Knife prices vs diminishing returns

My most expensive user was a $2200 custom Darrel Ralph... And it was a primary EDC.



I would say my $1000 for a fixed and $2000 for a folder.
 
The question could be asked in return, “diminishing returns on what aspect of a knife?” Let’s assume folders only for the sake of this post.

For sheer ability to cut well, SAK’s and Opinels and Byrds see diminishing returns before one hits $30.

For better edge holding, a few more dollars, but many good options under $100. Excellent locks, same thing.

Superior fit and finish can be had under $200 and rising to $600. Same for fancy handle materials and patterned Damascus blades. Above $600 you mostly get more and better bling, or provenance (e.g. famous makers or prior owners).
 
MMS375 said:
At what price point does practicality and functional use ability plateau for the "average user/enthusiast "
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For everyone answering $100 or higher, I challenge you to tell us: What's more practical/functional about your $100 knife than a Buck 110, Ontario RAT, or Kershaw Leek?

If you can't guess, my answer is whatever the current street price is for the above knives.

I ask this as someone who frequently buys knives way over $200, for reasons that have nothing to do with practicality or functionality.
 
Bill1170 said:
The question could be asked in return, “diminishing returns on what aspect of a knife?” Let’s assume folders only for the sake of this post.

For sheer ability to cut well, SAK’s and Opinels and Byrds see diminishing returns before one hits $30.

For better edge holding, a few more dollars, but many good options under $100. Excellent locks, same thing.

Superior fit and finish can be had under $200 and rising to $600. Same for fancy handle materials and patterned Damascus blades. Above $600 you mostly get more and better bling, or provenance (e.g. famous makers or prior owners).
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I think you're right about this. When I spend more than $150 on a knife, it is for more than just the steel or it's general cutting ability. In prior threads on this subject, I answered about $100 for the break point on substantially diminishing returns. I bumped it up a bit for this thread. But now I have second thoughts. Even with fixed blades, anything over $200 I have to really think about it and often it is just because I want it. I have always found it interesting that the pricing on Bark River fixed blades are almost always just a tad above what I think they should be or the diminishing return point. But I bend to get what I want.
 
Considering that some higher end companies will refurbish a knife, including a new blade, for a petty small fee, there is some practicality in spending $200-$500 for a knife. There is no practicality, however, in collecting such knives.:p

That is an obsession, hoarding, or collectIng, depending on how you see it.
 
I think for a knife as a cutting tool $50 is the limit, for $50 or less you can get the rat 1 or 2 in d2, each size of cutjack in d2, ruike and Kershaws with 14c28n among others.

I asked myself this question of diminishing returns a few days ago while playing with my s35vn pm2 and my rat 1 d2.What did I get for the extra $110 for the pm2 that the rat doesn't have? Well the pm2 is lighter, just as strong, has g10 with nested and milled liners and a lock that I prefer. But even with those features is the pm2 as a cutting tool worth $110 more? I don't think so.

My wife gave me that pm2 for Christmas and I love it. But she didn't buy it because I need a $150 knife, she bought it because she knew I wanted one and I enjoy knives.

As far as material used on knives you can get premium steel, CF, g10, and Ti for $250 or under. For now thats the most i would consider spending on a knife. So I would say even for knife nuts that's the limit of diminishing returns.
But if your someone who wants your knife scales made from 65 million year old T-rex teeth( which would be awesome) then more power to you.
 
As it has been said, value is in the eye of the individual. A 10 dollar watch tells time the same as a 1k Rolex, twice a day. (More often).
If someone was selling a $300 knife at an estate sale, the average buyer may give $10. Same ratio for a 1k knife.
Yes, the higher the original price the better the knife (maybe). But that is only for us knife nuts.....
For me $300.00 is my limit but if I'm doing work where I could loose my knife, $40.00 is my limit. I would love to own some customs or high value knifes but would I really use It? So, why own one?
My two cents.
Lateck,
 
After $250 (Folders) the diminishing returns begin. At 250 anybody who isn't ripping you off will either have Elmax, S30V, S35VN, or the M390 family, Carbon Fiber and Titanium, Ceramic Detent and Bearings, and a Frame Lock. After that you're either paying for quality or for the name.

Although some knives might have more complicated parts or are collaborations which increases pricing.
 
I’m not sure there’s a “right” answer. I have everything from a Sebenza, to Randall’s, Lile, and custom Bowie’s.

Other than the Sebenza, I don’t use any of them.

The SAK Soldier, a Dozier Model 6 And a Spyderco Endura do just about everything I ever need.

I bought the Sebenza slightly used. So, I guess my point of diminishing returns is about $250.
 
Depends on the context of use for the tool. Or rather context --> features --> cost. As a broad-spectrum statement I'd say that typically you hit that mark between $12-90 for most knives and knife-like tools, but there are exceptions depending on context, and even in the normal range, the specific context still impacts where on that typical spectrum a given optimal tool lands. Also, there's a lot of junk in those ranges, so price is just an artifact of paring away extraneous features that don't matter rather than price being an indicator of suitability.
 
22-rimfire said:
I think you're right about this. When I spend more than $150 on a knife, it is for more than just the steel or it's general cutting ability. In prior threads on this subject, I answered about $100 for the break point on substantially diminishing returns. I bumped it up a bit for this thread. But now I have second thoughts. Even with fixed blades, anything over $200 I have to really think about it and often it is just because I want it. I have always found it interesting that the pricing on Bark River fixed blades are almost always just a tad above what I think they should be or the diminishing return point. But I bend to get what I want.
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So funny that you described my internal struggle over my recent Bark River purchase to a tee. :thumbsup::)
 
$50 to $200 is my sweet spot for a functional knife. A Kershaw Leek or Delica will serve me well for every day uses. Beyond those, and up to the $200 range you get better materials but not necessarily a more functional knife.

Beyond $200, and I own CRK, Hinderer, Strider, and Medford, the tolerances are tighter, material thicker and perhaps a little more craftsmanship, but you don't get a knife that typically cuts any better than my Delicia.
 
skyhorse said:
So funny that you described my internal struggle over my recent Bark River purchase to a tee. :thumbsup::)
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They make such beautifully finished fixed blades with so many handle choices. It iis hard to resist if you're in the market. I generally do however. You can say what you want to about Stewart, but I think he really understands the market (his market).
 
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I'd say right around 150.00ish although my two current favorite EDC's come in at between 85.00-95.00.

Benchmade Bugout and Kizer T1.
 
vanadium said:
For everyone answering $100 or higher, I challenge you to tell us: What's more practical/functional about your $100 knife than a Buck 110, Ontario RAT, or Kershaw Leek?
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I'm far from a knife snob, but I can answer since I own most of the knives you listed. Example, for $75 my Carter Prime has titanium body, D2 steel, and is a smooth ball bearing flipper. Those are not found on a rat 1 or buck 110. Those added features are not cosmetic, but functional upgrades that are not yet diminishing returns IMO.

Saying that, you can get a smooth ball bearing flipper with decent steel and stainless steel body for around $35. My CRKT Jettison for example. So diminishing returns really has a lot to do with the features and materials you are looking to compare and desire.
 
panoz77 said:
....Saying that, you can get a smooth ball bearing flipper with decent steel and stainless steel body for around $35. My CRKT Jettison for example. So diminishing returns really has a lot to do with the features and materials you are looking to compare and desire.
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It does. But, what's a knife for? Cutting, right? Once you get past the most inexpensive knives and the steel they use, you are bumping up onto the diminishing returns argument in terms of what a knife is supposed to do... cut and hold an edge reasonably well. Does it really matter that one knife blade "deploys" quicker or more smoothly when ultimately the purpose is for the blade to be deployed ready for use?

The world would be kind of boring if the only knives people used were Mora's and Vic SAKs.
 
Yes, in many cases it does matter how easily, fast and reliably a knife can be deployed and whether or not it requires one or two hands to do it. Also, materials do matter in some cases, for example, where a person wants light, strong, non magnetic, non conductive or non corrosive materials.
 
panoz77 said:
Yes, in many cases it does matter how easily, fast and reliably a knife can be deployed and whether or not it requires one or two hands to do it. Also, materials do matter in some cases, for example, where a person wants light, strong, non magnetic, non conductive or non corrosive materials.
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It does to me as well. But when you shift to the most basic argument about value versus cutting for a knife, these things may not really matter so much. The argument for stainless steel versus carbon steel is sort of obvious, but what true need pushes a regular person who is not a knife knut to buy something with 20V or M390 steel?
 
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