Knife handle wood: help a nooby!

This came off my wood pile. Just a tip, if it's a pain in the butt to split, it may have nice figuring.

d782b6186e90c5aca8604b3dd6af89f0.jpg
 
This came off my wood pile. Just a tip, if it's a pain in the butt to split, it may have nice figuring.

d782b6186e90c5aca8604b3dd6af89f0.jpg

Sweet! Any other pointers? I have a big pile to look through so any direction would be great. Do I need to dry or treat the wood in any particular way?
 
I kind of lucked out in that I cut down this tree 5 years prior to my start of knife making. It was plenty dry. Look for pieces from the crotch areas. They tend to have interesting figure. Rule of thumb 1 year aging per inch of thickness. Paint the ends with oil based paint to keep the checking at bay, store it in a cool dry place and wait. 😁
 
I kind of lucked out in that I cut down this tree 5 years prior to my start of knife making. It was plenty dry. Look for pieces from the crotch areas. They tend to have interesting figure. Rule of thumb 1 year aging per inch of thickness. Paint the ends with oil based paint to keep the checking at bay, store it in a cool dry place and wait. 😁

I was reading David Boyd's knife making book, and he recommended a cabinet with a small heat lamp down at the bottom. Anyone have experience with that sort of thing?
 
The key to drying wood is not over drying you should get a moisture meter to monitor your process. Dry wood has 12-15% of the moisture removed before its considered dry. This process is done over a span of time to keep the wood from checking and splitting. It could take months of slow curing to get best results for freshly cut wood.
 
The key to drying wood is not over drying you should get a moisture meter to monitor your process. Dry wood has 12-15% of the moisture removed before its considered dry. This process is done over a span of time to keep the wood from checking and splitting. It could take months of slow curing to get best results for freshly cut wood.

Ok, awesome. So heat sources are probably not the best then. And do you mean one of those steel probe sort of moisture meters?
 
There is a pin type moisture meter that's reasonable and accurate enough for knife handle needs think I paid about $30 and its reliable so far. Has 2 probes and looks like a hand held tazer.
 
Jim, Timberline woodworking in Orem has hardwood by the board. I saw a really nice piece of spalted maple once, but it was gone when I went back. I did buy a walnut board last time I was there. It gave one nice set of scales, and three or four fair sets. But like Ben says, 80% of the board went to waste.

Ben In Cedar City
 
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