Recommendation? Knife Sharpener for a beginner

[AlexSav]

I recommend Edge-Pro. It's money very well spent.

There are cheaper ways to go, the the EP will just about do it all.

Yea I've heard it was good the problem is it worth paying thatuch for a beginner than rather I get a cheap system that I can get decent at and then upgrade later

 

[AlexSav]

I find freehand sharpening to be more versatile. A set of diamond hones and a simple angle guide are all you really need to sharpen any knife.

Yea I was thinking of doing freehand but I feel like it will be really hard to learn, plus not sure at all of what stones to get and what things

 

[AlexSav]

I 100% agree. The Lanksy is cheap and limited and not worth the time or money. If you want to do it right, and use a system, spend the money up front and get a high quality system with heaps of versatility that you will be able to sharpen many different knives on (pocket, kitchen, etc.) for the rest of your days.

I've had a KME for years and it is an excellent system. Check out the R.P.S.H. kit. Great place to start. But as Craig said, there are other quality systems out there too and they all have pros and cons. For me, all things considered, the KME wins out but you should do the research to make an educated decision.

What about the edge pro kit specifically the Apex 3 kit for 225 is it worth the cost they do provide lifetime warranty and as well as I've heard amazing reviews saying it's worthe very penny but is it worth for a beginner to invest that much up front?

 

[Eli Chaps]

I have no first hand experience with it but yes, many people love it. For me personally, I don't like the propensity of the Edge Pro to jump around if not secured. But many find that to be a non-issue.

As said, they all have compromises and you have to decide what is right for you.

The KME without the base seems unorthodox but it is actually pretty natural and easy to use. But you can get a base for around $25.

 

[Mikel_24]

Thanks for the post I checked it out, it's interesting seems cheap and things but I'm worried about the quality is it any good I mean there are tons of Chinese ones but which ones are actually good out of all of them?

I understand your concerns about it being cheap, but there is nothing cheap about its construction. It is quite heavy, thanks to the cast steel clamp that holds the sharpener to the table. It is not stamped/bent sheet metal, it is cast steel. The thread could have been ACME, but other than that, there is nothing flimsy about it. One of the advantages of this system is that you can modify the angle to perfectly match whichever is already in your knife, instead of being stuck with the fixed angle slots on some other systems which basically force you to reprofile the very first time you use it (and then make damn sure you clamp your blade in the exact position, because if you clamp it closer or further from the edge, the angle changes again.

A friend of mine and me bought our sharpeners at the very same time, we both are quite happy with them. No complaints at all.

The plain jain unit comes already with some wet stones wich are perfectly useful by themselves. I also bought a pack of diamond stones (6 pieces) from 80 grit to 2000. I currently only use the diamond up to 400-600 or so. They are not wearing noticeably (granted is not going to be DMT quality) but so far, so good. I don't go any further because I like toothy edges.

Mikel

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Yea I was thinking of doing freehand but I feel like it will be really hard to learn, plus not sure at all of what stones to get and what things

I have a full Edge Pro kit. I also freehand sharpen. In my opinion which is better can be answered by two simple questions:

1. Are aesthetics like perfectly even bevels important? Are you afraid to scratch the faces of your knives?
2. Do you want edges to perform "tricks" like whittling hairs? (Or is real-world working performance more important?)

If you answer "no" to these questions go freehand. Thinning a blade freehand leads to better real-world performance, and a working edge is not really that hard to apply, especially to an already thinned edge.

If you answer "yes" to both get a guided system like the Edge Pro. Although you often need to tape a blade to avoid scratching it you can make beautiful even bevels, mirror polished if desired. It is also far easier for me to make a hair whittling edge on the Edge Pro.

If you answer "yes" to only one question you need to decide if you want to spend the time to master that aspect freehand, or assist yourself with a guided system possibly combined with freehand for thinning, Scandi grinds, etc.

 

[Blues]

I agree with Mr. Wizard that it's good to have both options. I freehand sharpen more than 90% of the time. Then there are those times when a device like the Edge Pro comes in handy for any of various reasons.

Probably my most often used quick and dirty routine is freehand followed by a few swipes on the brown stones of a Sharpmaker to remove any remaining burr and ensure that the apex is clean and even (via a small microbevel).

Everyone has their own favorite way of doing things. There are many roads to Dublin.

 

[AlexSav]

Il

I have no first hand experience with it but yes, many people love it. For me personally, I don't like the propensity of the Edge Pro to jump around if not secured. But many find that to be a non-issue.

As said, they all have compromises and you have to decide what is right for you.

The KME without the base seems unorthodox but it is actually pretty natural and easy to use. But you can get a base for around $25.

I'll check out kme kit versus the edge pro and look at the similarities and what's different

 

[AlexSav]

I rea

I have a full Edge Pro kit. I also freehand sharpen. In my opinion which is better can be answered by two simple questions:

1. Are aesthetics like perfectly even bevels important? Are you afraid to scratch the faces of your knives?
2. Do you want edges to perform "tricks" like whittling hairs? (Or is real-world working performance more important?)

If you answer "no" to these questions go freehand. Thinning a blade freehand leads to better real-world performance, and a working edge is not really that hard to apply, especially to an already thinned edge.

If you answer "yes" to both get a guided system like the Edge Pro. Although you often need to tape a blade to avoid scratching it you can make beautiful even bevels, mirror polished if desired. It is also far easier for me to make a hair whittling edge on the Edge Pro.

If you answer "yes" to only one question you need to decide if you want to spend the time to master that aspect freehand, or assist yourself with a guided system possibly combined with freehand for thinning, Scandi grinds, etc.

I really like the way you described would I want to freehand or not this got me thinking, I'm

I have a full Edge Pro kit. I also freehand sharpen. In my opinion which is better can be answered by two simple questions:

1. Are aesthetics like perfectly even bevels important? Are you afraid to scratch the faces of your knives?
2. Do you want edges to perform "tricks" like whittling hairs? (Or is real-world working performance more important?)

If you answer "no" to these questions go freehand. Thinning a blade freehand leads to better real-world performance, and a working edge is not really that hard to apply, especially to an already thinned edge.

If you answer "yes" to both get a guided system like the Edge Pro. Although you often need to tape a blade to avoid scratching it you can make beautiful even bevels, mirror polished if desired. It is also far easier for me to make a hair whittling edge on the Edge Pro.

If you answer "yes" to only one question you need to decide if you want to spend the time to master that aspect freehand, or assist yourself with a guided system possibly combined with freehand for thinning, Scandi grinds, etc.

I really like how you put it simply, I want to look into freehand now as well, can you recommend like a whole set of stone so I have everything I need to sharpen and possibly reprofile a blade as well. I would like to spend not too much preferably under 150

 

[AlexSav]

Do

I agree with Mr. Wizard that it's good to have both options. I freehand sharpen more than 90% of the time. Then there are those times when a device like the Edge Pro comes in handy for any of various reasons.

Probably my most often used quick and dirty routine is freehand followed by a few swipes on the brown stones of a Sharpmaker to remove any remaining burr and ensure that the apex is clean and even (via a small microbevel).

Everyone has their own favorite way of doing things. There are many roads to Dublin.

Hello thanks for replying do you have a good set of freehand stones that can get it all done like from reprofiling to maintaining an edge if I where to get started freehand what a good set of them to have pretty much, also preferably under 150 thanks

 

[Eli Chaps]

I rea

I really like the way you described would I want to freehand or not this got me thinking, I'm

I really like how you put it simply, I want to look into freehand now as well, can you recommend like a whole set of stone so I have everything I need to sharpen and possibly reprofile a blade as well. I would like to spend not too much preferably under 150

If you're open to free hand, then my recommendation would be a Baryonyx Manticor or Norton JB8 for reprofiling and UltraSharp 300/1200 diamond combination stone.

 

[AlexSav]

If you're open to free hand, then my recommendation would be a Baryonyx Manticor or Norton JB8 for reprofiling and UltraSharp 300/1200 diamond combination stone.

So I was looking around would something like a 3 piece stone set 300grit,600,1200 also I'm worried about holding a consistent angle while sharping, is YouTube the go to or whats the best option.
Thanks for your help so far

 

[sharp_edge]

Sharpmaker should be called Sharpkeeper. I know many people use it to sharpen dull knives but to me, it just requires too much time and patience especially if you are dealing with knives of hard steels.

Lansky is cheap but works well. The stones of the base model will worn out quickly if you use it to sharpen hard steels. Adding a couple of diamond stones shall work.

If you are seriously into knives and have a lot (like 30+) knives, I agree it's a better idea to invest something with higher quality.

 

[AlexSav]

Yea I on

Sharpmaker should be called Sharpkeeper. I know many people use it to sharpen dull knives but to me, it just requires too much time and patience especially if you are dealing with knives of hard steels.

Lansky is cheap but works well. The stones of the base model will worn out quickly if you use it to sharpen hard steels. Adding a couple of diamond stones shall work.

If you are seriously into knives and have a lot (like 30+) knives, I agree it's a better idea to invest something with higher quality.

Yea I only have a couple of knives, I was planning on getting more for sure I was just seeing if for me it's probably worth more to get a lower end or maybe try freehand I'm just scared it's gonna really hard. Is it better to get lansky or maybe try go freehand?

 

[Blues]

Do

Hello thanks for replying do you have a good set of freehand stones that can get it all done like from reprofiling to maintaining an edge if I where to get started freehand what a good set of them to have pretty much, also preferably under 150 thanks

I have too many stones of various sorts...so let's go a slightly different route.

Based on the recommendations of a couple of highly esteemed members here, @HeavyHanded and @David Martin, I'd recommend the following combination. You can move on from there as you progress if need be:

Norton IB8 Double Sided Stone: 100 / 320 grits, $22 online

Ultra Sharp Diamond Double Sided Plate: 400 / 1000 grits, $53 online

Optional:

Powertec Stone Holder, $15 online


That's $90 plus tax on amazon, all in.

(I can't provide the links or I would be breaking the rules I'm supposed to enforce here. Prices may be equal or better elsewhere, but they seem reasonable to me.)

If you need something finer, you can go with a finer diamond option or ceramic with the remaining balance of your funds. Just depends on what your desired finish is.

 

[sharp_edge]

......................................................................................................

Yea I on

Yea I only have a couple of knives, I was planning on getting more for sure I was just seeing if for me it's probably worth more to get a lower end or maybe try freehand I'm just scared it's gonna really hard. Is it better to get lansky or maybe try go freehand?

Freehand requires more skills of sharpening than a guided system. But once you learn how to freehand sharpen, it will be the fastest that can get your knives crazy sharp. If you are into crispy even edges, a guided system is the way to go. I cannot imagine myself dropping $200+ on a sharpening system for only couple of knives but again, if you plan to get more down the road, buying a high quality guided system like Edge Pro Apex is certainly not a bad idea.

 

[AlexSav]

I have too many stones of various sorts...so let's go a slightly different route.

Based on the recommendations of a couple of highly esteemed members here, @HeavyHanded and @David Martin, I'd recommend the following combination. You can move on from there as you progress if need be:

Norton IB8 Double Sided Stone: 100 / 320 grits, $22 online

Ultra Sharp Diamond Double Sided Plate: 400 / 1000 grits, $53 online

Optional:

Powertec Stone Holder, $15 online


That's $90 plus tax on amazon, all in.

(I can't provide the links or I would be breaking the rules I'm supposed to enforce here. Prices may be equal or better elsewhere, but they seem reasonable to me.)

If you need something finer, you can go with a finer diamond option or ceramic with the remaining balance of your funds. Just depends on what your desired finish is.

Found the ultrasharp with holder 400/1000 grit for 52 will probably snag that possibly I'll my edges don't need reprofiling I think so I'm gonna hold off on that, and for learning is YouTube the way to go or cheap knives and trail and error?
Thanks for you help so far you've been great

 

[AlexSav]

......................................................................................................


Freehand requires more skills of sharpening than a guided system. But once you learn how to freehand sharpen, it will be the fastest that can get your knives crazy sharp. If you are into crispy even edges, a guided system is the way to go. I cannot imagine myself dropping $200+ on a sharpening system for only couple of knives but again, if you plan to get more down the road, buying a high quality guided system like Edge Pro Apex is certainly not a bad idea.

Yea that's what I was thinking seemed a bit too much for me I was only thinking of paying that much for extremely quality and speed improvements honestly hoping for under 100 to maybe 120 max, I think I'm gonna go try freehand and grab a worksharp stone someone recommend here 400/1000 grit don't really need reprofiling so it should do wish me luck

 

[Blues]

Found the ultrasharp with holder 400/1000 grit for 52 will probably snag that possibly I'll my edges don't need reprofiling I think so I'm gonna hold off on that, and for learning is YouTube the way to go or cheap knives and trail and error?
Thanks for you help so far you've been great

youtube is a great learning resource...plus check some of the threads in the "sticky" section at the top of this forum page. Some have embedded videos in them, such as B Gentry's "7 secrets of sharpening".

You should be fine with the ultra sharp stone, but the Norton stone will make future reprofiling of very dull knives easier.

Start learning with inexpensive kitchen knives if you have some at home. Paring knives are excellent for that purpose and can be bought for just a few bucks...and cheaper at flea markets and such. They will make the learning process easier and less painful.

Another thought is that you can buy or make a cheap set of angle guides so you know what a 15 or 20 degree angle looks like when you put the blades to your hones.

It's not rocket science. A little bit of effort will be greatly rewarded.

Check out some of this guy's videos to learn basic techniques. Especially some of his older videos where he goes slowly back and forth, one stroke at a time. They will help you understand the process and you'll see that he gets better himself as time goes on:

https://www.youtube.com/user/stefanwolf88/videos

 

[AlexSav]

youtube is a great learning resource...plus check some of the threads in the "sticky" section at the top of this forum page. Some have embedded videos in them, such as B Gentry's "7 secrets of sharpening".

You should be fine with the ultra sharp stone, but the Norton stone will make future reprofiling of very dull knives easier.

Start learning with inexpensive kitchen knives if you have some at home. Paring knives are excellent for that purpose and can be bought for just a few bucks...and cheaper at flea markets and such. They will make the learning process easier and less painful.

Another thought is that you can buy or make a cheap set of angle guides so you know what a 15 or 20 degree angle looks like when you put the blades to your hones.

It's not rocket science. A little bit of effort will be greatly rewarded.

Allright thanks a lot I think I'm gonna give freehand a try cuase it seems affordable and also want the satisfaction plus I saw some guides on eBay from 10 degrees to 39 set will probably get those an then in a few months ditch them hopefully. And again thanks a lot I think I will be happy with this have a great day and stay safe