Again, that knife was an example. I chuckled at the 'Night stalkers don't quit' bit. It was more to show the blade style. All I know about that knife is the tip is not a tanto-style. It's.... drop-point? I'm still learning the terminology. And that the grip is made of something more modern than leather(no offense to you KABAR owners, I know they're lovely knives). I could do without the ergonomic grip too.
Clip point. It's a very popular profile, but also comes in a pretty wide variety. The one you linked looks to be mostly ripped from Bill Bagwell's design. He is generally considered to be the authority on making a fighting bowie. The problem with a fighting bowie is that it is balanced for fighting, and not for chopping. So that is not a camp design. You will want an ergonomic grip.
So from what I've gathered so far, full-tang is by far the most durable knife design. Feel free to pull out a quote and correct me if I'm wrong, I'm here to learn! But full-tang is a single piece of metal all the way from tip to buttplate, right? And then a half tang would be like a blade attached somehow to a grip?
full tang is the strongest tang, but that doesn't have anything to do with the blade. A full tang isn't much good if there are other stress risers, and most knives break at the blade when abused, not at the handle. But there are a lot of full tang knives, you will have no problem finding one that suits you.
What is the best blade material? Ideally something that doesn't rust but I feel like that's reaching for the stars.
it is generally accepted that there is no single best blade material, it depends on your needs, your budget, your environment, your use, and your proficiency. I would suggest a stainless for a couple of reasons. One, you aren't well versed in knife handling or care. Two, neither is anyone else in your pending group. Three, a tough and easy to sharpen stainless is 12C27/12C27M, and it also happens to be the steel used in Moras. There's a reason you will see them mentioned a lot.
How would I make sure it has been epoxy-attached?
Removable scales are usually advertised as a benefit. It isn't necessarily a bad thing that the scales aren't epoxied on, I'm just trying to take into account your relative inexperience and what issues you might face. A note here, whatever knife you get, don't put it in the dishwasher when you get back from your trip.
I find it hard to believe there's no crossover between a fighting knife and utility knife. My Marine buddies swear up and down that their KABAR's are all the knife they'll ever need, and I have personally seen them ripping open cans, throwing them into trees(all the normal things bored Marines do I suppose), and their knives look just fine. A little scraped up, but still sharp and completely useable. And at the end of the day, they're all able to school me in knife fighting(albeit with a KABAR rubber copy) with that same knife.
There are plenty of crossovers in 'combat' knives. But it is just that a 'fighting' knife is not to often recommended. Fighting is different from self defense as far as defining knives goes, and neither has to have a whole lot with general utility. A knife fight is two or more guys fighting with knives. You wouldn't call it a knife fight if one guy had a pair of brass knuckles, or a pistol. So fighting knives are designed with cutting vs defending against cuts, reach advantages in blade length, getting past a defending blade, that kind of thing. That;s why you don't see quillions on choppers.
Let's just assume for the moment that I will be fighting as well as working with this theoretical knife we have yet to settle on. I did say worst-case up there somewhere right? Should I be looking at two different knives? From what my buddies have told me, intimidation is half the battle in a knife fight, which is the reason I chose a longer knife for the example. And based on how I keep losing our practice fights(mostly because those guys are pretty freakin' terrifying even with a rubber knife), I'm inclined to believe them.
yeah, length is good if you're fighting. It isn't as good if you're removing a splinter from your finger or whittling a spoon.
Well Jonathan, I'm still hoping to find a balance between tacticool(still, loving that term) and functional. And the reason I want the serrations(which the aforementioned Marines have already assured me is "one ornery sunuvvabitch to sharpen") is because I may have to be cutting through wood or rope at some point, and that seems easier than sliding a smooth edge up and down.
Serrations aren't so good for wood, they aren't saw teeth. See if your leatherman has a saw. Or, learn to baton, cut wedges to baton with, pick up smaller wood, pick up dried wood that can be broken without needing to be sawn or chopped, or get something that can chop. Serrations aren't bad for rope.
Especially considering on this next camping trip, I will be the only one even remotely qualified to be building shelter(not tents, a communal one) out of tarps and rope. I'm also the only one bringing a knife, hatchet, or anything more useful than a tent. Many of my friends have never even set foot outside a paved and bathroomed campsite. I'm of course talking about different friends than my Marines. They've all seen action and I'm sure in any sort of survival scenario they could keep me alive, but alas, they are busy.
That, and last time I took a bunch of hipsters out camping, I was the one building the site anyways while they all played in the lake. So for my purposes, assume I'm all alone and I need a knife that can do anything and everything. Including but not limited to cutting rope, prepping food, fighting off a particularly aggressive grizzly bear, etc.
A bunch of inexperienced and unequipped people head into the woods to party. Sounds like the premise to a slasher flick, lol. I'd really ask them to pack something, in case stuff is lost or broken. Share the load and the responsibility.
