Knife patterns

G

golfer1

Joined
Nov 24, 2016
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I wondered about using plexiglass for my knife patterns. What do you guys use for your knife patterns?
 
I've tried plexiglass, but I find it a little troublesome to profile. It doesn't do heat very well and curls up very easy.

I like to use adhesive sticker paper on which I print my pattern and then put on the steel. I've found that it survives profiling perfect, and I make sure the patterns have hole locations printed on it so I can punch them easily.
 
Plexiglass or anything other than hardenedsteels will have issues with your spot hole enlargining. Tracking it with a carbide scribe will also slowly change the profiles.

So if you plan on using the same templates over and over again use a steel and harden it.
 
I have a stack of .06'' thick material that resembles bakelite but is a bit different. I cut both knife and leather patterns from it.
 
I've used anything from mild steel, to old license plates, to g10 and other liner materials. As long as it's relatively rigid and stable, it should do the trick.

As for hole spotting, I'll normally undersize the hole on my template so that a scribe point or center punch will just fit. I'll then center punch and drill to the appropriate size on the steel.
 
Thin sheet steel for something permanent



Cereal box cardboard for playing with


Plexiglass and aluminum will melt as it grinds.
PITA
 
Formica works well for me for liner locks. It is easy to get the exact shape you want with it, and doesn't deform on the edge.
Frank
 
As for the holes in my steel templates, I drill and ream the holes and then use transfer punches to get perfect alignment.
 
I use thin 15n20, it's already heat treated to be tough but not so hard that you can't work or drill it.
 
DWG, 20LB paper and wood glue. :-/
 
I use the "Darwin" method. First time I make one, I use a paper template. Second or third time, I use a manila folder. If the design sticks around past that, I use luan.
 
I use paper ...cut out the template and trace onto steel....then take the steel blank and trace over anotehr copy of the design ..that along with direct measurements/ dimensions you can nail it every time
 
I use mild steel from the Depot. Trace around with a Sharpie. Cut to outside of the line with the badsaw, profile with the grinders to the inside of the line. Good to go.
 
Bass wood thins from the art supply store. Mostly 1/8". The problem is tear-out, so I have to be extra careful with the coping saw. On the upside, it is easy to refine the shape of them with 60 grit sandpaper, and seal them with Tru Oil.
 
Hey thank you folks for the feed back. So many good ideas. I'm kinda in the just starting boat so I'm thinking a temporary pattern of plexi or hard masonite and then steel if they work out well. Thanks so much for your help, best wishes to all.
 
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