Knife lube?

Olive oil does very well if it’s not to thick. It’s Food safe and has good protective coating.
 
If you can believe what you read. Over time the olive oil will turn rancid. It’s fine to use if the item is in consistent use. Being washed and re oiled on a regular basis.

To be safe I use Howard’s cutting board oil. It is food grade mineral oil. I’ve had the same bottle for years now.
 
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I agree. AFAIK the laxative mineral oil is fine for cutting boards butcher blocks salad bowls and wooden spoons.

The butcher block oil is the same stuff either with parafin in it or vitamin E. I have the clear one enriched with vitamin E.

I use it on the wood knife handles. Steel blades and pivots. Apply it let it soak in. Then wipe off the excess.
 
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Thanks guys. I have one knife I use on food and BuckShack mentioned the mineral oil earlier in the thread so I wanted to give it a shot. I just wasn't sure cause I herd alot of mention of "food grade", I was just making sure I was getting the right stuff.
 
jmh33 said:
Quick Release..
John
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Same here. I've used a lot of different lubricants trying to find the best one. I really didn't have any problems with any of them but Quick Release is the one I stuck with.

I like it best for two reasons:
1. It seems to attract less lint than anything else I've used.
2. With other lubricants I usually have to wipe the excess lube off several times over the course of two or three days because it keeps gradually seeping out. With Quick Release I only need to wipe the excess off immediately after lubricating and then once again after a few hours. No more seepage after that.

I've always been of the opinion that just about anything slippery will work but I've decided to stick with Quick Release for those two reasons. It's not a miracle lube or anything like that but I'm more than content with it.
 
I use Z-MAX it is used on car engines and actually seeps into the steel. It is a very thin oil and 1 drop on both sides with a needle oiler. I fill up the needle oiler and use the rest on my car.
 
More on mineral oil:
I had a friend who was a knifemaker. He recommended mineral oil on stuff that cracks: stag, sheep horn, bone bolsters, ivory, etc. When I have something out, I try to remember to do that - once a year would be ideal, but rarely happens. Also, I've found it does a good job on making G10 look better, particularly orange handles, and so forth. I've put it on wood, too. And yes, my mineral oil has all come from the pharmacy. Probably used for 15 years or more to protect my better knives. Only occasionally for lubrication though. --Larry
 
Always used 3 in 1 all my life.Then I heard about mineral oil on this forum a few years ago.Now I use mineral oil to lube just about everything.It's odorless and good for dry skin.
 
I have been using mineral oil on my knives for a while now with good performance but about a month ago I came across a container of paintball grease that is used to lube the internal workings of a paintball gun like the bolt and the pressure regulator so in my search for the perfect pivot lube I decided to give it a try. I took my 3 work knives I rotate between and applied a couple of tiny dabs to the pivot washers and pivot bolt and used them for a couple of weeks and I have to say I was blown away by its performance. Unlike mineral oil it never seemed to thin out or wear off nor did it attract or gather dirt like oil and the action of my knives remained constantly smooth, really smooth. I also noticed when I left my knives in my pants pocket and ran it through a wash and a dry cycle (a new bad habit :oops:) the green grease stayed put and didn't wash off and the knives actions were as good as ever even with 2 of the knives going through 2 cycles of wash And dry. So far I have tested it on PB and Nylon washers with amazing success so I'm going to try it out next on my Kershaw Natrix to see how it performs on bearings. It is called Hater Sauce and it cost about $12 bucks online and a container of it would last a lifetime plus it's well worth a try if you like to maintain or tinker with your knives. This is a link showing the grease but it doesn't explain what it's made of so i'm still searching for that info. .......
 
eveled said:
If you can believe what you read. Over time the olive oil will turn rancid. It’s fine to use if the item is in consistent use. Being washed and re oiled on a regular basis.

To be safe I use Howard’s cutting board oil. It is food grade mineral oil. I’ve had the same bottle for years now.
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I've used olive oil exclusively for decades. Never gone rancid. It just isn't a problem. Ever.

Zieg
 
I tried a few different lubes but found CLP break free to be the best, I use the same on my guns so it's easy..... Hoppes isn't bad but smells a little, Safariland CLP breakfree has little no scent, at least to me it doesn't.
 
Mo2 said:
Can you describe to me the difference between rancid and not rancid olive oil?
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I can only say that at no time has any knife I've oiled with olive oil smelled bad or become gummy. The amount of oil I apply is about two or three drops from the tip of a bamboo skewer applied to the pivot area.

I've never had any negative results from using olive oil. Not that there aren't better oils out there that last longer and don't break down as quickly, but that's a different issue.

I ride this hobby horse about once a year, touting the safety of olive oil. Someone will inevitably come along and tell their story of olive oil going rancid in their pocketknife or, more commonly, in the knife of someone they know. I just dont believe it.

Zieg
 
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