Recommendation? Knife Sharpener for a beginner

A AlexSav I am guessing you got Amazon item B01FPGSZ7I or its equivalent. I think that is just a slightly smaller plate at 8"×2.5" rather than 8"×3" like B01FPI7J6O, but I don't think there is a quality difference.
 
Mr.Wizard said:
A AlexSav I am guessing you got Amazon item B01FPGSZ7I or its equivalent. I think that is just a slightly smaller plate at 8"×2.5" rather than 8"×3" like B01FPI7J6O, but I don't think there is a quality difference.
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Yea I did thanks for reassuring me, I've also bought the Norton stone with 100/320 and oil to go with it, do you think later on I should buy higher grit or is 1000 enough for a very sharp working edge?
 
Remember that the 1000 grit diamond plate will need breaking in before you get a fine edge from it. After that I suggest you try compound on a wood or denim-on-wood strop if you want more refinement. This is not identical to a finer stone but it works well and costs a lot less. You have to be careful not to round over the apex or you can get an edge that feels slippery, but do it right and it will impress you. A convenient and reliable form of diamond is the Venev "lip balm" tube from Gritomatic, but any quality compound should work.

Compound on a soft surface like denim and even wood acts a lot finer than you would think from its particle size, because the particles sink into the surface and only their points contact the blade. If you get diamond compound I suggest no finer (smaller) than 14µm to follow your UltraSharp, and maybe 5µm (on a separate strop) if you want even more refinement after that.
 
Mr.Wizard said:
Remember that the 1000 grit diamond plate will need breaking in before you get a fine edge from it. After that I suggest you try compound on a wood or denim-on-wood strop if you want more refinement. This is not identical to a finer stone but it works well and costs a lot less. You have to be careful not to round over the apex or you can get an edge that feels slippery, but do it right and it will impress you. A convenient and reliable form of diamond is the Venev "lip balm" tube from Gritomatic, but any quality compound should work.

Compound on a soft surface like denim and even wood acts a lot finer than you would think from its particle size, because the particles sink into the surface and only their points contact the blade. If you get diamond compound I suggest no finer (smaller) than 14µm to follow your UltraSharp, and maybe 5µm (on a separate strop) if you want even more refinement after that.
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I'm sorry but I'm confused I understand breaking it in but compound for what, I thought you CNA use this with water?
 
I should have separated those sentences. The compound (diamond or otherwise) is used on your knives, not the Ultra Sharp plate; that would be a disaster!

You "crayon" on a thin layer of compound to a piece of wood (even a paint stir stick will do) and use this to strop the edge of the knife. It takes the place of a finer stone, but you can only use edge-trailing strokes or you'll just cut into the strop.
 
Mr.Wizard said:
I should have separated those sentences. The compound (diamond or otherwise) is used on your knives, not the Ultra Sharp plate; that would be a disaster!

You "crayon" on a thin layer of compound to a piece of wood (even a paint stir stick will do) and use this to strop the edge of the knife. It takes the place of a finer stone, but you can only use edge-trailing strokes or you'll just cut into the strop.
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Ah I see, that's makes much more sense but wouldn't the 1000 grit be enough for a good edge? Or do I truly need a much higher grit one?
 
Yes, once broken in the 1000 grit should be give you a very good edge for many things. The compound is only if you want more refinement, which you will want for a wood carving knife for example.
 
Mr.Wizard said:
Yes, once broken in the 1000 grit should be give you a very good edge for many things. The compound is only if you want more refinement, which you will want for a wood carving knife for example.
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Ok I see and how do you break in a stone like use it with a cheap knife first and like try to sharpen it or something? Thanks for the help so far
 
It will break in with normal use, and the process should not damage your good knives unless there is something wrong with the plate. If you feel distinct lumps on the plate—little blobs of diamonds—do not yet use the plate on a brittle steel or you risk chipping the edge. Hopefully you get a plate without that flaw, but even that should break in with use.
 
Mr.Wizard said:
It will break in with normal use, and the process should not damage your good knives unless there is something wrong with the plate. If you feel distinct lumps on the plate—little blobs of diamonds—do not yet use the plate on a brittle steel or you risk chipping the edge. Hopefully you get a plate without that flaw, but even that should break in with use.
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Allright nice thanks will tell you when I get the stones and stuff thanks for the help it's been great so far, honestly would have probably gone with the lanksy system had it not been you and blue thanks a lot I really do want to try freehand ;)
 
Mr.Wizard said:
It will break in with normal use, and the process should not damage your good knives unless there is something wrong with the plate. If you feel distinct lumps on the plate—little blobs of diamonds—do not yet use the plate on a brittle steel or you risk chipping the edge. Hopefully you get a plate without that flaw, but even that should break in with use.
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Hello Mr.Wizard got my stones today gonna start trying to learn slowly and steadily
 
I don't believe in One True Way to sharpen. Each of these guys has a different style, and they contradict each other sometimes, but you can learn from each of them. I have my own concept for easy freehand sharpening which I'll illustrate soon.

Joe Calton

Jon Broida

Murray Carter
 
Mr.Wizard said:
I don't believe in One True Way to sharpen. Each of these guys has a different style, and they contradict each other sometimes, but you can learn from each of them. I have my own concept for easy freehand sharpening which I'll illustrate soon.

Joe Calton

Jon Broida

Murray Carter
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Thanks for the videos will be watching them, having issues with the ultrasharp stone sort of made a post about it so sharped a new sort of I guess decently sharp and then the diamond stone got these dark dots not sure why but gonna ask for replacement cuase I think it's the diamonds coming off not sure again though
 
Mr.Wizard said:
Here are some more videos dealing with specific issues.

Really stubborn burrs

Bolsters

Carving geometry
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Also great news it's getting sharp enough to cut paper diagonally. Which is the sharpness I'm looking so yea. Otherwise will keep improving my skills thanks for the help really it's done a ton
 
AlexSav said:
What about the edge pro kit specifically the Apex 3 kit for 225 is it worth the cost they do provide lifetime warranty and as well as I've heard amazing reviews saying it's worthe very penny but is it worth for a beginner to invest that much up front?
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YES....it's worth it. I bought one early on, and I've used it for perhaps seven yrs or so. It's a great machine and it doesn't need a warranty...there's nothing to break...IMO..
...and USE the sharpie. it's guarantees that the angle is correct...
 
Eli Chaps said:
Your knives will need re-profiling. It is commonly associated with changing angles and such but it also means changing the factory grind to yours.
Factory grinds are notoriously uneven but even the best will be difficult to match precisely with your method. I always look at my first few sharpenings of a knife as profiling.
The 400 might be a little slow for some steels but will get you there eventually. The 300 will be quicker but I'd still recommend keeping a truly course stone in consideration. I would really encourage you to right now focus on lower grits rather than higher grits.
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Very well-written...
Many brand new expensive knives are hand-ground, so that the bevel on one side of the edge doesn't exactly match the grind angle on the other side... Of course, you see this immediately with the Sharpie. If I need to change the edge angle, I always use a rough diamond stone to get the job roughed out quickly. Then you can regrind the angle on one side or the other so that they match...makes future sharpenings VERY easy.
I follow up with CONGRESS MOLDMASTER stones(reco'd by pro-sharpeners) in ~grits of 220, 320 or 400, 600, and then 1000. There is no need to use higher grits unless you are after polished "mirror" edges, which often don't provide a better slicing cut. Many steels prefer a rougher edge for common work like cardboard boxes or attempting to "break" the skin on a tomato. Many production knives, even expensive ones, are often no higher than a 600 grit...
I use an EdgePro Apex machine and have for yrs, and it does a great job. I can easily take polishing grits or tapes up to around 6000 grit for a nice mirror polish..but seldom see the need unless I'm gifting the knife to a friend.
I don't hand-sharpen...I've tried and failed many times...so I have the machine which is "perfect."
Best of luck, and take your time..and have fun...
 
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Sonnydaze said:
YES....it's worth it. I bought one early on, and I've used it for perhaps seven yrs or so. It's a great machine and it doesn't need a warranty...there's nothing to break...IMO..
...and USE the sharpie. it's guarantees that the angle is correct...
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Yea I heard it was good but decided to try freehand and today was an exciting day I got my blade sharp enough with trying combination of methods to cut paper diagonally it was so sharp in fact while inspecting the blade I cut myself lol I'm so happy today though I just wanted it this sharp, no need to go father for me. I did it with 1000 Girt and I think I'm doing okay for my fourth ever knife shapren, I might get the edge pro system in the future though
 
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