

s98q.jpg


Edit: picture should be working now. If not here is direct link: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/855/s98q.jpg/

I'm going to use 1.4034 steel which was recommended to someone else on our local mechanical engineering forum. I am quite fortunate that the owner of a company where I work owns a second company with a decent workshop which I can use and is within walking distance from my appartment. No belt grinder unfortunately, but plenty of other tools.

Some questions:
1. Will the design work for general outdoor use? Is the blade curved enough (or too much)?
2. Which steel thickness would you recommend I start with (4 or 5 mm)?
3. I'm clueless about handle shape so I went with my feeling alone here.

If possible please don't reply with The Count's Standard Reply to New Knifemakers V30 answer, because I read through almost all of it a while ago.

Thank you for any information.
 
Last edited:
What's your plan for heat treating?

I ask, because I don't think that is such a great steel to use for your purposes. It only has about 0.4% carbon plus a buttload of 14% chromium. This means you need a high temperature (1800° F) for hardening, which requires good temperature control and probably stainless foil.

Even after all of that, the hardness before tempering says to be 56 HRC, which is low. Very low.
 
I have access to max. 1100 °C furnace so that was the plan. The other choice was 1.4116. But it has similar properties now that you got me thinking.
 
Firstly, update your profile info with your location at the very least so that we can help you better.

I'll stay away from the metallurgy aspect because I'm not knowledgeable there, except to say that 1084 will be highly recommended and is also recommended by me.

The blade shape looks good for general use. The handle, though, could use some work. First, the scales shouldn't be straight across like that at the blade end of the handle, they should at least have a smooth curve to them. Second, the middle portion of the handle, the belly, should have the apex brought more towards the blade and lessen the depth of the curve at the butt end. The butt might need to be more rounded, smooth the final curve of the finger portion of the handle into the butt so there isn't an abrupt corner. Do the same for the other side of the butt as well.

I can mock it up, overlaying your original picture, if that will help you understand what I'm saying better.

These are just my opinions though, from a visual aspect.
 
PK4EX = AISI 420 if my minute of google-fu was accurate. I'd look for a non-stainless and higher carbon steel were it me. Especially if I plan to heat treat it myself.
 
Hello

For a year or so I searched for all possible knife making resources and thinking would it not be great if I could make a decent knife myself. I don't really need a new knife, because my pocket knife works fine in almost all ocasions. It is more about making something with my hands and maybe even be proud of it. So now I am finally in a stage when the plan is (approximately) set. I came up with a design that at least looks ok on paper. I'm sure you've probably seen something like that countless number of times because although I did not directly copy any design from the internet the design was heavily influenced from other knives:

s98q.jpg


Edit: picture should be working now. If not here is direct link: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/855/s98q.jpg/

I'm going to use 1.4034 steel which was recommended to someone else on our local mechanical engineering forum. I am quite fortunate that the owner of a company where I work owns a second company with a decent workshop which I can use and is within walking distance from my appartment. No belt grinder unfortunately, but plenty of other tools.

Some questions:
1. Will the design work for general outdoor use? Is the blade curved enough (or too much)?
2. Which steel thickness would you recommend I start with (4 or 5 mm)?
3. I'm clueless about handle shape so I went with my feeling alone here.

If possible please don't reply with The Count's Standard Reply to New Knifemakers V30 answer, because I read through almost all of it a while ago.

Thank you for any information.

Good for you on reading and coming with a plan.


Looks like a good design

On a 5.5" blade

4mm = .160"
5mm = .200"

I think thinner is better.
 
If you want a top steel have a look around for Niolox (also named: SB1)
She´s hard and tough to work with but takes a tough and fine edge.
Also RWL34 (154CM) isn´t hard to find in Europe. I made my first knife out of RWL34 with hand tools only. Good steel as well.
You can outsource the HT but there´s also a lot of info on doing it yourself.

I sugest you make a cardboard version of your knife first and have a feel.
Make the handle app. as thick as you plan the original to be. It will feel different.
 
I updated the design based on Broomhead's suggestions. I hope I understood them correctly :). When I have a model of this design ready I'll post my observations here with possible design changes.

9hjz.jpg


http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/4382/9hjz.jpg

:applause::thumbup: I'm glad I was clear enough in my description. To me, it looks more user friendly and visually appealing. But again, just my opinion.

I agree with Hengelo on the making a mockup of your design prior to cutting the steel. Whether you use cardboard, wood, or what have you, just try to make it as close to the real knife as you can. You will easily be able to tell where changes need to me made.
 
Man! I wish I had the technology to make an invisible knife. Lol pictures are white for me.
 
Man! I wish I had the technology to make an invisible knife. Lol pictures are white for me.

I was unable to view them on my phone, but they work on my desktop.

Just to alleviate the suspense for you, you would be looking at a medium-large full tang drop point hunter, slightly wide/straight blade, bellied handle, and scales held on with three evenly spaced pins.

It was driving me nuts when I couldn't see it, so I figured I'd help ya out :D
 
I was unable to view them on my phone, but they work on my desktop.

Just to alleviate the suspense for you, you would be looking at a medium-large full tang drop point hunter, slightly wide/straight blade, bellied handle, and scales held on with three evenly spaced pins.

It was driving me nuts when I couldn't see it, so I figured I'd help ya out :D

Thank you so much I almost could not handle it any more lol
 
I came across a 3 mm thick saw blade which would be perfect for practicing. Would it be enough for my planned knife size or should I shorten my knife by an inch or so?
 
PecenkA- doesn't Železara Ravne produce several UTOP steels, one of which is basically D2 tool steel (old standard designation is Č4850, IIRC)... I think it might not work exceptionally well on such large blade (isn't particularly tough), and IIRC has a complex heat treat... But I think it's available, and relatively inexpensive so worth considering (esp. since I think I saw on their webpage they might be selling scraps) and chances are you might find someone in the vicinity who will know how to heat treat it to your requirements, which I find is quite a bonus. HTH
 
Hello again. After a few months I finally got around to actually making the knife. I made a mock up and found out that the handle is too long so I shortened it and shaped it a bit differently. After some though I chose 1075 steel and today I got it. The problem is the steel bar is way too bent and twisted for stock removal method (7 cm distance from the middle point of 1m bar to the flat surface). Can I straighten the bar cold, because it will take me a while to get a torch to heat the bar and hammer it straight? It is in annealed state.
 
I would throw that back to whomever you bought it from, any reputable place will exchange that
 
And if you want to keep it, yes you should be able to bend it back in when its cold.

BTW, I really like your design. Hope that you dont minde it if I steal it?
 
Hello again. After a few months I finally got around to actually making the knife. I made a mock up and found out that the handle is too long so I shortened it and shaped it a bit differently. After some though I chose 1075 steel and today I got it. The problem is the steel bar is way too bent and twisted for stock removal method (7 cm distance from the middle point of 1m bar to the flat surface). Can I straighten the bar cold, because it will take me a while to get a torch to heat the bar and hammer it straight? It is in annealed state.

Should be easy to straighten if you cannot exchange it for a straight piece
 
And if you want to keep it, yes you should be able to bend it back in when its cold.
BTW, I really like your design. Hope that you dont minde it if I steal it?

Of course you can steal it :). And yes it was easy to straighten it. I should have tried that before asking.

Below you'll find a picture of mockup if someone finds it useful. Blade size is the same as in pictures above, I only changed the bevel and shortened the handle for 1 cm.
knife.jpg
 
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