Recommendation? Knife Sharpener for a beginner

I got to go agains the grain here and suggest you have a look into the latest RUIXIN model. It is called RUIXIN PRO RX-008. Have a look at it in YouTube. It is a guided system that allows for infinite adjustment of the angle (does not have fixed slots like other guided systems). It is robust, cheap, many grits available (wetstone and diamond). The benefit of this system over others I have seen is that you clamp the device to the table so it is rigid and solid, then you can flip the knife without unclamping it, so the angle stays the same as you do either side and progress through the different grits.

You can source from China no problem, the price is going to surprise you, I promise.

I also own a sharpmaker and while it is ok for maintaining edges and quick touch ups, any reprofiling or heavy sharpening (think ruined edge) takes foreeeeeeeeeeeeever. Since I bought the RUIXIN I only use the Sharpmaker for quick touch ups and serrated edges, but I no longer sharpen straight edges on it.

Mikel

That Ruixin is so inexpensive that I ordered one myself even though I plan on buying a Wicked Edge as soon as I can. Thanks, Mikel.
 
Blues Blues has steered you right.

A Sharpie to mark the edge bevel is a huge help. It lets you see what is going on with your strokes. Just understand that when going from a factory grind to your own, there are nearly always small spots where marker is persistent. That's just profiling in your edge if you will.
 
Yea I was thinking of doing freehand but I feel like it will be really hard to learn, plus not sure at all of what stones to get and what things

Freehand is fine if all you need to do is sharpen a blade. But it can take forever it seems if you need to reprofile a blade or grind out some chips or something. I am disabled and getting old so I need to try to make it easier on myself. And I decided to just buy a Wicked Edge and get it over with.
I bought the Ruixin in case I decide to make some knifes or to do the rough part of reprofiling blades to keep from wearing out my WE stones so fast. Anyway, that is the plan...
 
000Robert 000Robert , you hardly sound disabled if you can make knives. Don't sell yourself short.

One of my best friends and favorite knife makers, Ken Erickson, has been in a wheelchair for most of his adult life. He is the least disabled person I know. In fact, he's a role model.
 
000Robert 000Robert , you hardly sound disabled if you can make knives. Don't sell yourself short.

One of my best friends and favorite knife makers, Ken Erickson, has been in a wheelchair for most of his adult life. He is the least disabled person I know. In fact, he's a role model.

LOL! I didn't mean make, make. I can't forge my own steel and stuff even though that was my plan when I reached this age and retired. I always wanted to forge my own Damascus knives and swords. But I can't now. I was meaning that I would buy blanks or pre-forged steel and cut and profile the blades and stuff maybe.
 
LOL! I didn't mean make, make. I can't forge my own steel and stuff even though that was my plan when I reached this age and retired. I always wanted to forge my own Damascus knives and swords. But I can't now. I was meaning that I would buy blanks or pre-forged steel and cut and profile the blades and stuff maybe.

I stand by my stated position. :cool::thumbsup:
 
I got to go agains the grain here and suggest you have a look into the latest RUIXIN model. It is called RUIXIN PRO RX-008. Have a look at it in YouTube. It is a guided system that allows for infinite adjustment of the angle (does not have fixed slots like other guided systems). It is robust, cheap, many grits available (wetstone and diamond). The benefit of this system over others I have seen is that you clamp the device to the table so it is rigid and solid, then you can flip the knife without unclamping it, so the angle stays the same as you do either side and progress through the different grits.

You can source from China no problem, the price is going to surprise you, I promise.

I also own a sharpmaker and while it is ok for maintaining edges and quick touch ups, any reprofiling or heavy sharpening (think ruined edge) takes foreeeeeeeeeeeeever. Since I bought the RUIXIN I only use the Sharpmaker for quick touch ups and serrated edges, but I no longer sharpen straight edges on it.

Mikel
Also got a question considering getting ruixin system from gearbest how are the stones? Are they any good or if I buy it would I have to buy new stones right away?
 
So
youtube is a great learning resource...plus check some of the threads in the "sticky" section at the top of this forum page. Some have embedded videos in them, such as B Gentry's "7 secrets of sharpening".

You should be fine with the ultra sharp stone, but the Norton stone will make future reprofiling of very dull knives easier.

Start learning with inexpensive kitchen knives if you have some at home. Paring knives are excellent for that purpose and can be bought for just a few bucks...and cheaper at flea markets and such. They will make the learning process easier and less painful.

Another thought is that you can buy or make a cheap set of angle guides so you know what a 15 or 20 degree angle looks like when you put the blades to your hones.

It's not rocket science. A little bit of effort will be greatly rewarded.

Check out some of this guy's videos to learn basic techniques. Especially some of his older videos where he goes slowly back and forth, one stroke at a time. They will help you understand the process and you'll see that he gets better himself as time goes on:

https://www.youtube.com/user/stefanwolf88/videos
Sorry for bothering you again but can't find the specific ultrasharp diamond stone there is one made by ultrasharp that's 300/1200 but there are other vendors that are a bit cheaper and are 400/1000 which I think I want more
 
So

Sorry for bothering you again but can't find the specific ultrasharp diamond stone there is one made by ultrasharp that's 300/1200 but there are other vendors that are a bit cheaper and are 400/1000 which I think I want more

I think the 400/1000 only comes in the interrupted version. You can find the 300/1200 and 400/1200 though.
 
I think the 400/1000 only comes in the interrupted version. You can find the 300/1200 and 400/1200 though.

The one I saw was continuous under the following description. (I have the interrupted surface 400/1000 that I got from CKTG a few years back.) I don't have any info on the other versions though I know @HeavyHanded has referenced his in 300 / 1200.
Ultra Sharp XLS Diamond Sharpening Stone (2-sided) - Coarse/Extra Fine
 
Please ready bgentrys secret of sharpening post, sticky in this forum.

With very little experience but a good grounding in the theory you will be able to get an acceptable edge. Also view some you tube. Burrfection (not everyone’s cup of tea) does a decent job of showing the process - look at his earlier videos.

The biggest mistake most people make when starting out sharpening is assuming that moving to a finer stone will get their knife sharper. Your knife must be sharp off the first stone you use... Read up and then practise. Also make sure you buy stones recommended here rather than a no name off amazon.

good luck
 
So I've recently started liking knives and things like thay, I have a couple high quality laser aslo but wanted to get into knives. I was wondering about a knife sharpener for my two blades one is a Benchmade I got from a friend and other just a normal fixed blade I think it's a lmf2 and pretty much wanted to see what your guys reccomdations? I've heard good things about the sharp maker plus diamond rods for 110 or should I go something low end like the lanksy kit? I've also heard the bet kind of gets it all done is the edge pro Apex 3 kit I'm willing to spend the and 200 dallor for it if it's reallyw jt also should I just get a stone and start from there? Thanks for any help guys I'm a pretty much just trying to get into this hobby ;)
Sorry i'm late to the game op. One word, Three letters, KME. Nuf said. Perfect grinds and laser sharp edges EVERY time even for a beginner. I speak with experience and have used stones only to reduce knives to butter knives until the wife got me one for the holidays. after practicing on a couple of kitchen knives I was producing scary sharp hair shaving edges and with the addition of the KME lapping film kit I soon mastered mirror edges. Not trying to shill here I'm just telling it how it worked for me.
f2uHHYA.jpg
 
Sorry i'm late to the game op. One word, Three letters, KME. Nuf said. Perfect grinds and laser sharp edges EVERY time even for a beginner. I speak with experience and have used stones only to reduce knives to butter knives until the wife got me one for the holidays. after practicing on a couple of kitchen knives I was producing scary sharp hair shaving edges and with the addition of the KME lapping film kit I soon mastered mirror edges. Not trying to shill here I'm just telling it how it worked for me.
f2uHHYA.jpg
I see it's a bit expensive for their kit though is it really worth? Compared to a cheaper alternative for a beginner
Thanks for responding
 
The one I saw was continuous under the following description. (I have the interrupted surface 400/1000 that I got from CKTG a few years back.) I don't have any info on the other versions though I know @HeavyHanded has referenced his in 300 / 1200.
Ultra Sharp XLS Diamond Sharpening Stone (2-sided) - Coarse/Extra Fine
Yup found it will probably buy it comes with stand for only 52 not bad I think, is 1000 grit high enough for a Shar edge though or should I go 400/1200grit what are your thoughts?
 
Please ready bgentrys secret of sharpening post, sticky in this forum.

With very little experience but a good grounding in the theory you will be able to get an acceptable edge. Also view some you tube. Burrfection (not everyone’s cup of tea) does a decent job of showing the process - look at his earlier videos.

The biggest mistake most people make when starting out sharpening is assuming that moving to a finer stone will get their knife sharper. Your knife must be sharp off the first stone you use... Read up and then practise. Also make sure you buy stones recommended here rather than a no name off amazon.

good luck
Yea for sure will read much reviews and videos I think starting free hand will be much more satisfying and also if I later on want a guided system I can buy it later thanks for the reccomdations ;)
 
Yup found it will probably buy it comes with stand for only 52 not bad I think, is 1000 grit high enough for a Shar edge though or should I go 400/1200grit what are your thoughts?

Any of the grits we've discussed are enough for a sharp edge. A coarse edge can be very sharp. You have to understand what sharp means and that will take your doing some homework both in reading the threads we recommended and checking videos.

For general work and kitchen use, you can go anywhere from a coarse edge to a fine edge depending on the material you are cutting and your own preferences.

1000 grit is more than adequate for most normal uses. I don't polish my edges or strive for artistic perfection. I am a practical user / sharpener.

Spend some time doing research. It will pay back dividends.
 
Any of the grits we've discussed are enough for a sharp edge. A coarse edge can be very sharp. You have to understand what sharp means and that will take your doing some homework both in reading the threads we recommended and checking videos.

For general work and kitchen use, you can go anywhere from a coarse edge to a fine edge depending on the material you are cutting and your own preferences.

1000 grit is more than adequate for most normal uses. I don't polish my edges or strive for artistic perfection. I am a practical user / sharpener.

Spend some time doing research. It will pay back dividends.
I see I am mostly sharping for practically, camping and daily use as well as want a nice looking edge, thanks for the help though, will be purchasing today or tomorrow for sure
 
I see it's a bit expensive for their kit though is it really worth? Compared to a cheaper alternative for a beginner
Thanks for responding
Honestly it was the best investment I made in relation to knives. The lapping film kit is not necessary and is more for aesthetics than function. I didn't pick one up until I mastered raising the perfect wire ber with the DMT stones. That took about 3 crappy kitchen knives and Once you make the small investment your set for a very long time. I have sharpened close to a hundred knives ranging from crap to super steels and my DMT stones show no sign of slowing down. Buy once Cry once ;):thumbsup:. If you do get one "and you should" I recommend adding a 100 Grit stone to your order. The 100 Grit stone is used for reprofiling extremely dull and chipped blades thus saving more life for the 140 grit stone that comes standard with the kit.
dUQmNUV.jpg
 
Honestly it was the best investment I made in relation to knives. The lapping film kit is not necessary and is more for aesthetics than function. I didn't pick one up until I mastered raising the perfect wire ber with the DMT stones. That took about 3 crappy kitchen knives and Once you make the small investment your set for a very long time. I have sharpened close to a hundred knives ranging from crap to super steels and my DMT stones show no sign of slowing down. Buy once Cry once ;):thumbsup:. If you do get one "and you should" I recommend adding a 100 Grit stone to your order. The 100 Grit stone is used for reprofiling extremely dull and chipped blades thus saving more life for the 140 grit stone that comes standard with the kit.
dUQmNUV.jpg
I see I was gonna get into freehand from another post by buying the worksharp diamond stone with 400/1000grit double sided and start from there and buy more stones. All my knives don't really need reprofiling so I think I should be fine ;)
 
I really like how you put it simply, I want to look into freehand now as well, can you recommend like a whole set of stone so I have everything I need to sharpen and possibly reprofile a blade as well. I would like to spend not too much preferably under 150

I like to sharpen with water rather than oil. My new favorite stone is the Zandstra Foss speedskating stone which I got for under $40 shipped; if you can get one at or near that price it's a great value for a large, fast cutting, dual grit water stone.

For an oil stone the Norton JUM3 is highly regarded but I haven't used it. There are smaller, cheaper versions but I like big whetstones, especially on the coarse end.

Either of these combination stones should set you up well for a fine-grit stone. If you have or plan to get high vanadium steels a plated diamond "stone" may be best, but I find the feedback on those poor, so if not I prefer the feel of vitrified-bond ceramic stones.

What are your knives used for? Do you prefer an edge with "tooth" for slicing or more refinement for push-cutting?
 
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