Knife for whittling?

Many traditional slip joint knife users do not like the plastic/delrin scales on the Old Timers with excellent 1095 carbon steel blades. Here is an easy project to remove the plasic with a dremel tool cutter and expoxy replacement bone or wood in its place.
Photo by RGR on a older project he did for personal use.

I have some Old Timers that will have replacement wood scales as a priority winter project.


The BMP image would not transmit, sorry.

Regards,
FK
 
The Bad Guy
If you like the style of those corks,look for some books by Tom Wolfe. You could be turning out some stuff like that before too long.
He gives step by step instructions with tons of pictures. I just read through the book to get the general idea of things and then went to work on my own. Only book I have is called carving the wild west, or something like that, he has about 20 (with different themes) if I remember right.

Buzz
I like black cherry too. I haven't gotten to do anything but flat carving with it though. Have a few board feet left of a tree that my grandpa cut down and had sawn into lumber. Walnut is good stuff too.
I also like poplar. If you get the right peice it carves nice, and its cheap enough and readily available to use it for bigger woodworking projects like clocks and do some carving on them.
 
Wow, I really raised a lot of interest with my initial post about knives for whittling. I definitely want to try this for several reasons, not the least of which is so that, when people ask me why I have these knives, I have an answer!

2 points:

1) BF Whittlers Club - I think that this is a fantastic idea. Having a bunch of folks working on the same project, and helping each other, would be great. (We might need our own forum for this!) I suggest that we wait until after the holidays, in case we all get some goodies in our stockings. I am definitely going to add the book that Buzzbait mentioned to my Xmas list. (The Tangerman book was already on it!) If we can't think of another project, a walking stick would be great. So far all I've done to mine is saw off the knots, strip off the bark, round the top and sand them. It would be very cool to carve figures into them.

2) A question for Buzzbait: you recommended several knives for whittling. But for those of us who would go out and buy a new knife for whittling, what is the one knife that you would recommend the most just for whittling? And a follow-up: can one whittle with a full-size stockman, such as my Old Timer 80T? Thanks.

Buzz is my new hero.
 
I would be thrilled if a club would form. I'd probably stay out of the projects for some time, as I'm just getting started with this.

Regards,
Steve
 
Originally posted by
Steve Chism

I would be thrilled if a club would form. I'd probably stay out of the projects for some time, as I'm just getting started with this.

Regards,
Steve

Heck I never whittled anything more than a tent stake and I currently don't even own a suitable knife, (Ones on the way) But this would be fun, I am sure the first few we could make standard for beginers.:)
 
A whittler's club sounds like a great idea. It could be a lot of fun and a cool learning experience. I'm hardly a master whittler, so I can use all the help and guidance I can find. I’d never whittled much more than a hiking stick before this year.

Aeneas - That's a tough question, just because there are so many types of whittling. Whittling something like a bird out of a piece of wood is much different than a ball-in-cage. The bird requires more shaping, while the ball-in-cage is mostly tip work. I love Old Timers for shaping, just because the sheepsfoot blade is so big. For intricate tip work, a wharncliffe whittler is my favorite, although the spine of any sheepsfoot can be ground down a bit to make it pointier.

As far as knife size goes, the size of your hand is the biggest factor. My Roberson half-whittler is very small, and probably would be hard to hold in a very large hand. A whittling knife can be any size. You just adjust the size of the whittling project to the size of your knife. Where my small ball-in-cage was done with a small block of wood, the same project could be done on a larger scale with an Old Timer (80T) Senior. Comfort and safety are the most important factors in choosing a whittling knife. The only real reason for me using a Middleman over a Senior is that the Middleman fits in my jeans pocket better.

I got my Boker carbon steel stockman today, and I’m quite impressed. This’ll make a nice whittling knife. All of the springs are strong, and there is no lateral blade play in any of the blades. The Boker even came with decently sharp blades and good grind lines. That’s pretty uncommon in a slipjoint. I did touch up the edges a bit, and they took a nice razor edge. The bone isn’t as green in color as I’d expected, being more black than green, but the knife still looks darned pretty. I think I’m really going to enjoy using the Boker. It’s a nice medium between the Old Timer and the Robeson, with its smaller sheepsfoot. Excellent quality.
 
Thanks Chris those are pretty cool.Isnt it amazing how some can look at a piece of wood and see something in it and then create it........RB
 
Has anybody had any experience with Tagua nuts? They look like ivory when finished and are very hard.They look like they would be fun to carve on.I have been thinking of making handles for some of the wood carving tools we have.Then I thought even better Texasknife supply has a kit to make a set of carving knives and then I could use the tagua nuts to make the handles.Looks like I have another project to do because the mention of this to my wife got the thumbs up. http://www.users.bigpond.com/supremewood/Tagua_nuts.htm and here is a few carvings http://taguacraft.com/ click on links at top of page to see some carvings.They sell these nuts in two sizes and for around 3 to 4 bucks a nut so the internet would be the place to get them.I have seen them for a buck a piece. They would work for ivory inlay too. I will post pics when I get them and when I make the knives and handles.................RB
 
I would also be interested in a club or group to exchange ideas and techniques on whittling and carving.

Regards,
FK
 
Another try - Anyone have comments on the Spyderco Kiwi as a whittler?

I'd like to buy a good knife so I can enjoy getting started at it without feeling like I'm using poor tools. I could get a Schrade Old Timer Middleman for $20. But I'd like a Wharncliffe blade, and I don't want to sharpen the thing up and then decide I want to change knives. I'd rather put that $20 towards a better knife in the first place.

The Kiwi only has one blade, but it's a Wharncliffe. My concerns are (1) Whether it would be easy to hold for cutting towards me, (2) whether the VG-10 blade would be too hard to keep at a polished, razor edge, and (3) whether I would make use of the clip point blade and the pen blade on traditional whittler slipjoints, and would miss those on this single-bladed knife.

Kiwi Specs (photo below):
Blade Steel VG-10
Blade Thickness 1/16" 1.5mm
Handle Material Jigged Bone
Length Blade 2 1/2" 63mm
Length Closed 3 1/8"
Length Cutting Edge 1 13/16" 47m
Length Overall 5 1/2" 140mm
Weight 1.8oz 52g

Is this the one for me? Or should I stick with a tried-and-true slipjoint and look for one with carbon steel and a Wharncliffe?

Thanks!

Johnny

P.S. I'm going to be offline until Sunday afternoon, so if I don't respond to an answer please don't think I don't appreciate it.
 

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I'd have to handle one of the spyderco kiwis before I picked it as a carving/whittling knife. The blade sounds about right for general whittling and could probably do some pretty good detail work too, judging by the specs. Problem is the large choil, finger grooves in the handle seem like they limit you to a standard edge forward grip. You can do a lot using that grip, using the thumb on your free hand/hand thats holding the peice to steady and push on the back of the blade. Its also nice to cut towards yourself using a rocking motion with your wrist, which doesn't look to comfortable with that knife. The humps on the finger groove would be going right into your palm.
If you have the chance to handle it before you buy it, check one out, it might be nice.

I like have multiple blade sizes and shapes. Partly why I use dedicated carving tools as opposed to folding knives. A good stockmen is a very versatile whittler though. The big clip blade is good for roughing out and general shaping. The slim tip can also be used to get into tight areas if you "choke up" up on the handle. Then you've got the spey blade which is really good for detail work like stop cuts, and fine lines. You'll use the point on it a lot. And then the pen, spey, or saber blade depending on the knife can also do tight intricate work where the bigger blades are clumsy or won't fit into.
By using different blades for the different kind of work, you can spend more time carving and less time sharpening. If you do all the roughing work with one blade, its probably doing to be dull by the time you get to the details.

Hope that helps.
 
I have one of the Bulldog wharncliffs, and it's a great knife. Carbon steel blades and great walk and talk. I highly recommend it. Believe me, it's no Case knockoff; it far outshines any Case I've ever handled....
 
Over the past month I have ordered A Camillus Yellow Jacket Whittler, Queen whittler in D2, a Boker Tree Brand 280 and a Henkles (this is the same as the Boker 280)

The best of the bunch is the Henkles then the Camillus then the Queen. The Boker was acceptable but terrible compared to the Henkles (which is funny, because it is the same knife).

My advice on which to get, would be the Camillus. Don't bother with anything that costs more than $25. Unless you want something Camillus doesn't offer. If you want a quality slipjoint for whittling without worrying about quality control, then go with a Vic Sak secretary or a custom slipjoint.
As Buzz has said; it's hit or miss with slipjoints.
 
Hi Chris,

Can you elaborate on how you ranked the various folders you ordered? I'm curious because I ordered a Boker 280 whittler and it's coming tomorrow. Is there anything I should look for to determine whether it's worth keeping aside from the strength of its springs and no play in the blades? This is my first slipjoint aside from SAKs.

Thanks,

Johnny
 
Johnny, blade play is why I ranked the 280 last, it's sister (the Henkles) was nice and tight. As far as the springs are concerned it walks and talks just fine.
The 280 was the sharpest of the bunch out of the box, but it was also the hardest to sharpen (why, I have no idea. It should be the same as the Henkles.)

hope this helps a little.
 
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